More than 1,000 years ago, when buffalo herds moved southward out of the Great Plains each fall, they carved a path that would someday be followed by Native Americans of the Adai Indian Nation, and, years later, New World explorers from Spain and France. Soldiers and missionaries and merchants would follow this same trail as it wound its way between various North American settlements, eventually leading travelers to the trade hub that was Mexico City. The 2,500-mile route from the Red River Valley to the Rio Grande would be known by names such as the “King’s Highway,” the “San Antonio Trace,” and most famously, the “El Camino Real de Los Tejas”. It would be traveled by the “Father of Texas,” Stephen F. Austin, as well as other legendary figures such as Jim Bowie, Davy Crockett, and Sam Houston.
Today, the southeastern part of the trail has been transformed by a pair of highways (Hwy 6 in Louisiana and Hwy 21 in Texas), that connect the sister-cities of Natchitoches, LA, and Nacogdoches, TX. On the first weekend of May each year, the El Camino Real is returned to its mercantile roots when it hosts the longest progressive garage sale in the country.
Named the El Camino Real Sale on the Trail, this 111-mile event draws travelers with the promise of a massive open-air treasure hunt, with antiques and tchotchke dealers setting up shop in yards, roadside stands, church parking lots, and local businesses lining the entire route.
But 111 miles is a long way. So to provide a foolproof shopping strategy, we’ve built out a guide to the best of the Real, from Natchitoches to Nacogdoches—with hotspots and sidequests, and of course, restaurant recommendations fit for travelers along the King’s Highway.
Natchitoches
Shop the antique stores of Natchitoches
Shopping
In addition to the spontaneous treasures set up along Hwy 6, Louisiana’s oldest city is known all on its own as a destination for antiques and uniques. Pop into shops like Tres Bien or Gigi’s Gifts Galore & More—both of which operate on the vendor booth system, with dozens of corners and cubbies stocked with one-of-a-kind treasures. Step into Pied á Terre for more contemporarily curated specialty items—including fine antiques, Turkish rugs, and artisan soaps and other home goods. Finally, no shopping trip to Natchitoches is complete without a wander through the Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile, Louisiana’s oldest general store. Once you’ve stocked up on fine china, state-of-the-art knife sets, classic toys, and aromatherapy products—the cashier will check you out using a still-working cash register that dates from 1910.
Where to Eat
You can’t go to Natchitoches without eating a meat pie at Lasyone’s. The casual Creole eatery has been a Louisiana landmark since 1967, with a reputation built on family recipes that have won acclaim from dozens of national publications—which you’ll see framed on the walls while you eat.
Historic Detours
In Natchitoches, the Fort St. Jean Baptiste State Historic Site was once a military outpost and commercial trade center for the French in their interactions with Spanish and Native Americans in the region. Though the fort’s original location is unknown, you can tour a traditional bousillage reconstruction here. The visitor’s center recounts the story, and guides offer tours throughout the day.
A Right Turn at Robeline
On your way out of Natchitoches, there is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it little village called Robeline—where you’ll find one of the most intriguing historic sites along the “King’s Highway.” Los Adaes was once the capital of Texas, its story dating to the early 1700s, when it was established as a French mission. Later, when the Spanish took over, they designated it the administrative seat of the Texas government and home of the governor. Tour the grounds and learn more about the difficult daily life of the people who lived in this village 800 miles from the nearest Spanish supply post. On your way out, be sure to stop at Hillside Antiques off Hwy 6—a must-stop for antiquers.
Toledo Bend Lake Country
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Sunset over Toledo Bend Reservoir
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Ole Mill Store
Shopping
Entering Toledo Bend Lake Country, which is anchored by one of the best fishing lakes in the South, you’ll find a community of collectors selling their sui generis goods in several antiques malls, including Past & Present, El Camino Real Trade Center, and the 17,000 square foot Ole Mill Store in Fisher. You could spend hours digging and hunting through the dozens of booths in these massive historic buildings. If shabby chic and upcycled antiques are your vibe, the folks at Vintage Upcycle & More and Finders Keepers are known for breathing fresh, new life into old things.
On the Texas side of the lake, J&A Antiques and Collectibles is a beloved community staple—or if you’re leaning more flea than finery, you’ll hit the jackpot at the enormous markets at Nuziebell’s and By Local Shop. Selling “old, new, and in-between merchandise,” these resale hotspots offer not only antiques, but also modern goods from top manufacturers and fashion lines for pennies on the dime.
