Image courtesy of Restaurant August.
A science guy trained in cancer and Alzheimer's research, Corey Thomas did not go to culinary school. But a lifelong passion for Louisiana cuisine eventually drew him out of the lab, and into kitchens at Commander's Palace, Shaya, and Domenica.
Restaurant August's Red Snapper Pontchartrain is an iconic Creole dish, prepared with only the freshest five ounces of local fish. As is the case with every recipe on the esteemed restaurant's menu, French technique meets locally sourced ingredients, and the attention to detail is what takes it to the next level. Tweezers come out to place lacy micro greens just so; the accompanying bearnaise is aerated to a light, buttery foam.
But ask Executive Chef Corey Thomas the real secret to the dish and he doesn’t miss a beat: “It’s the Bunny Bread.”
As far as Thomas knows, Restaurant August is the only dining institution in the city, maybe the state, with the license to use the trademarked Bunny Bread name. Instead of crisping the redfish’s skin on a hot grill—“Skin-on fish can be polarizing”—he uses a piece of the white bread, produced locally since 1966.
The secret, said the chef, is running the slice through a pasta machine, flattening and condensing its tender crumb into a thin sheet, which is then draped over the snapper, with a layer of tarragon butter bonding the two together. When the order is fired, it’s flipped bread-side down and pressed on the grill. It’s a brilliant move which creates a top crust for the firm, slightly sweet fish—and an inspired foundation upon which to pile morsels of locally sourced crab, shrimp, and oyster mushrooms, with a rich Bearnaise finishing the dish.
Creating joy at August
As executive chef, Thomas, thirty-nine, leads the August kitchen, where his team curates one of the most highly regarded tasting menus and fine dining experiences in the city, currently priced at $200 for seven courses. Despite the restaurant’s many accolades, wine awards, and haute white tablecloth and chandelier setting, he sees his job as chief officer of joy.
“I love to offer guests something they've never had before, that’s both somewhat familiar and fun,” said the Shreveport native. “Taking something to the next level makes you curious, which is a good way to feel when it comes to food. I like to remain playful with our menu. It should be an expression of joy, rather than something to take so seriously.”
Take the barbecue shrimp croustade, for instance, a cold one-bite tease that spotlights shrimp grilled over Japanese charcoal, then tossed in a thick reduction of New Orleans butter and Worcestershire-driven barbecue sauce. “It’s familiar, but different,” said the chef.
Thomas never went to culinary school. He is a science guy who pursued a career in cancer and Alzheimer’s research, all the while cooking Louisiana-style food and experimenting with different kinds of cuisine for friends and family.
Over time, he found himself feeling increasingly isolated working in a lab. “I missed the social interaction, but I also have a natural draw towards management and leadership. I like dialing into what drives people and how to keep them engaged.” Time and again, the people he fed told him he should be a chef. “I really hadn’t thought about that. But then I started considering it. I’ve always loved New Orleans culture and I was thinking about making that big move.”
Image courtesy of Restaurant August.
Chef Corey Thomas prepares a Restaurant August icon, Red Snapper Pontchartrain.
In 2012, Thomas was consulting in Denver when he decided to take a leap of faith, right into the kitchen. “When my family came to New Orleans, we always ate at Commander’s Palace. I saw that they were hiring, and I figured, why not start at the top?”
Chef Tory McPhail hired him over the phone, despite the fact that he had zero restaurant experience or training. “He asked me how I made my gumbo,” recalled the chef. “The next thing I knew, I was packing up my stuff and driving to New Orleans.”
The education that commenced was life changing. “What's more effective than learning in a great restaurant from a great chef? Working under so many talented chefs taught me different styles of cooking and management.”
Thomas joined BRG Hospitality, owned by Chef John Besh and Octavio Mantilla, in 2015, first working at Shaya, then Domenica before joining the August team four and a half years ago as executive chef.
With a new team, culture, and menu redefining Restaurant August today, Chef Thomas said he feels honored to be at the helm of a restaurant that has been so influential the past twenty-five years. To carry on the lofty standard, he works tirelessly to strike the right balance between training, empowering, and inspiring his team. And though he’s got a history of drumming in a New Orleans band, running a rock and roll kitchen isn’t his jam.
“I love Anthony Bourdain, but what he wrote about in Kitchen Confidential was of that time,” he said, referring to the uncompromising militaristic approach of the famed chef personality. “That doesn’t work now. That style of leadership used to be the norm, but from my experience, it’s not healthy. That’s not the way to drive engagement and commitment. It just doesn’t line up.”
Image courtesy of Restaurant August.
Stewarding his iconic restaurant, Thomas instead approaches his role as a craftsman with an easy-going demeanor and laser focus. “We have a lot of younger chefs on the team who are from here. I try to support them as they go on their journey, giving them the knowledge and experience they need to be successful. Hopefully they will pay that forward, helping others and creating industry change for the long term.” He went on, “Sure, there are times when we all fall short. I’ve tried dishes that didn’t quite work. But that’s part of the process. I always encourage my team to push their boundaries, try new things. If we don’t fail, we don’t learn, we don’t create.”
Does Thomas ever worry that luxury dining will fall out of favor? “People, especially in New Orleans, are leaning towards quality dining instead of more frequent meals that are lackluster,” he said assuredly. “You can spend $100 on dinner at a Mexican chain restaurant. Why not cook at home and save for a dining experience that is truly memorable?”
