The Shack

“Here, try my fish; it’s the special tonight,” said Cher Cairns, happily offering me a forkful of tender Gulf fish from her plate. “It’s so good!” Cher, a Shack regular who visits at least twice a week, had quickly introduced herself upon our arrival at the neighboring barstools. “I eat dinner here every Tuesday and Friday. On Friday they have music in the back, and they have crab cakes; and they only have them on Fridays. They are really good—each one has a half-pound of crab meat in it,” said Cairns. 

“You have to try a bite of my avocado salad, too,” added her daughter-in-law, Diana. Indeed, the unique combination of creamy avocado, sweet mango, and bright citrus made my taste buds sing. I was now eagerly awaiting our forthcoming duck quesadillas and marinated chili shrimp skewers, and I was not disappointed. The quesadillas were covered in a trio of colorful sauces and topped with an ample amount of house-pickled red onions that countered the richness of the duck. Glazed with a sweet and spicy sauce, the shrimp skewers lay atop a bed of perfectly grilled squash, zucchini, and asparagus, along with a housemade tortilla. 

The Shack’s menu is as eclectic as its clientele, with a mix of Latin-inspired sandwiches, tacos, and entrees that also includes Southern specials like fried chicken, ribs, and grits and grillades. Maybe you could call it Latin fusion, but not too many menus feature a burrito and a banh mi simultaneously. While it may seem difficult to successfully execute such a diverse menu, once you get to know chef and co-owner Thomas “LoLo” LoPresti, it all makes perfect sense. LoPresti, a New York native with stints in California, Colorado, Alaska, and most recently St. Croix, draws from his vast restaurant experience to curate dishes that reflect his familiarity with diverse cuisines. He credits early experiences cooking with family for whetting his culinary palate. “I guess my first job was working in my aunt’s friend’s Jewish catering hall in New York. There I was, eleven years old, making matzo ball soup … and it was the best matzo ball soup,” said LoPresti. From there, he honed his craft by working in kitchens all over the Northern hemisphere, each one introducing him to new skills, techniques, and culinary genres.

On Martha’s Vineyard, he learned how to cook the perfect lobster; in Colorado, he grew comfortable working with buffalo; he was spoiled by fresh seafood in Alaska; and in California, LoPresti fell in love with the easily-accessible, high-quality fruits and vegetables. While working for an Austrian chef in Colorado, LoPresti decided to join friends moving to St. Croix. There he met Louisiana native Christine Clouatre, whose trip in the immediate aftermath of Hurricane Katrina turned into a two-year extended stay on the island. The two reunited a few years later in New Orleans and later, with a growing family, decided to settle near Christine’s family in Covington to open their own restaurant, alongside Dean Thomas and Adam Foster.

“Christine had a vision for what she wanted and went out and found the perfect building. This building housed [Schwing’s Seafood] restaurant in Covington. It was very popular with the older crowd.” Now, it seems, that same crowd has embraced the funky restaurant with a laid-back vibe. “That’s our lunch business now—them coming and bringing their families.”

While it may seem difficult to successfully execute such a diverse menu, once you get to know chef and co-owner Thomas “LoLo” LoPresti, it all makes perfect sense.

Still, it was a daunting task to transform the defunct building, located outside the coveted downtown area, and turn it into their dream. They called in friends and past coworkers from all over to help get the restaurant up and running. And slowly but surely, the community embraced the new kid on the block. “Cher was one of our first customers. We love her. She is a great advocate for the restaurant. She brings in new people all the time. She even drops vegetables off at the house for my kids.” 

The two-year-old restaurant is quickly becoming a popular community hangout spot, especially on the weekends. With the addition of The ShackYard out back, folks can watch Saints games and enjoy al fresco dining, while their children frolic in the fenced-in yard, complete with a variety of kid-friendly toys to keep them occupied. 

[Beef up your Northshore dining sojourn at Lua Café]

“The ShackYard idea came from running bars. I did not want to run a late-night joint. I have a two-, three- and four-year-old and when I saw that yard in disarray, I pictured kids running around while their parents were eating good food,” said LoPresti. “The first day I heard kids running around, I knew my vision had come to life.”

When asked how he would characterize his menu, LoPresti quickly replied, “Good! We make everything from scratch. We smoke all of our own meat; we make the zucchini pickles for the Cubano, and even the tomato jam on our burger,” said LoPresti. “I guess you can call it comfort food with a kick.”

The locals seem to appreciate The Shack’s penchant for inspired, high-quality food and the easygoing, communal atmosphere.  “We are getting those faces that we see two or three times a week. When you are feeding someone most of their meals for the week, it’s like feeding your family. We just want people to sit back, relax, and try something that they don’t eat every day.”  

Tuesday—Saturday, 11 am–9 pm, and Sunday, 11 am–4 pm. The ShackYard opens Friday at 4, all day Saturday, and Sunday until 4. theshackcovington.com.

This article originally appeared in our June 2018 issue. Subscribe to our print magazine today.