Photo by Lucie Monk
Today in the test kitchen we've got a controversial idea sourced from Le Meritage in New Orleans: a steak topping.
Steak is such a tricky beast. Even once you've nailed down the perfect method (for me, with the premium cuts, that involves searing in my cast-iron before finishing off in the oven), it's difficult to stray from the simplicity. A great steak dinner gives much credit to the meat itself. Why ruin it with a heavy sauce or excessive seasoning? It's like watching Casablanca in IMAX 3D.
Or is it? I'm of the mindset that a sauce or garnish—with a confident but not overpowering flavor—can work wonderfully as an accessory. Not a strict necessity...just a new flavor to change up an expected taste.
And here we come to pinot jam. More of a compote than a jam, this topping consists of red onions caramelized, then cooked down further with red wine, brown sugar, bay leaf, cracked black pepper, and a pinch of cloves. The cloves are key, elevating the familiarity of red onion to a forkful more exotic, more heady than you could imagine.
The silky, darkly spiced onions slid over the surface of my steak as I scooped each bite into my mouth. It became a game, to ensure each bite of steak had the perfect balance of the plump, deep purple onions. I think that brand of calculation points toward an excellent addition to a meal, one that you want to make the most of.
Just parcel it out carefully.
You can check out my side dish (creamy mashed potatoes with a turnip puree) at My Weekend's Cooked. And I've got my adaptation of Le Meritage's recipe below (in which only the portions are changed.)
Pinot Jam from Le Meritage
Yield: 1—2 cups.
Chef's note: This is a savory jam with a slight sweetness that's a perfect accompaniment to filet mignon, other steaks and chops, lamb and venison.
Ingredients:
3 large red onions, cut into thin strips
1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground black peppercorns
Pinch of cloves
Pinch brown sugar
1 bay leaf
½ bottle pinot noir
Method:
Caramelize onions in olive oil until brown. Add remaining ingredients. Reduce until thick and add brown sugar to taste.
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