The Alsace region of France produces some of the finest quality white wines in the world. So a recent visit to Baton Rouge by Jean Trimbach, twelfth-generation steward of the Alsatian winery Maison Trimbach, was a rare chance to experience some of the world's best rieslings, introduced by a man whose family has been creating them for almost four hundred years. In town to host an evening wine dinner at Juban's Restaurant with food pairings by chef Jaime Hernandez, Trimbach also found time to bring several examples of the family's wines to lunch at the French restaurant Maison Lacour. There, over Crawfish Bisque a l'Orange and sautéed scallops, Trimbach discussed his family's approach to winemaking, the unique terroir of the Alsatian region, and the string of great vintages that the recent years have produced.

Sandwiched between the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River to the east, separating France from Germany, Alsace produces grapes of fresh acidity and pure, defined fruit. The local microclimate and limestone soils—the area was once an ancient seabed—impart a distinctive minerality to the traditional, dry Alsace-style wines created here. Varietals such as riesling, pinot gris and gewurztraminer excel under these conditions. "At Trimbach we consider ourselves guardians of the style," observed Jean Trimbach, whose brother, Pierre, has served as head winemaker since 1979. These are great food wines—dry, elegant, balanced, long-lived, with a firm acidity that makes them natural matches for a wide variety of cuisines. The fact that Trimbach wines are served in all twenty-six of France's Michelin 3-star restaurants stands as testimony.

Riesling is prominent in Trimbach's portfolio, and unlike many rieslings produced in other regions, Trimbach's 2008 Riesling ($20) is dry, with higher alcohol content. Fermentation in stainless steel vats—the Trimbachs do not believe wood influence adds anything to their wines—allows pure expressions of clean fruit flavors—citrus and white peach—to shine through. With a firm acidity and clean finish, Trimbach's Riesling is a natural match for marinated, grilled or sauced fish. It is ready to drink now, but will continue to develop for five to ten more years.

A special treat was the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2002 ($54). Produced only in years in which grapes are judged to be of high enough quality, this wine is never released until the Trimbach family deems it ready. These grapes are sourced from vines more than forty-five years old, handpicked as late as possible to achieve maximum ripeness. The result: a complex, beautifully balanced wine exhibiting spicy fruit flavors, a honeyed note, and an exceptional tension between fruit and acidity. Vinified to complete dryness, this wine shows both power and balance, and will age well for many years to come. Fish, poultry and veal are ideal accompaniments.

The Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2008 ($16) is an elegant, medium-bodied wine when enjoyed as an aperitif, and an excellent accompaniment with seafood—particularly oysters. Fresh floral notes, and again that characteristic crispness, make this a great introduction to Trimbach wines.

The Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve ($24) is a favorite, that retains a hint of color derived from the pinot gris grapes from which it is made. Jean Trimbach noted that the Pinot Gris of Alsace is different from its northern Italian cousin—pinot grigio—after centuries of mutation. The Pinot Gris betrays a rich tree fruit character—peach, pear—with hints of citrus. This 2007 is perfect for drinking now, and will show well for many more years, which is difficult to say for its pinot grigio counterparts. Try it with Thanksgiving dinner and you'll not be disappointed.

Gewütztraminer, which translates to "spicy traminer," is just that. Trimbach's Gewürztraminer 2008 ($22.99) is a ripe, luscious wine bursting with exotic spice and citrus notes. Fermented to retain as much natural acidity as possible, it will pair well with flavorsome Indian, Thai, and Louisiana cuisines; salmon, and strong cheeses, too.

In the Baton Rouge area, look for Trimbach wines—easily recognizable in their tall, 'Flute d'Alsace'-style bottle—at Calandro's Supermarket's Government Street location, Martin Wine Cellar on Perkins Road, and Roux Wine and Spirits on Airline Highway in Prairieville.

Steve Staples has been encouraging the enjoyment of wine in Baton Rouge for twenty-five years. By day a rep with Glazer’s Companies of Louisiana, by night Steve teaches several wine appreciation classes as part of the LSU Leisure Classes program. More information on Steve's classes HERE.

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