Beach Like a Local in Gulf Shores

White sand beaches are rare. Growing up in Mobile, I did not realize how fortunate I was to live just an hour away from the soft, snowy shores of the Alabama Gulf Coast. A self-proclaimed beach bum, I spent much of my early adult life traveling the globe in search of the elusive perfect beach, but even the most famous beaches couldn’t live up to Bama’s powdery shore and the memories I made there hunting for sand crabs, building castles, and surfing gentle waves. Since relocating to Baton Rouge twenty years ago, I still keep a beach chair and a swimsuit in my trunk, ready for any beachside opportunity, though these days, making the four-hour trek with two young boys in tow requires a little more planning. 

Leaving a bit early on a Friday afternoon allows an opportune dinner stop around the three-hour mark at The Original Oyster House, a local favorite for its elevated dining room overlooking Mobile Bay. The kids burn off some steam at the onsite playground while I anxiously await my broiled seafood platter served with hot drawn butter and cheese grits and topped off with a trip to the well-stocked salad bar. With a whole frozen key lime pie bagged up to-go, we’re back on the road till we reach the Piggly Wiggly in Foley, where we pick up quality craft beer provisions for the week, including many labels not available in Louisiana. If the kids are cranky, pass up the traditional Loxley exit in lieu of the new Baldwin Beach Express (from I-10 exit 49), which is a straight shot to Orange Beach and saves you fifteen to twenty minutes for only a $3.50 toll. 

The beers and key lime pie (best consumed on the deck or balcony that first evening) are just the start of a surprisingly long food itinerary that has become high tradition where my family is concerned. I have had a lifetime to refine this list, and it is as important to my experience as white sands and a wind-resistant beach umbrella. Here, dear reader, is that list, along with a few other recommendations from an insider …

Beach Eats

A memorable meal at the beach does not have to break the bank. Sea-n-Suds, a family-friendly restaurant in the heart of Gulf Shores, teeters on tall pilings overlooking the beach. My family has been coming here so long that Linda, who has worked there since I was a child, still greets me with a smile and a “How’s your Mama?” This no-frills restaurant is known for inexpensive fried seafood and booze paired with a one-of-a-kind view over the ocean. There is something about the oyster sandwich served on a mayo-doused hamburger bun that keeps me craving it year-round. sea-n-suds.com.

For a more upscale dining experience, Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina provides elevated coastal cuisine by James Beard-nominated chef Bill Briand. The restaurant is divided into a casual dockside lower level and the more sophisticated upstairs dining room, which showcases locally sourced seafood and produce in a romantic setting. Foodies should take note of their Southern Grace dinner series, which features award-winning Southern guest chefs in a benefit for the Southern Foodways Alliance. fishersobm.com.

While dining out seems a requisite part of an enjoyable beach vacation, picking up provisions for a beach picnic allows more time in the sun and sand. And let’s face it, once you’ve hauled down enough gear to outfit a battalion, claimed your stretch of sand, and firmly planted your house-sized umbrella, no one wants to disassemble camp for lunch. This is nothing that a game of rock-paper-scissors can’t remedy. The loser makes a take-out run to Bravo Tacos, which serves up traditional Mexican-style street tacos—your choice of meat, seafood, or vegetarian options—out of the side of an unassuming gas station. Their daily liquado, a refreshing Latin American-style drink made fresh with seasonal fruit, is also not to be missed. bravotacos.net.

For something truly unique, it doesn’t get any better than steamed Royal Red shrimp from Lartigue’s Fresh Seafood Market. Royal Reds, as the locals call them, live in the cold, deep ocean waters well off the coast and are pinkish-red, as suggested by their colorful moniker. Sweeter and pricier than traditional shrimp, they are well worth the splurge. Pick up a couple of pounds and have them steamed while you peruse the market for other frozen seafood specialties and side items. Buyer beware—they only accept cash! lartiguesseafood.com/menu.asp.

(Left to right, top to bottom) Royal Reds; photo: Darlene Adams Rowland. The Gulf; courtesy of The Gulf. Dining at Cosmos restaurant; photo: Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism. Fisher's dining room and cocktail; photo by Angie Mosier. Shrimp entree at Cobalt; photo: Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism.

Early afternoon is the perfect time to dine out; crowds are light and there are deals to be had. Two of Orange Beach’s best restaurants, Cosmo’s and Cobalt, both offer a daily afternoon happy hour from 3 pm to 5 pm with libations and appetizers on special. Both restaurants also offer consistently delicious dinner menus with live music for al fresco dining most evenings. Cosmo’s masters the impressive task of offering a widely varied menu of traditional seafood entrees, daily specials including a savory cheesecake, and a full lineup of sushi rolls at decent prices. Although it does not feature a view, Cosmo’s outdoor patio and bar has a fun atmosphere and is popular with locals. The adjoining Maggie’s Bottle and Tail also provides a diversion while waiting for your table with its combination gift shop for dog lovers-and-package store with wine and high-gravity craft beers for purchase. cobaltrestaurant.net; cosmosrestaurantandbar.com. 

