The blues were born in the Mississippi Delta and the Delta remembers. In Greenwood, the blues carry deep meaning and resonance. Musical memory suffuses the highways and back roads of this stately town along the banks of the Yazoo River. Greenwood served as the stomping ground of blues legends like Robert Johnson (“King of the Delta Blues”) and Elmore James (“King of the Slide Guitar”). Today the city honors these icons and the powerful legacy they left behind while continuing to celebrate the Delta’s vibrant musical culture.
The Greenwood area remains a dream destination for blues fans and an ideal starting point for a statewide Mississippi Blues Trail experience. In Leflore County alone, visitors can explore eight markers. Stops include Robert Johnson’s gravesite, the birthplaces of B.B. King, Hubert Sumlin and Guitar Slim (also known as Eddie Jones) and a marker honoring Walter “Furry” Lewis.
The trail also leads to several historic music venues. Elks Hart Lodge No. 640 became a hub for rhythm and blues and a dedicated space for the African American community. Baptist Town, a historically Black neighborhood that nurtured generations of blues musicians and helped shape the genre. WGRM Radio Station also played a role granting blues musicians invaluable space on the airwaves.
Scott Barretta, a lecturer in sociology and anthropology at the University of Mississippi, noted that visitors flock to Greenwood to explore its musical past and experience its contemporary music scene. Barretta supports this mission through his work with the Hush Puppy Music Co-Op, a local music promotion organization which invites regional and national acts to Greenwood to carry on its rich and vibrant musical heritage.
“We book a pretty wide range of music, including indie bands and blues singer-songwriter stuff,”
—Scott Barretta
“We book a pretty wide range of music, including indie bands and blues singer-songwriter stuff,” Barretta said. “My organization, we have concert series in the spring and the fall. We basically try to book acts that are touring nationally or regionally—to get musicians who otherwise wouldn’t be stopping here.”
Ride the Rails. In Greenwood, accessing both the Delta’s musical past and present can be just a train ride away. Taking advantage of Amtrak connections from Memphis, New Orleans, and Chicago, those looking for an authentic and soulful musical tourism experience can choose to come and go by train, letting the music lead them home.
To access a comprehensive roundup of Delta Blues musical sites and history in and around Greenwood, click HERE.
