Courtesy of Explore Charleston, ExploreCharleston.com
Downtown Charleston at Christmas.
I fell in love with Charleston over a pistachio Chantilly-filled lemon olive oil cake at Carmella’s Café hand Dessert Bar. After muscling our way through the late-evening crowd to a table overlooking East Bay Street, I melted into the sweetness of mascarpone Swiss buttercream icing while gazing at the night-darkened historic buildings lining the busy streets outside. This was our decadent reward for driving through the grueling I-95 traffic to spend our Christmas break in South Carolina’s oldest city.
Founded in 1670 as Charles Town, this early British enclave developed into a vibrant seaport on the peninsula between the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. Like many of our country’s founding settlements, the town endured its fair share of hardships over the years, but managed to persevere. The resulting masterpiece is an impeccably preserved European city flush with the charms of a well-bred Southern lady.
I’d heard tales of Charleston’s beauty shimmering in the subtropical heat of summer, its colorful architecture mingling with white-washed church steeples as a reminder of the religious freedom upon which this “Holy City” was founded. The author Pat Conroy once said, “Wandering through its streets can be dreamlike and otherworldly, its alleyways and shortcuts both fragrant and mysterious, yet as haunted as time turned in on itself.”
I wanted to see these alleyways firsthand, but under the slanting light of a winter day, balsam wreaths and bright red bows gracing the alleys’ shopfronts and fresh garland winds its way across the banisters of wrought iron fences.
Day One: King Street, Charleston City Market, and Candle Making
After sleeping off the dregs of our long journey, my family and I set out the next morning for the Visitor’s Center on Meeting Street, where the free DASH shuttle escorts tourists on a VIP tour of downtown. King Street, the notable shopping corridor, wooed passersby with Christmas-themed storefronts and promises of last-minute gifts. We window shopped until stopping at the corner of Market Street by The Charleston Place, an expansive, five-star hotel known for its Winter Wonderland transformation during the holidays. We made our way past twinkling fir trees to the lobby, where a miniature version of the Orient Express chugged along train tracks beneath the grand staircase. Upstairs, Santa’s sleigh stood ready for jolly Old St. Nick to make his appearance and hear the deepest wishes of the city’s youngest residents. Perhaps he was the merrymaker behind the nightly snowfall over the towering Christmas tree outside.
Emerging on Market Street, we crossed over to the Charleston City Market to browse the booths in the Great Hall and adjoining open air sheds, in one of the oldest public markets in the country. Here, the vendors plied their wares, from local delicacies to woven sweetgrass baskets. The sterling silver earrings at Sea Island Jewelry caught my eye, and I left with a dangling pair detailing an intricate scaled design of one of the city’s many iron gates. Continuing along our path, we walked to the Waterfront Park for a glimpse of the famous multileveled Pineapple Fountain. In colonial times, only the wealthiest could afford the rare tropical fruit, and it was often displayed as both a symbol of status as well as warm hospitality. The fountain—an elaborate, pineapple-topped stone and bronze feature with water cascading into a welcoming, shallow pool—exudes both characteristics.
For lunch, we popped in Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit, a tiny grab-and-go eatery serving up award-winning buttermilk biscuit sandwiches stuffed with bacon and eggs or smothered in pimento cheese. The handmade biscuit business opened in 2005, when owner Carrie Morey set out to give the world a taste of the delicious biscuits made by her mother, Callie. Morey now has two eateries, a catering company, and a Butter-in-a-Box subscription plan. We then picked up an espresso at Cafecito, the “Little Cuban Café” on King Street specializing in Cuban coffees topped with a whipped, caramelized foam.
I’d heard tales of Charleston’s beauty shimmering in the subtropical heat of summer, its colorful architecture mingling with white-washed church steeples as a reminder of the religious freedom upon which this “Holy City” was founded.
Revived, we walked the short distance to St. Philip Street for our afternoon appointment at Charleston Candle Co. In 2016, Kristen Schwiers began encapsulating the aromas of Charleston into all-natural soy candles in her apartment kitchen. Her hobby blossomed from an Etsy store to a thriving brick-and-mortar business now run with her husband, Chaz, and the two are selling candles across the country. Their flagship store on St. Philip, housed in the first African-American-owned bank in Charleston, includes a backroom studio for students to create their own unique candles.
