Covington

Whether your Louisiana stay-cation demands quaint small towns, Louisiana beers, the great outdoors, or live music, the Northshore is sure to please. This variety, incidentally, also lends itself to a companionable—and may I even venture to say, romantic—couple’s getaway. Pegging Covington as our home base, my fiancé and I escaped to that charming town at the head of the Tammany Trace for a weekend getaway.

THE OASIS

Nestled in the heart of Covington’s historic district, the Camellia House B&B is a tranquil and luxurious escape. As we slipped through the arched arbor gate from the sidewalk, we felt like we were entering a secret garden. The grounds were filled with azaleas, leafy tropicals, and overflowing pots of impatiens and dianthus; when I spied a wide hammock tucked in a quiet corner, I quickly recalculated our schedule to add time for a nap.

We were greeted by three happy little dogs and owners Linda Whitsett Chambless and Don Chambless. Originally from New Orleans, Linda and Don purchased the 1920s-era raised cottage in 1992 after falling in love with Covington. They opened a lawn maintenance business while they renovated the house and developed the gardens, finally opening the B&B in 2000. Since then, they have shared their love of this town with their guests, nurturing the kind of experience that brings clients back year after year. Throughout our stay, Don and Linda were welcoming and attentive. It is no surprise why this B&B consistently receives high ratings online and rave reviews from folks who have visited.

Following the stone pathways that meander through the yard, ducking under giant banana plants, we made our way to the second floor side porch and our room. The wide porch overlooked a crystal blue pool, a fire ring, and a hot tub, which is set in a raised, white gazebo. Linda introduced us to our room, graciously pointing out the necessities, including where to find her stash of homemade fudge. Then she left us to relax, unwind, and enjoy the tranquil space. We cuddled up under a blanket on the chaise, looking out over the garden while enjoying a cold beverage. We were in the middle of town, yet we felt completely secluded.

After an appropriate amount of porch sitting, we set out to explore historic Covington. We strolled along the tree-lined streets past charming houses, cafés, and a barber shop out of which escaped the comforting rumble of old men talking politics.

For dinner, we chose Del Porto, an upscale, yet cozy, bistro with white tablecloths, exposed brick, and large windows. Famous for its martinis, Del Porto’s drink special that night was a crisp, delicious pear martini. From the small plates menu, we snacked on yellowfin tuna crudo and a white bean and artichoke spread with crostini. Then we devoured our entrées: a pear and pancetta salad with gorgonzola vinaigrette and a giant pork chop served with a pear-red pepper sauce over grilled polenta.

For after-dinner entertainment, Linda recommended several options along North Columbia Street, including the Columbia Street Tap Room & Grill, which has live music most weekends. But since there was a bottle of champagne and a hot tub waiting at the B&B, we made our way back there to enjoy the amenities, the ambience, and the new “light show.” With infectious enthusiasm, Linda had earlier informed us of her new addition to the landscape. We were not quite sure what to think—worriedly imagining a Pink Floyd-like laser light show. But of course, like everything else at Camellia House, the lights were just perfect—understated and atmospheric. Without ruining the surprise for those who may find themselves at the Camellia House, let me just say that the lights were a lovely addition to the yard and were definitely not of the Pink Floyd persuasion. Linda said it best: “I didn’t even realize it was boring before the lights.”

PEDALING AROUND

For breakfast, Linda stocks the mini-fridge with quiche, fruit, and juice. She also places delectable homemade pastries in the rooms each evening where they tempt you beyond measure to forsake breakfast for a late-evening snack. We managed to hold off, though, and enjoyed our breakfast in waves: pastries first on the chaise, mimosas and quiche at the bistro table overlooking the pool and garden, then fresh fruit in the oversized lounge chairs.

It was high time for some physical exertion. The Camellia House offers loaner bikes—even a bicycle built for two—so after an unhurried morning, we selected a couple of comfy cruisers and pedaled off.

