Q&A with the 2021 Louisiana Seafood King of Kings

This summer, James Beard Award-winning Chef Tory McPhail—who relocated to Bozeman, Montana in 2020—proved that mastery of Louisiana seafood isn’t something you just shrug off. The former Commander’s Palace executive chef took a break from his work at his Bozeman venture Revelry Plates + Pours in late June to compete in the Fourteenth Annual Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off.

Presented by Lieutenant Governor Billy Nungesser and the Louisiana Seafood Promotion and Marketing Board, this year’s cook-off brought together ten past champions—McPhail won in 2009—to battle for the title of King of Kings.

In a magnificently orchestrated showcase of Louisiana’s most distinct and beloved flavors, McPhail claimed his victory with a dish of sheepshead with shrimp and crab, garnished with a shrimp tasso henica made with his mystery ingredient Bulldog Pepper Jelly Roasted Pecan, flambéed fresh sweet crabmeat with summer corn, glazed with whiskey—all atop a Creole sauce.

In celebration of his new title, we reached out to McPhail to chat about all things Louisiana seafood, about his new life in Bozeman, and about all he has to look forward to as the official 2021 Louisiana Seafood King of Kings.

It’s a thrilling feeling to wear the crown again after going head-to-head with the very best seafood chefs in Louisiana. All of these chefs have been friends for years, so this certainly felt like a bit of a homecoming. —Chef Tory McPhail

First, how does it feel to reign again as the King of Louisiana seafood?

It’s a thrilling feeling to wear the crown again after going head-to-head with the very best seafood chefs in Louisiana. All of these chefs have been friends for years, so this certainly felt like a bit of a homecoming.

What was it like returning to Louisiana for the event?

I had butterflies the whole time on the flight down from Bozeman and was excited to be involved again after winning back in 2009.

Over the course of your career, how has Louisiana seafood played a role in your creative process as a chef?

Louisiana has not only shaped my career, but has transformed the scope of my whole life. We all know that Louisiana has such a huge variety of seafood that one might get spoiled having the opportunity to cook so much of it every day. But it’s really the relationships that have been forged with the people in the industry that have made it special and created life long friends in the seafood industry.

What are some of your favorite Louisiana seafood products, and what are your favorite ways to use them?

My favorite seafood is the species that happens to be at the peak of season on any particular day. But honestly, I love softshell crabs and how delicious and briny they are when they’re fresh out of the water and delivered to Commander’s Palace alive and kicking, ready for service within minutes of their arrival.

Tell us about your award-winning dish! How did it come together? Have you ever made anything like that before?

Our award-winning dish this time was similar to the dish we did originally back in 2009. We did a vertical tasting of the bayou, featuring sheepshead, white shrimp, and blue crab. This time, I made this dish super healthy and clean by making it gluten free and grain free. This was an inspiration by food coach Jen Smiley who lives in New Orleans and started to work with us during the pandemic.

Your mystery ingredient was Bulldog Pepper Jelly Roasted Pecan. Have you ever used that in a dish before?

I love pepper jelly and have had the Bulldog brand in my house for years. I chose to make the shrimp component after the signature dish at Commander’s Palace called Shrimp and Tasso Henican. I love that dish, because there is so much flavor packed in each and every bite.

Not only is seafood versatile and delicious, but it can also be beautiful. In honor of our annual Design issue, would you tell us a little bit about your approach to the art of plating seafood?

Plating beautiful food is certainly an artform and requires a steady hand, creativity, a balance of color, textures, flow, and symmetry. The sauce work is not to be taken lightly, either. The sauce or the garnishes can really frame the dish and provide structure and a finality to the composition of the main dish. Everything must work harmoniously and have a purpose on the plate.

In 2020, you left your nineteen-year tenure as Executive Chef at Commander’s Palace for a new adventure in Bozeman, Montana. Tell us a little bit about your new post at Revelry Plates + Pours, and how you are liking your new home.

Bozeman is a great little city, and the vibe and culture are budding with great new restaurants and bars to compliment what’s made our food scene famous for generations.

Montana is far from the ocean—how has your expertise with Louisiana cuisine and seafood come in to play in developing your new menu?

My experiences in New Orleans have made my approach to cuisine here in Montana very transformative. Revelry is just celebrating its first birthday and doing extremely well already. Our philosophy here, much like Commander’s, is to evolve the menus into regionally and seasonally focused cuisine that reflects the community and the rich history of this area in Gallatin County .

You are set to compete in the Great American Seafood Cook-Off in New Orleans on August 7-8. Can you give our readers a hint of what you’ve got up your sleeve?

We’ll be cooking Flathead Lake trout from Northwest Montana. These are wild, hook-and-line caught fish that are only allowed to be harvested by the indigenous Native Americans that have called Flathead Lake home for hundreds of years. The proceeds go to support the tribes and provide important funds for the conservation of the legendary lake that has sustained their family heritage for generations.  

Keep up with all things Louisiana seafood at louisianaseafood.com.