For a laid-back spot with an ocean view, head to The Gulf. The industrial-looking, beachfront bar made from reclaimed shipping containers doesn’t look like much, but once inside, the one-of-a-kind bar evokes the feel of an exclusive South Beach club with plush white beach furniture strewn about the sand. Their seasonal menu features a rotating selection of sandwiches, salads, and small plates highlighting farm-fresh produce and Gulf seafood in interesting preparations along with a taco bar. Specialty cocktails, like fresh fruit mojitos and pineapple-infused vodka, make for fine boat-watching beverages as the vessels depart from the nearby harbor. thegulf.com.

Entertainment

While the main attraction is the beautiful, sun-kissed beaches, those who are not satisfied simply to down margaritas and listen to the surf have plenty of diversions available to them. 

Gulf State Park is a valuable resource for a more active vacation, with miles of hiking and biking trails, tennis courts, a golf course, a public fishing pier, a zip line, and a lake with kayak and paddle board rentals. For closer encounters with sea life, there are countless charter companies offering deep-sea fishing excursions and glass-bottom boat rides. The Gulf Coast is also home to several high-quality championship golf courses including the more reasonably priced Gulf State Park course. alapark.com/gulf-state-park.

A day trip to nearby Dauphin Island makes for a novel adventure. The Mobile Bay Ferry transports cars and walk-on passengers between the two pre-Civil War era forts that historically protected Mobile Bay. Travel west from Orange Beach to catch the ferry; arrive early to secure a spot as cars begin to line up well in advance of the stated departure time. Once on the island, The Estuarium located at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab provides an up-close look at the native marine life. The fourteen-mile barrier island has also been recognized as one of the top four spots nationwide for viewing spring bird migrations, and its Audubon Bird Sanctuary features 137 acres of marsh and beachfront hiking trails. disl.org/estuarium.

For shorter stays, the mainland offers sufficient entertainment prospects. If you are a parent, a visit to The Track is most likely in your future. This kids’ mecca packs miniature golf, bumper cars, go-karts, carnival rides, and an arcade into one frenzied location. Tag on a meal at nearby kid-friendly LuLu’s, located on the Intracoastal Waterway, whose long restaurant wait times are tempered by the sandy play area that occupies the kids. Further down the canal, The Wharf is a mixed-use development that includes condos, shops, restaurants, a movie theatre, and a Ferris wheel. It’s a handy catch-all for groups wanting an excursion that allows everyone to do their own thing. The onsite open-air amphitheater attracts big-name recording artists for an intimate concert experience. gulfshorestrack.com; lulubuffett.com/gulf-shores; alwharf.com.

Nearly all local restaurants have some form of live entertainment, especially on the weekends. The most notable is the Flora-Bama Lounge & Oyster Bar situated directly on the beach at the Florida-Alabama state line. This fabled roadhouse bar also doubles as a liquor store and is popular for drawing Alabamians to procure Florida lottery tickets. The beloved lounge is kid-friendly during the day, but quickly turns to a full-on bar and spring break hot spot in the evenings. florabama.com.

The crown jewel of live music is the Hangout Music Festival, held annually, the weekend before Memorial Day. Now in its seventh year, the three-day mega-music party has quickly become one of the most coveted tickets in the nationwide summer music festival circuit. Gulf Shores also plays host to the Shrimp Festival the second weekend in October, a free open-air celebration with over three hundred vendors offering handmade arts and crafts, delectable shrimp concoctions, and multiple music stages. Book accommodations well in advance for either of these extremely popular beachside events. Otherwise, a visit in late September or early May provides all of the benefits of a mid-summer stay with lower prices and fewer crowds. hangoutmusicfest.com; myshrimpfest.com. 

(L) Beach combing at sunset. (C) The Track. Photo: Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism. (R) Gulf State Park. Photo: Gulf Shores & Orange Beach Tourism.

Accommodations

While a hotel may seem like the obvious choice for a short stay, a condo offers room to spread out and can often be a more economical pick. A plethora of local realty companies boasts an impressive selection of condos with year-round specials, but vrbo.com is my go-to for the best beach condo rentals direct from the owner. Check the listing for details like a fully stocked kitchen and high quality beds, as this can make a big difference in your vacation experience. I always opt for a smaller complex in lieu of the more modern monstrosities, as the thought of jockeying for a beachfront spot with the throng of people housed in those high-rise condos is not exactly the relaxing beach weekend I envision. If you are on a budget, consider the Gulf State Park, which offers cabin and tent camping just across the street from the beach between Gulf Shores and Orange Beach.