Photo courtesy of Gautreau's
Chef Rob Mistry
Tucked deep within the flourishing Uptown neighborhood, Gautreau’s, the once-vacant family apothecary, has been home to generations of New Orleans families and classic Creole dishes since 1982.
In October 2023, long-time owner Patrick Singley selected for the restaurant's executive chef Rob Mistry, who has since cemented the restaurant as a top-tier Uptown destination. With his parents’ roots in Mumbai, a childhood in Charlotte, North Carolina, and cooking experience across the American South, Mistry has seen every side of the culinary world. He has staged at the Michelin-starred Alinea in Chicago, worked with Chef Sean Brock, and served as the sous chef for the esteemed Commander’s Palace for more than four years. He offers patrons an elevated, yet “approachable” menu, fusing his French technique and global cuisine with the impeccable seafood, produce and seasonings of the Gulf South.
Mistry will be appearing as the Featured Chef for Restaurant 1796's Visiting Chef Dinner during the St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival on November 13.
We reached out to Chef to hear more about his culinary background, his imaginative approach to the cherished heritage of Gautreau’s, and his plans for the upcoming festival.
How would you say your classic French training and extensive expertise have prepared you to take over cuisine at a legacy restaurant like Gautreau’s?
The restaurant has a mind of its own. It is such a special place for so many dedicated regulars. I learn from them (their likes, dislikes and expectations) as much as I've drawn on my past experiences. I'm constantly learning and revamping my techniques.
When you took over as executive chef, you mentioned that you understood the reverence that loyal New Orleanians paid to Gautreau’s history, but that you wanted to “nudge the culinary bar up” a few notches. How do you decide which traditional dishes remain untouched and which elements are ready for your global touch?
At this point, I would say the bar has been nudged. We've kept one dish exactly the same (our very classic roasted chicken) and will always feature some form of duck confit and banana split on the menu as an homage to the culinary tradition of the restaurant. However we've slowly drawn our guests further out of their comfort zone, which excites us. We always walk a balancing act—nothing too avant-garde or extraordinary—and every dish must reflect New Orleans's culinary spirit in some way. We slowly introduce new spices, flavors and techniques while letting the many traditional ingredients of New Orleans food shine.
While Gautreau’s menu reflects the story of the ever-changing city of New Orleans, it also reflects the chef. Does your South Asian heritage ever materialize in your cooking? Are there any menu items that remind you of your parents or your childhood?
I try to sneak in the flavors as much as possible. We keep a fully stocked spice cabinet and I'm constantly harassing our purveyors to stock more traditional Indian items. We use many spices and curry-making techniques in our sauces. One of my favorite dishes that reminds me of my parents is our Pompano en Papillote with Coconut Soubise, Green Chutney and lentil-stuffed zucchini. It's our take on a very traditional celebration dish, but with Gulf ingredients.
Which classic New Orleans ingredients do you find most essential to work with?
Sugar Cane Vinegar, Sugar Cane Syrup, and Zatarain's crab boil. We love making our own boudin and andouille. Gulf oysters and crab are my favorite. Mirliton, Pontchatoula green strawberries and Creole tomatoes are amongst my favorite produce items.
What is one standout dish that you bring to the table at Gautreau’s?
One of my favorite dishes is our crab cigars with cucumber broth. We take Gulf crab, dress it in a dill yogurt and roll it like a cigar inside of a sheeted-out mirliton. We then top it with Gulf tuna tartare and serve it with a chilled cucumber soup.
At Restaurant 1796's Visiting Chef Dinner, do you anticipate developing a menu that will be reminiscent of Gautreau’s? Or does an off-site event provide the opportunity to take a different approach?
We plan to collaborate as much as possible with the kitchen at the Myrtles. We will definitely keep our Gautreau's style, but would love to see how both ingredients from St. Francisville and Chef Nick's vision and team will play a role in the menu. We are very excited to visit some of our purveyors, such as St. Francisville Nursery and Maggie's Mushrooms.
Learn more about Gautreau’s enduring legacy and Chef Mistry’s imaginative cuisine at gautreausrestaurant.com.