The Covington Farmers Market is located in a park-like setting where local farmers and producers sell fresh vegetables, eggs, milk, cheeses, and meats. Homemade delights included authentic Italian, Mediterranean, and Mexican treats; vegan fare; pastries; and more. We shopped and sampled to our hearts’ content before settling under the oak trees for some people-watching and an accompanying local music jam in the gazebo before heading to the Covington Brewhouse, located in the old Alexius Hardware building. The Covington Brewhouse was founded in 2005 as Heiner Brau Microbrewery, which at the time was only the second brewery in Louisiana (following Abita). Brian Broussard, guitarist, part owner, and Covington’s master brewer, led us on a tour. While we explored, we sampled all of the beers on tap. The Strawberry Cream Ale made for a great breakfast beer and the Anonymous IPA was outstanding.

A Tammany Trace bike ride was next on the agenda. The trace is a thirty-one-mile paved trail created from the old Illinois Central Railroad corridor, which meanders from Covington to Slidell through loblolly pines, live oaks, and magnolias. The trace is excellent for walkers, joggers, or bikers; and with trailheads (rest stops) along the way, the trip is as long or short as you like. Don regularly bikes the entire trail and eagerly recommended his favorite section: the route between Fontainebleau State Park and Lacombe. We planned our route—a whopping three and a half-mile trek from Covington to Abita Springs. We dare to live large.

Making our leisurely way to our destination—with several stops for selfies along the way, including one on the bike bridge over the Bogue Falaya River—we reached Abita Springs in less than an hour. At the trailhead park, we took in the views from the historic Abita Springs Pavilion, which was constructed in 1888 just after the first railroad was built through Abita Springs, dropping off tourists attracted by the supposed healing powers of the spring’s water. After a peek in the trailhead museum, we walked to the Abita Brew Pub for—what else—an Abita beer. We tried two special selections: the Macchiato Espresso Milk Stout and the Bière de Garde, a French farmhouse ale. Boosted by the espresso and carbs, we hopped back on the trace and biked to the Abita Brewery for a tour and more beer tasting.

LOUISIANA SATURDAY NIGHT

Curiosity about the Abita Springs Opry was actually the inspiration for our trip to the Northshore. When, in 2002, the Abita Springs Opry took the place of the then defunct Piney Woods Opry, the musical range was expanded from acoustic old-time country, bluegrass, and gospel to include more genres of Louisiana roots music, including jazz, blues, Cajun, and zydeco. Part ho-down, part revival, the show we saw opened with traditional country bluegrass followed by a honky tonk band and New Orleans-inspired jazz. Ending the night were the Zion Harmonizers. One of the state’s premier gospel groups, these gentlemen have been singing praises for over seventy-five years and even originated the gospel tent at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival. By the end of the night, the whole place was on its feet, clapping and stomping. When the show was over, folks spilled out onto the porch to visit before heading over to the Abita Brew Pub where bands traditionally gather for an encore jam session.

It was hard to leave the Camellia House. I mean, it was physically difficult to make ourselves get up off the chaise, walk away from the porch, exit the garden gate, and drive away. Thankfully, we had had the good sense to set up a carrot: a reservation at La Provence in Lacombe for a late brunch. A decadent breakfast on the way home is a good way to ease the transition back to real life.

Details. Details. Details.

Camellia House 
426 East Rutland Street 
Covington, La. 
(985) 893-2442 • camelliahouse.net

Del Porto 
501 East Boston Street 
Covington, La. 
(985) 875-1006 • delportoristorante.com

Covington Brewhouse 
226 East Lockwood Street 
Covington, La. 
(985) 893-2884 • covingtonbrewhouse.com

Abita Brewery 
21084 Highway 36 
Abita Springs, La. 
(985) 893-3143 ext. 201 • abita.com

Abita Springs Opry 
22161 Level Street 
Abita Springs, La. 
(985) 892-0711 • abitaopry.org