Los Isleños
Historians Stephen Estopinal and Chad Leblanc share the history of Louisiana’s Canary Islanders
The cultures of Louisiana, like its intricate web of waterways, lace this region with their enduring traditions and histories—interconnected but distinct. The mainstream is fed by the rivulets of native cultures and those of the peoples who migrated here. One lesser-known filament in this web can be found in Saint Bernard, southeast of New Orleans, where each spring the descendants of Spanish Canary Islanders who arrived in South Louisiana between 1778 and 1783 celebrate their culture at Los Fiesta de los Isleños with traditional dance, Spanish wine, and dishes such as ropa vieja, arroz con pollo, and croquettas.
Louisiana’s Isleño (“Islander”) community traces its history to the late 18th century when Bernardo de Galvez, the Spanish governor of the Louisiana Territory, recruited inhabitants of the Spanish archipelago off the coast of Morocco to populate, cultivate, and defend the deltaic lands south of the Mississippi River.
Today, the descendants of these immigrants are able to learn about and live out their cultural identities thanks in large part to the preservation work performed by the Los Isleños Heritage and Cultural Society of Saint Bernard (founded in 1976); and the Canary Islanders Heritage Society of Louisiana (CIHSL) of Baton Rouge (founded in 1996). With a common mission spanning the two main regions of historic Isleño settlements, the organizations work together to offer educational programming and events throughout the year. Frequently at the helm of this work are cultural champions Stephen Estopinal and Chad LeBlanc.
Estopinal, whose family has been in St. Bernard Parish since 1778, traces the Estopinal name back to the ship manifests of the original Isleño settlers. Before retiring, he worked as a civil engineer and land surveyor—which granted him up close access to property records dating back to the Isleños’ first settlement of Saint Bernard, which he spent over forty years researching. He explained how the lands granted the soldier recruits and their families were chosen primarily for their strategic locations on the Mississippi River and Bayou Lafourche—waterways that accessed New Orleans and needed to be defended against invasion. These were mosquito-infested, flood-prone areas, often in the direct path of hurricanes. Three of the four original settlements of Isleños were unsuccessful, but Conceptión, now called Saint Bernard, was.
The Isleños were and continue to be adaptable people. When Estopinal first visited the Canary Islands with his family in 2008, he was amazed at the difference between the terrains of the mountainous Islands and that of low, wet Louisiana. Those first immigrants to Louisiana had to learn to farm this strange new land, as well as to trap and fish in the productive marshlands and bays. There, they developed a resiliency to the constant barrage of hurricanes and flooding with strong extended family connections to aid them in their recovery. “This resiliency after natural disaster and the practice of of looking out for our neighbors are Isleño traits,” claimed Estopinal. These values persist today, especially in those who continue to make their home in the low-lying lands so deeply affected by environmental degradation.
Living in such difficult terrain at the far edges of Louisiana, the early Isleños remained relatively isolated, allowing their folkways to persist. They continued to speak Spanish and make the foods they knew from home, though the influence of their new environment crept into those traditions in its own way, too. Paella, the rice and seafood dish of Spain, morphed into jambalaya, and the Spanish spoken by the Isleños evolved into what is now known as Louisiana Isleño Spanish. The Isleños of Saint Bernard, more geographically isolated than their counterparts near Donaldsonville, continued to speak this Isleño Spanish as a first language into the twentieth century; a handful of native speakers are still alive today. Estopinal’s own grandfather spoke the 18th century Canary Islander Spanish as his first language.
While traveling in the Canary Islands, Estopinal met a musician named Fernando who had once traveled to Louisiana to play La Fiesta in Saint Bernard. He spoke no English but quickly made a call to a friend who could serve as interpreter between he and Estopinal. A familiar voice on the line called out, “Steve, where are you?” It was Estopinal’s friend Wimpy Serigne back in Saint Bernard—he knew Fernando and was happy to keep the conversation flowing between friends an entire ocean away.
Leblanc, current President of the CIHSL and a generation younger than Estopinal, spoke about the historical loss of language in the Isleño communities near his hometown of Pierre Part, which had not been established for long before throngs of Acadians started arriving in 1785. “Almost overnight, the language disappeared, and the names got ‘Frenchified,’” he said. As the Acadian culture overwhelmed the Isleños, Spanish words of the Isleños and other Spanish speaking settlers became part of the everyday parlance of the Acadians as their own language was transformed to include words like lagniappe (a little extra), cocodrie (alligator), and cabri (goat).
As an author and avid genealogical sleuth, passionate about history and knowing where people come from, Leblanc wrote about this cultural interfacing in his recently published historical novel The Roots of the Bayou. “I wanted people of Cajun and Isleños descent to know their intertwined history. It’s based on people from my family tree,” he said, explaining how he brought the tree to life by comingling facts with imagined stories inspired by the baptismal records, sailing dates, and other genealogical data he has collected over the years.
“I wanted people of Cajun and Isleños descent to know their intertwined history. It’s based on people from my family tree," —Chad Leblanc
For his 2018 nonfiction book, The Isleños of Pierre Part, LeBlanc looked up every kid in his kindergarten class to find out their potential connections to the Isleños. When he investigated his co-workers’ ancestry, he found four out of the ten people working in his small IT office in Baton Rouge were of Isleños heritage. “Once you get into genealogy, it’s addictive,” he said. He puts his “addiction” to good use through his work with the CIHSL helping people understand their ancestry.
“If your family has been in South Louisiana for two hundred years, and you go back on your family tree ten generations—you do the math, how could you not have those names?” he asked, referring to names like Aguilard, Acosta, Domingue, Falcon, Hernandez—which were listed on the manifests of the ships that carried the original Canary Islander immigrants to Louisiana.
Estopinal, who shares Leblanc’s obsessions with history, and especially Isleños history, is also a writer. Influenced by his own military background and his family’s oral history, he is currently working on the tenth book in his de Melilla Chronicles series—which tell the stories of the Isleños and their involvement in various military battles throughout history.
“All during school we were taught that the battles of the American Revolution were fought mainly on the East Coast,” said Estopinal. “But I discovered that Galvez and his Louisiana Spanish Regiment drove the British out of Baton Rouge, Mobile, Pensacola and the entire Mississippi River Valley. Without Galvez, America could not have succeeded. The Isleños were brought here specifically for Galvez’s military campaigns. This is a story that needs to be told.”
By way of storytelling and their enthusiasm in sharing their Louisiana Isleño culture, Estopinal and Leblanc inspire a closer look at our own heritage, wherein lies stories that connect us not only to our own ancestors but to the greater history of this place, and to each other.
I recommend the following two books to those interested in further reading about the Isleños of Louisiana: Gilbert C. Dinn’s The Canary Islanders of Louisiana (1999) and Samantha Perez’s The Isleños of Louisiana (2011). You can also find Estopinal’s body of literary works at estopinal.com, and LeBlanc’s at chadleblanc.com.
To learn more about the Isleños, upcoming events from the two societies, and resources for genealogical research, visit canaryislanders.org and losisleños.org.