72 Hours in the Mississippi Delta

Spend some time in the region known as 'the most Southern place on Earth.'

Ready to discover the “Birthplace of America’s Music” for yourself? Carve out seventy-two hours for exploring three cities that continue to play starring roles in the rich culture that makes Mississippi’s Delta region a place unlike any other: Clarksdale, Cleveland, and Greenwood. 

Day 1: Clarksdale

Where to Stay: Shack Up Inn. “The Ritz it Ain’t,” and therein lies the Shack Up Inn’s charm. Get into the spirit of your Delta adventure by spending the night in one of the Shack Up Inn’s series of renovated shotgun cabins, or neighboring Cotton Gin. The relaxed, homey vibe here is perfectly matched with the blues-drenched culture of the city it calls home. 

What to See and Do: Cat Head Delta Blues and Folk Art: Named for “cat head” biscuits, the “cat head” drawings of Leland, Mississippi bluesman-slash-folk artist Pat Thomas, and last but not least, animal-themed record labels, Cat Head is an iconic record store and a Clarksdale staple for all things blues and beyond. Your next stop should be the Delta Blues Museum—founded in 1979 and the world’s first blues museum. Besides, what’s a trip to Clarksdale without hearing any blues? Located right next door to the museum, Ground Zero Blues Club is an area staple that has garnered national attention. Though national acts play occasionally, the mission of the club is to showcase the chops of local Delta blues artists. Any Wednesday through Saturday, you’re guaranteed to catch some live music here. 

Where to Eat: Rest Haven serves a harmonious mix of Lebanese and Italian specialties, highlighting two groups of immigrants that have contributed significantly to the Delta’s rich cultural fabric (the menu features an interesting assortment of Southern favorites, too). With a dish for any meal of the day, Rest Haven has been doing it right since 1947. Abe’s Bar-B-Q, another long-standing Clarksdale establishment, has been family-owned since 1924. Located at the infamous Crossroads of Highways 61 and 49, this stop on the Mississippi BBQ Trail is justifiably famous for its smoked pork, beef, and hot tamales. In the heart of downtown, Yazoo Pass is an espresso bar, bistro, and bakery combo. Pop in for a coffee, or try one of their breakfast, brunch, or lunch specialties.

Day 2: Cleveland

What to do: Venture north of Cleveland to Merigold, home of McCartys Pottery, an iconic Mississippi institution since 1954. Founded by Lee and Pup McCarty, the couple has William Faulkner to thank for their early pottery success. Lee—who taught Faulkner’s daughter, Jill—sourced his clay from a ravine on the property of Rowan Oak—the Faulkner family home in Oxford. The GRAMMY® Museum Mississippi pays homage to the musical achievements of Mississippians. An interactive and celebratory experience, the museum is the South’s most technically advanced music-centric museum. Cleveland’s Historic Downtown District bristles with boutiques, clothiers, restaurants, and cafés to divert curious passers-by. 

Where to Eat: Inside the Cotton House you’ll find Delta Meat Market, an artisanal grocer and full-service restaurant run by award-winning Chef Cole Ellis. A few floors up on the rooftop is Bar Fontaine, another Ellis creation. This is the place for small plates, home-made pastas, and inspired cocktails, served with a southern European flair. The Senator’s Place, established by Senator Willie Simmons and his wife, Rosie, offers good, down-home Mississippi soul food. Airport Grocery makes a quality Mississippi tamale (tamales are another, possibly unexpected, Delta culinary mainstay) in a casual, lively setting. 

Where to Stay:  While Cleveland is close enough to Clarksdale for a day trip, Cotton House offers amenities that make an overnight stay worthwhile. Cleveland’s first boutique hotel, Cotton House blends the best of the old and new Delta to create a one-of-a-kind destination. Ninety-five guest rooms, sleek decor, beautiful amenities, and an impressive art collection featuring pieces by notable Mississippi artists, and two restaurants offering memorable dining options are all features of the hotel. 

Day 3: Greenwood

What to Do: Want to stay in? Enjoy a treatment at the lavish Alluvian Spa, or hone your culinary skills at the elite Viking Cooking School.  When you’re ready to explore, get a little lost amid the aisles of Turnrow Books, any Southern literature-lover’s dreamland. For some fresh air, mosey over to the Yazoo River Trail and Arboretum. With forty-five acres and harboring abundant wildlife, your outdoor excursion can be as relaxed, or as riveting, as you like. 

Where to Eat: Lusco’s is your Greenwood go-to for steaks and seafood. After eighty-eight years in business, the classic recipes at this old-line Italian mainstay have been perfected. What makes Lusco’s such a standout are its ever-popular sauces, dressings and marinades—some of which are even available bottled thanks to endless demand. Giardina’s is another long-standing Greenwood landmark. Since 1939 its curtained booths (a speakeasy hangover from Prohibition years) have invited diners to settle in for a private, languorous meal of Italian favorites, and superb steaks and seafood. Fan and Johnny’s is another dining option, where the black eyed pea cakes with baby greens and remoulade are a perennial favorite. A few blocks over, famous Crystal Grill has a well-earned reputation for its “mile high pies.”

Where to Stay: Conclude your Delta stay with a night at The Alluvian. This boutique hotel was developed by Viking Range founder Fred Carl, and offers guests plenty of luxurious amenities and entertainment options. 

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