Production Assistant Jocelyn Cran-Smith set us up with trays of measuring cups and tiny whisks, then laid out an array of scents. I closed my eyes and inhaled the fragrances of sea salt, citrus, jasmine, and mimosa—each one a concentrated whiff capable of conjuring vivid images of walking on the beach or strolling through a flower garden. When I asked Cran-Smith for her suggestion, she laughed, and said, “I’ve never smelled a bad candle.” After making our selections, we stirred together the scents and hot wax, poured them over our wicks, and left them to set into the perfect memento from our time in Charleston.
We dined in style on Broad Street at The Establishment, which specializes in sustainably sourced seafood, served inside the James Gregorie House. Built in 1791, the house was taking shape the same year George Washington strolled the streets of Charleston. The Bill of Rights was also ratified that year, and its First Amendment, known as The Establishment Clause, was the inspiration behind the restaurant’s name.
Our waiter, Miller, explained that the menu changes daily, except for the legendary gnudi, a pasta with lump crab, fresh herbs, and parmesan breadcrumbs. From custom-made cocktails to elegant plates of wagyu tartare, chicken liver mousse, grouper, and duck confit, we savored the tantalizing flavors while Miller shared his favorite suggestions for touring the city.
Courtesy of Explore Charleston, explorecharleston.com.
Charleston's Marion Square at Christmas.
Day Two: South of Broad, History Lessons, and Holiday Spirit
The next morning, we headed “South of Broad” to walk the promenade along the defensive seawall, known as The Battery. The rising sun shimmered on Charleston’s harbor, and in the distance, I could just make out Fort Sumter, where shots fired on April 12, 1861 marked the beginning of the American Civil War. Residents of the nearby Edmonston-Alston House, built in 1825, would have witnessed the initial days of the war firsthand. We stepped inside the Greek Revival-style house for a Christmas tour led by Jim Ramsay, who offered us a window into life of nineteenth century Charleston. "Artifacts on display spun a tale of early America society—from both the original owner, Scottish merchant Charles Edmonston, and subsequent owner, rice farmer Charles Alston, as well as the people they enslaved, who also lived on the property.
We then strolled the town, meandering north along Meeting Street past St. Michael’s Church, where George Washington worshipped in pew No. 43 on his visit in 1791. At the Circular Church, we viewed the skull-and-crossbones markings adorning some of the city’s earliest gravesites, dating back to 1695. Across the street at the Gibbes Museum of Art, we stood for ages peering at the miniature portrait collection, marveling at the miniscule wonders exacted within each painting.
Back on the waterfront, we ventured into the South Carolina Aquarium. We were too early in the day for the Aquarium Aglow, a nightly holiday festivity of light displays and scuba-diving Santa, but we enjoyed the colorful sea life skimming through the giant tanks. The undulating octopus was a highlight, along with the sea turtle rehabilitation area.
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In a private igloo on the rooftop of Ritual’s Restaurant & Lounge, we relaxed after a long day of sightseeing. The igloos are a special winter treat, furnished with comfortable couches lined with pillows and furry blankets, and an exclusive menu of shareable plates such as a charcuterie board, beef & chicken empanadas, and truffle fries. The adults in our party enjoyed pre-dinner coquitos—Puerto Rican “nog” drinks—while the kids were served an elaborate display of steaming hot chocolate adorned in marshmallows, chocolate bars, gingerbread cookies, and more.
The evening was just getting started; from our rooftop igloo, we departed for the nineteenth century cotton warehouse-turned-Hank’s Seafood Restaurant on Hayne Street. Our waiter, Drew, went over the “star-studded” menu of scallops, grouper, mahi mahi, oysters casino, and more. When I asked for a recommendation, he honestly replied, “If it’s on the menu, it’s delicious.” In our experience, he wasn’t exaggerating.
With visions of crab cakes (arguably the best we’d ever tasted) dancing in our heads, we ended the night at the Festival of Lights at James Island County Park. A three-mile passage through more than two million lights, the experience extended well beyond a traditional drive-by light display. Inside the circular route stood an entire Santa’s Village, with a carousel, train rides, sweet treats, and holiday shopping. It was a magical dreamscape adjacent to an enchanted city that warmed our hearts during a chilly, holiday winter. charlestoncvb.com.
Disclaimer: This trip was partially funded by the Charleston Area CVB, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.
