Regional Cuisine
Kolaches Carefully Considered - Page 3
Written by Alex V. Cook
Ambrosia Bakery
1 location
8546 Siegen Lane
Baton Rouge, La
(225) 763-6489
ambrosiabakery.com
It seems an act of hubris to have a favorite item at Ambrosia, the Baton Rouge area’s premier bakery. The cake samples on offer will undoubtedly leave the idle browser lost in a dreamland of fondant and doberge, but I look past the parade of confectionery for a little warming tray full of foil-wrapped savory pastries, hoping I got there before they are all gone. I will stand in any restaurant in the city and tell you Ambrosia’s sausage, cheese and jalapeño biscuits are the best thing to eat in Baton Rouge.
Should the food gods fail to smile upon this hapless servant and all the biscuits are gone, Ambrosia’s take on the kolache, or kolachy, as they spell it, will do in a pinch. First, the sausage is a smoked sausage link bisected lengthwise so you experience that crunchy snap of the skin as well as the salty, moist interior of the sausage. For many of the kolaches I’ve had, including some of those listed above, the sausage used is perfunctory, one that comes in a pack by the hot dogs; this one, on the other hand, tastes like it comes fresh from a morning in the smoker. The dough wrapped around it is the best of both worlds, crispy and buttery on the outside, baked to the edge of a crustiness yet still fluffy in the middle, soft enough to absorb some of the grease of the sausage. “Absorb the grease” is not a term I would usually use in a positive food review, but it is a key reason why Ambrosia’s kolaches reign supreme.
Truthfully, any donut shop kolache will do when you have a certain pang that needs to be grounded by a quick breakfast choice. A kolache is heavy, sure, and not very good for you in a nutritional sense. I however take a holistic view of wellness; we are body and spirit, a corporeal dough shell around our savory, fatty souls, and if you need to get right with that kind of wellness, a kolache might be your best option.
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