At Valencia Restaurant, when that sizzling paella pan arrives at your table, studded with prawns, fresh mussels and imported Spanish chorizo, you can trust that this dish is a labor of love. Chef Efrain Bermudez, who was born in Queens, NY, and began his culinary career in Orlando, FL, is passionate about delivering a lively Spanish tapa and paella experience at his Covington restaurant. Chef Bermudez is also focused on translating the regional “country cooking” dishes of Spain into elevated plates worthy of planning a special dinner around. One item on Valencia’s summer menu, Pulpo a la Gallega, takes the hearty potato and boiled octopus dish common in the Spanish region of Galicia, and reinvents it as a smoky, tangy showstopper featuring charred octopus and Manchego cheese. A classic Tortilla Española, or Spanish omelet, gets a dash of flair in the form of caviar and creme fraiche. Accompanying the menu is a thoughtful list of Spanish wines and cavas, cocktails, and desserts including flan and churros with chocolate.
The regions of Spain have vastly different culinary traditions, and at Valencia, Bermudez sets out to showcase the iconic offerings of each—whether that be the seafood and rich sauces of the north, or the primarily rice-based dishes, like paella, one encounters in the east. At Valencia, Bermudez is bringing the culinary traditions of the Iberian peninsula to bear on the treasures of the Louisiana Gulf. Fresh Gulf shrimp comes from Lama Seafood in Madisonville, which Bermudez prepares with Spanish imports like specialty rice and chorizo sausage. Famous Valencia oranges even find their way onto the menu in the form of marmalade, which he uses to glaze pork belly bites and the Valencia rolls (otherwise known as shrimp and chorizo egg rolls).
Bermudez attributes his love of cooking to both of his parents, particularly his dad, who built a career in New York’s culinary industry. In fact, a focus on family is what brought Bermudez to St. Tammany in the first place. For Chef Efrain, the best thing about the Northshore is its open space and lush greenery—the kind of place he wanted to raise his kids. “When I first entered Mandeville I thought, ‘ this reminds me of home,' and I moved quickly to the Northshore and I’ve been here ever since,” he said. He’s already made his culinary name at the establishments Empataco in Madisonville and Folsom’s Geaux Pizza & Wings. And with two more restaurants on deck, Bermudez shows no sign of slowing down. This November, Chef Efrain Bermudez will travel with Louisiana Culinary Trails to Denver, Colorado, to help put his beloved St. Tammany parish on the map. Closer to home, find him (and experience that amazing paella) at visitthenorthshore.com/listing/valencia-restaurant/1312/