Photo by Phillip Van Zandt.
The National Civil Rights Museum in the historic Lorraine Motel where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was fatally shot on April 4, 1968.
On the City of New Orleans train to Memphis, the patchwork blue and green landscape rolled past as the wheels picked up speed. My fellow passengers were largely veteran travelers, smartly equipped with thick blankets and pillows, and expertly maneuvering the La-Z-Boy-esque chairs into full horizontal position. As a newbie, I was too excited to sleep, instead gazing out the window until it was draped in thick black ink. Only then did I attempt to walk to the food car, hanging on for dear life every time I stepped outside to cross between cars.
I was headed to Memphis to learn about the city’s revitalization. Though other travel journalists were flying, I jumped at the chance to travel by train—my vision for the adventure centered somewhere between the Hogwarts Express and the chase in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. There were no chocolate frogs on this train, I’m afraid, but the travel experience was surprisingly more comfortable than a plane or a long drive. I luxuriated in the large, spacious seats with extra leg room and was able to bring onboard any food or liquid I wanted. The sightseer lounge offered panoramic views, and for those traveling overnight, there were even private sleeping rooms.
[Read this: Riding the Rails to Beaumont]
We rolled to a stop nearly an hour ahead of schedule. Awakened from their slumber, my fellow passengers carried their luggage outside into the evening chill and left in search of taxis and ride shares. I caught sight of the brightly lit Central Station Hotel and made my way straight toward the brick and limestone building beckoning me into its warm interior, where the evening social scene was already in full swing.
Photo by Alex Shansky.
An exhibition of Elvis's iconic jumpsuits displayed at Graceland.
I pushed through the front doors and sauntered up to the check-in counter. Above the sunken lobby bar, Eight & Sand, a neon sign pointed the way to yellow cabs and transfer buses, a nod to the building’s history as a bustling railroad station dating back to 1914. When train travel declined following World War II, the building lost its luster until a meticulous preservation effort transformed the site into a boutique hotel in 2019.
On my way to the elevator, I passed a hand-beaded portrait of soul musician Isaac Hayes created by Big Chief Demond Melancon of the Young Seminole Hunters, a Black Masking Indian group in New Orleans.
Upstairs in my room, I threw open the shades to take in the view of South Main Street carving its colorful path through town. In the distance, a ship made its way along the Mississippi River, a tableau that reminded me of home. My name flashed across the TV screen, welcoming me to iconic scenes of Memphis while curated music flowed from the speakers. I melted into the bed and fell blissfully asleep, dreaming of the Memphis skyline.
"Inside, Elvis’s signature style is on full display, from the blue and yellow peacock windows in his living room to the multicolored, fabric-lined pool room. Every space delivers a new assault to the senses: mirrors line a stairwell, red shag carpet coats the floor, walls, and even a hallway ceiling."
Day One: Rock’n’Roll
The next morning, I met my travel mates over breakfast at By the Brewery. A giant green board dominated the wall behind the counter, announcing a broad array of menu items from a smoked gouda-topped grits cake biscuit to a three-cheese-and-brisket grilled sandwich. I ended up devouring a breakfast large enough for two while chatting and admiring the adorable terrariums lining the restaurant’s windowsills.
From here, we embarked on our epic tour of Graceland—which is, of course, the storied home of rock ‘n’ roll legend Elvis Presley, but has expanded today into an entire entertainment complex, complete with tours of "The King’s" airplanes, a car museum, an Elvis career museum, two restaurants, shopping, a guest house, and a theatre. Die-hard fans can even book a “Presley for a Day” experience, including a golf cart ride around the grounds and a photo-op with the resident horses. Although Elvis died in 1977, more than 600,000 visitors still make the pilgrimage to his home every year.
Photo by David Meany.
Graceland, in Memphis, TN
The shuttle dropped us at the front steps of Graceland Mansion, an actually rather modest family home overlooking immaculate grounds. Inside, Elvis’s signature style is on full display, from the blue and yellow peacock windows in his living room to the multicolored, fabric-lined pool room. Every space delivers a new assault to the senses: mirrors line a stairwell, red shag carpet coats the floor, walls, and even a hallway ceiling. The famed Jungle Room is adorned in dark colors reminiscent of a men’s cigar parlor. The effect is overwhelming, a stark contrast to the quiet outdoor pool and adjacent graves of the Presley family.
After touring Graceland, the natural next step is to eat at the Beauty Shop, Priscilla Presley’s former curl-and-dye spot. The fifties-inspired restaurant features original terrazzo floors, glass-brick-walled booths, and seats beneath hooded Belvedere hair dryers. It’s a place that lives up to its motto of “Look Good. Eat Good,” serving up a gourmet menu of truffle fries, short rib burgers, watermelon & wings, and signature cocktails in the hip Cooper-Young District of midtown.
