In the Land of the Blues

They say the best journeys are the ones that take us home, and that couldn’t be more fitting for the followers of the Mississippi Blues Trail. After all, most of today’s popular music actually finds its roots in the blues, a genre that was born in the Mississippi Delta. The Magnolia State was a central region for the meteoric rise of the blues in the early twentieth century, and the state continues to nurture new styles and voices. For music lovers and history buffs alike, Mississippi’s official Blues Trail is a road trip must.

Blues greats Robert Johnson, Muddy Waters, Son House, and B. B. King all grew up within whistling distance of U.S. Highway 61, the storied stretch of blacktop that cuts through the heart of the Mississippi Delta and decades ago delivered the musicians north—onto the national stage and into music history. There are miles of flat, fertile farmland, and stick-to-your-ribs soul food, some of the best music in the country, and an innate hospitality and friendliness, but also poverty and the painful legacy of the Jim Crow South. Above all, though, there’s an authenticity and soulfulness here that must be experienced firsthand. There’s nowhere else quite like it.

This sublimely circular journey starts in the city of Cleveland at Dockery Farms, which is widely believed to be the actual birthplace of the blues in the early 20th century, when Charley Pa on was playing tunes at all-night picnics and teaching guitar to prodigies like Howlin’ Wolf. The 200-plus trail markers point to a host of other landmarks of the blues movement around the state.

Clarksdale

Head an hour west of Oxford on Highway 278 or ninety minutes south of Memphis on Highway 61 and you’ll hit Clarksdale, the dusty blues hub where legend holds that Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil at the intersection of Highway 61 and Highway 49. A trio of electric guitars hoisted into the air on a metal pole marks the historic spot. 

Take a tour of Robert Johnson’s three graves. Legend claims Johnson sold his soul to the Devil at the crossroads of Highways 61 and 49 so he could play the Delta blues. Supposedly poisoned by a jealous husband at a juke joint at Three Forks where Highways 82 and 49E intersect, Johnson was taken to a shotgun house at the Star of the West Plantation north of Greenwood, where he lingered for several days before dying on August 16, 1938, at the age of 27. Johnson’s death and burial created a mystery almost as great as his talent’s sudden appearance. His death certificate says Johnson is buried at Zion Church — but which one?

Once in Clarksdale, put Cat Head record store on your immediate to-do list. Ask for Roger. The shop’s owner, Roger Stolle ditched corporate America and moved to Clarksdale in 2002, led there by his love for the blues. If you’re after live music, he’ll know where to find it.

Make time for the Delta Blues Museum, housed in an old freight depot downtown,

Explore the blues through memorabilia at the Delta Blues Museum, the state’s oldest music museum, including permanent exhibits such as Muddy Waters’ childhood cabin and guitars played by the greats.

About that live music… It could be argued that Red’s Lounge is the coolest juke joint still operating in Clarksdale, but the New Roxy Theater and Morgan Freeman’s Ground Zero Blues Club are standouts in their own rights. Red’s Blues Club is an authentic juke joint housed in the former LaVene Music Center building. The unassuming establishment has become an unofficial meeting spot for blues travelers from around the globe.

Cleveland: Make your last stop—where else—back in Cleveland, where the GRAMMY Museum® Mississippi, the only museum of its kind outside of Los Angeles, explains how songwriters and musical pioneers paved the path from the blues to the music of today. The GRAMMY Museum Mississippi is dedicated to exploring the past, present and future of music, while casting a spotlight on the deep musical roots of Mississippi. Cutting edge exhibits, interactive experiences and films provide a one-of-a-kind visitor experience — engaging, educating and inspiring the next generation of artists.

Indianola

After lunch, get back on the road and hang a left onto MS-448 toward Indianola to hit the B. B. King Museum to pay tribute to the late blues monarch. Carve out at least two hours to explore this excellent (and educational) institution.

Can’t get enough of the blues? Visit msbluestrail.org/delta for more historic stops. mississippitourguide.com.

Sponsored by Visit Mississippi