1997: Brigtsen's
Louisiana's Tradition of fine food—the next generation
This story was selected by the Country Roads magazine editorial team as the representative piece for 1997 in the archival project "40 Stories From 40 Years"—celebrating the magazine's 40th anniversary on stands. Click here to read more stories from the project.
One of Louisiana’s greatest traditions is the unselfish passing on from generation to generation the secrets of the state’s legendary cuisine. It happens in restaurants such as Commander’s Palace, whose kitchen has spawned such culinary stars as Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme, among others. It has happened at K-Pauls, Prudhomme’s own restaurant, which served as the training ground for talents such as Greg Soniat, chef and owner with wife Mary, of the acclaimed Gabrielle’s, and Frank Brigtsen who, with wife Marna, is the driving force behind Brigtsen’s Restaurant. Who knows what talent is now gestating in their remarkable kitchens–talent whose sumptuous fare we’ll drink a toast to in the future?
And just as a proud parent hopes his offspring surpasses him, those nurturing chefs were proud and pleased to see their progeny develop their own unique culinary style and continue to be innovative in their own establishments.
Frank Brigtsen has certainly done so. Although he admits that he still refers to the techniques and the timing he learned at Prudhomme’s side, both at Commander’s and later at K-Pauls, he has become an acclaimed chef whose style has been recognized by Food and Wine as “One of America’s Top Ten New Chefs,” and by New Orleans Magazine as “Chef of the Year” in 1994. For three years in a row, he was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for the title of “America’s Best Chef–Southeast.” And the kudos keep coming.
Frank began his culinary career in 1973 while attending LSU. In 1979 he apprenticed at Commander’s Palace Restaurant under Chef Paul Prudhomme and in 1980 became the first night chef at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen. By the time his seven-year tenure there was complete, his title was executive chef.
[Find Chef Frank Brigtsen's recipe for chicken and andouille gumbo, here.]
He and Marna opened the doors of Brigtsen’s Restaurant in March 1986. Located on a quiet street in the Riverbend area of New Orleans, Brigtsen’s occupies a converted shotgun cottage built in the 1850s. Simply and tastefully decorated with antiques and chintz, lace curtains and slowly turning ceiling fans, arriving guests might be forgiven for feeling a little like warmly welcomed visitors to a comfortable family home.
Brigtsen’s kitchen produces fare that defies neat labeling. Best perhaps, to explain that Frank has dedicated himself to infusing Creole-Acadian cuisines with a steady stream of innovation. He uses unusual ingredients and diverse combinations of seasonings–local produce whenever possible–to subject Louisiana’s famous fare to constant reinvention. He visits local fresh markets daily, writes the resulting menu by hand and personally cooks every night. The menu offers regional classics such as Rabbit and Andouille Gumbo ($4) and imaginative, superbly presented offerings such as grilled Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Sweet Potato Purée, Duck Jus and Truffled Honey ($15) or Rabbit Tenderloin on Tasso Parmesan Grits Cake with Spinach and Creole Mustard Sauce ($8.75). For main course, consider Roast Duck with Popcorn Dirty Rice and Honey Pecan Gravy ($21) or Grilled Beef Tournedos with Tasso Marchand du Vin Sauce ($24). As well as this different-daily menu, Frank offers a three-course early evening special for $14.95, with a choice of two popular dishes for each course. Marna runs the front of the house as Maitre d’hotel and, together with Rhonda Madach, maintains a warm, cheerful atmosphere that completes the impression of being a guest in the Brigtsen family home.