No Memphis evening is complete without a visit to Beale Street, the city’s neon-lit, live music corridor.
Next up was Sun Studio, the legendary "birthplace" of rock’n’roll where Elvis recorded his first songs in 1953. Our engaging tour guide sported mismatched socks and a contagious enthusiasm, regaling us with stories of B.B. King, Ike Turner, and the many other musicians who frequented the studio. This is where disc jockey Sam Phillips catapulted musicians to fame and where the Million Dollar Quartet—Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, and Jerry Lee Lewis—gathered for a famous impromptu jam session caught on camera. We took our group photo behind the same microphone used by Elvis to record his tunes.
Photo by Alex Shanksy.
Sun Studio, the birthplace of rock 'n' roll.
The evening kicked off with dinner at Amelia Gene’s, globally inspired fine dining in the lovingly restored William C. Ellis and Sons Ironworks and Machine Shop. Dating back to 1879, the building still retains its original brickwork and steel beams. An attention-grabbing amber chandelier pays homage to the welding flames of days past, glowing a brilliant orange above the patrons enjoying artistic takes on sea bass, filet mignon, and trumpet mushroom risotto.
No Memphis evening is complete without a visit to Beale Street, the city’s neon-lit, live music corridor. We squeezed into the last table on the balcony at B.B. King’s Blues Club and watched the house band pour their soul into a rollicking set for a packed dance floor.
Day Two: Civil Rights & Soul
In this easily walkable city, we greeted the next morning with a brief jaunt from our hotel to Hustle & Dough, an all-day bakery and cocktail bar. They offered a range of hand pies, scones, and a full café menu complimented by gourmet coffee from New Orleans’s own Mammoth Coffee Company.
From the bakery, it was a short, five-minute stroll to the National Civil Rights Museum, located in the historic Lorraine Motel where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was fatally shot on April 4, 1968. The sobering museum provides an immersive journey through the American Civil Rights movement, with an unparalleled compilation of stories, photographs, and exhibits documenting this important struggle in our country’s history.
King was in Memphis to participate in the Sanitation Workers’ Strike of 1968, known for its iconic “I AM A MAN” signs that were produced daily in historic Clayborn Temple’s basement. Today, the former church, which fell into disuse and ruin, is undergoing a $14 million restoration to return it to the way it looked on April 4, 1968. Once the project is complete, the building will serve as a performance space, gallery, and museum documenting the church’s history.
Photo by Julian Harper.
Inside the National Civil War Museum.
We regrouped for ribs, hot wings, and pulled pork at Central BBQ, right next door to the Civil Rights Museum. The line was out the door when we arrived at this popular hot-spot, and after devouring tabletop-sized portions full of slow-smoked meats and sauces, we nearly fought over the last bites of the banana pudding and peanut butter pie.
At the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, we walked in the footsteps of Memphis soul music greats, such as Otis Redding, Booker T. & the MGs, and Isaac Hayes. When siblings Jim Stewart and Estelle Axton opened their recording studio in a former movie theater in 1959, they launched the widely popular sounds of American soul music. We toured the museum’s exhibits, including Isaac Hayes’s gold-plated, peacock blue 1972 Cadillac, while listening to Stax hits including Redding's “(Sittin' On) The Dock of the Bay” and “Do the Funky Chicken” by Rufus Thomas.
Before dinner, I took advantage of a gap in our schedule to soak up some sun at Tom Lee Park on the Mississippi River. It was a quick walk from our hotel down some side streets and a steep set of stairs to the packed riverfront park. Once there, I was greeted with gorgeous views of the river and the distant, pyramid-shaped Bass Pro Shops.
Photo by Julian Harper.
Tom Lee Park on the Mississippi River in Memphis.
For our last night in Memphis, we headed to Crosstown Concourse for drinks at Crosstown Art Bar. The former Sears distribution center was transformed into a “vertical urban village,” with a hotel, apartments, restaurants, a high school, clinic, and contemporary arts space all under one roof. The eclectic Art Bar served up seasonal cocktails in comfy rooms displaying portraits of animals and soothing mood lighting. It was the perfect pre-dinner transition into our final meal at Swamp Bar, a Creole restaurant with a global twist offering a menu of curry fried oysters, Creole rangoon, and crawfish pad thai. The bar sits in tandem to neighboring Second Line, a New Orleans comfort food favorite with classics like dressed po-boys and shrimp and grits.
Early Monday morning, the conductor issued his boarding call, and I filed back onto the Amtrak train headed to New Orleans. It had been a whirlwind weekend, and this time, I embraced my own veteran status and spent the hours of quiet travel resting before pulling into the station back home.
Disclaimer: This trip was partially funded by Memphis Travel, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.