Where to Eat
A morsel of Louisiana culinary heritage, the Zwolle tamale is a mandatory Sabine parish lunch staple. Bub T’s serves some of the best, and twists on the classic such as tamale pies.
Or, just before crossing over into Texas, make a pass by Fisherman’s Galley’s daily lunch buffet, with specials like ribeye steaks and local seafood. If you push through to Milam, Texas, and you’re just looking for good down-home cooking, Martin’s Corner serves daily specials, fried seafood baskets, and one of the best burgers in the area.
Cooking demonstration in Fort Jesup State Historic Site Kitchen
Historic Detours
The Fort Jesup Historic Site marks an interesting chapter in United States history. It was built by the new country to establish law and order in what had up until then been lawless “neutral land” between Spanish Louisiana and Texas. Soldiers lived onsite at the fort, building roads, surveying the frontier, and enforcing U.S. law for nearly twenty-five years. Today, all that remains of the original compound is the kitchen, though the soldiers’ quarters have been reconstructed as a museum that features interpretive exhibits.
Stop in San Augustine
Mission Dolores State Historic Site
Add some history to your collection at the Mission Dolores State Historic Site in San Augustine, and explore the grounds from which the Spanish operated this mission in the mid 18th century. The on-site museum presents interpretive and archaeological exhibits that recount how the Spanish soldiers and priests interacted with the area’s native Ais tribe here.
While you’re in town, check a few stops off your list. There’s Texas Star Retail, which sells consignment clothing and refurbished furniture, as well as a selection of new merchandise from children’s clothes to home goods. Don’t miss Shelly Sue’s, a resale shop housed in a historic old grocery store that has risen to the designation of a true community hub.
And if you get a hankering for lunch, check out the daily specials at Tasha’s Country Kitchen—could be anything from taco salad to a fried pork chop, to all-you-can-eat fish and gator bites.
Nacogdoches
Pickup jam out front of the Old Time String Shop & General Mercantile, Nacogdoches, TX
Shopping
By the time you get to “The Oldest Town in Texas”, you’ll likely be hunting for a snazzy new (or not-so-new) suitcase to carry all your finds. If you want to settle into one spot for a couple of hours, jump down the rabbit hole at the 20,000 square foot Nacogdoches Antique Market or the 12,000 square foot Junction Antique Mall. Right off the iconic red bricked Main Street is the aptly named Brick Street Antiques & Collectibles, as is Corner Collectibles—which specializes in vintage Coca Cola, Royal Crown, and other soda branded paraphernalia. Old Pilar Street’s offerings are specially curated, with enviable displays of Venetian and Fostoria glassware, R.S. Prussia porcelain, and other collectibles. And in Nacogdoches, you can complete your treasure hunting inside historic and aesthetically inspiring venues such as the circa-1800s Fredonia Vintage House or the 1897 Victorian Fortney House, with fourteen rooms of themed collections. Then there’s the General Mercantile & Oldtime String Shop—one of Nacogdoches’s most popular attractions. The store is over a century old and sells carefully sourced old-time merchandise such as acoustic instruments, housewares, East Texas Blue Stripe pottery, woodenware, and handwoven baskets. It was once the site of Stone’s Café, where Bonnie Parker (of Bonnie & Clyde fame) used to work.
Roma’s Italian Kitchen is a downtown Nacogdoches favorite
Where to Eat
Downtown Nacogdoches has history around every turn, and you’ll find it in spades at Roma’s Italian Kitchen 6—a charming eatery offering hearty Italian classics in the restored Old Wettermark Bank Building. The building, which has lived past lives as a barber shop, a pool hall, and a drug store, sat vacant for fifty years until 2022, when local contractor Kim Crisp set about completing a historic renovation that, in turn, sparked restorations through the district. Admire the restored brickwork and salvaged woods while enjoying eggplant parmigiana, a meatball sub, or a classic Florentine pizza.
Old Stone Fort Museum
Historic Detours
Complete your adventure down the El Camino Real at one of the trail’s most significant sites—the Old Stone Fort Museum at Stephen F. Austin State University. This circa-1936 reconstruction of Antonio Gil Y’Baro’s 18th century stone house represents the first mercantile house and a seat of civil government in Nacogdoches. It has been transformed into a museum that interprets the cultural and natural history of East Texas. Currently there are special exhibits on textile traditions, including a 19th century loom, and on the King’s Road itself.
Learn more at toledobendlakecountry.com/sale-trail.
