August, 2011. If all you know is pinot grigio, look again.

Italy is one of the largest exporters of wine in the world, although only a few of its varietals make it to American shores in any quantity. But for centuries, more than two hundred different varieties of grapes have been cultivated in twenty regions ranging from the far north right to the southern tip of Sicily. Although times have changed since the days of chianti in a wicker basket, the majority of Italian wine purchased in America is still accounted for by pinot grigios and a few Tuscan reds. Many of the less-well-known wines of Southern Italy offer great value precisely because of their lack of notoriety.

One such wine is the Aglianico, grown on the volcanic slopes of the Monte Vulture. It was the Greeks that brought the Aglianico grape to the region of Basilicata, where it has evolved to become one of the major red grapes. It can be made into Vecchio (aged three years), or enjoyed young after just a year of aging. Such a wine is the Bisceglia Terra di Vulcano Aglianico del Vulture ($16), made to retain fresh berry aromatics. A great table wine that pairs well with most pasta dishes or grilled meats.

Another great red varietal of the south is the Negroamaro, most notably found in the region of Apulia (the heel of the Italian boot). Leone de Castris specializes in traditional Apulian wines and their Salice Salentino Rosso ($15) is redolent with aromas of dark berry with spiced notes. Great with roasted meats.

Also found in Apulia is the Primitivo grape, which is known as Zinfandel in America. It is named "primitivo" because of its early ripening, that tends to result in a strong, extracted body and high alcohol content. The Cantele Primitivo ($12) is a great value, and can be enjoyed with everything from grilled meats to red tomato based pasta. A real crowd pleaser.

On the lighter side from the island of Sicily comes the Nero d'Avola grape, the recent popularity of which can be explained by the supple nature of the wines it produces, and its value for money. The Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Nero d'Avola ($13), sourced high in the mountains of Sicily, is one of the most popular found in the market. Rich with ripe berry flavors that match beautifully with dishes such as red pastas, meatballs, eggplant. Or just order with pizza!

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