Anthony’s Italian Deli has been tucked away at the very back of one of the least appealing strip malls on Florida Boulevard near Oak Villa (and you have to try to win that distinction) for an unbelievable thirty years—it is indeed hard to believe that the weathered particle board sign visible from the service road is for a business that is still there. Look past the ancient music shop and the storefront church, and there sits one of the best-kept secrets in Baton Rouge.

Anthony’s doesn’t have the epic scope of Pocorello’s or the urbane charm of Marcello’s, but what it does have is a well-honed lineup of signature sandwiches. For the classicist, I recommend the Italian Lover (or if there are two of you, the Italian Deli Special, its upsize sister sandwich)—pressed Genoa salami, capicola, ham, mortadella (think fatty handmade bologna and then try to erase any terrible connotations that might conjure) with provolone and marinated onions.  Ever conscious of my deli cocktail, I got the marinated peppers from the Godfather added and that hit this pressed wonder out of the park.

The pepperoni pizza poboy is exactly what you’d think: layers of melted mozzarella and sliced pepperoni with a generous slathering of their homemade tomato sauce on a pressed poboy, perfect for any kid or picky eater. The meatball poboy, however, is a bit of a surprise. The delicately spiced savory meatballs sliced into coins soak up the sauce and the cheese and give you the decadence you want when you think “meatball poboy,” without the unwieldiness and heaviness that most incarnation of this classic involve.

We got a frozen lasagna for that evening ($22 and two-meals’ worth) but ended up that evening at a barbeque of a friend who has also become recently acquainted with Anthony’s. I mentioned the fatty rolls of pancetta I spied in the deli case and he pulled one out of his fridge. Pancetta is perhaps the most rarified of the deli meats, salt cured pork belly that hits you with its rich saltiness followed by a secondary signature of nutmeg and fennel. We polished off half the package before we got the bright idea of setting the delicate slices on the grill for a few seconds, and lo, the heavens opened up and the angels were dispatched to congratulate us on attaining enlightenment. Melodramatic description, I know, but wow, amazing stuff. The kind of food that gives you a reason to go on. 

Details. Details. Details.

Both in Baton Rouge, La:
Pocorello’s Casa d’Itailia
12240 Coursey Boulevard, Suite A-11
(225) 293-3737  •  pocorellos.net

Anthony’s Italian Deli
10248 Florida Boulevard
(225) 272-6817 • anthonysdeli.webs.com

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