City of Lights

One weekend spent strolling among Natchitoches’ sweeping oaks or admiring the curling wrought iron fixtures of its historic architecture, and you’ll be irreversibly hooked on this small town’s charm. To many, Natchitoches, one of the Deep South’s oldest settlements, is also considered the heart of Louisiana history. Natchitoches was established in 1714 by Louis Juchereau de St. Denis as a French trading outpost on the Red River. But Natchitoches had been in unofficial use as early as 1699, making it the oldest permanent settlement within the territory prescribed by the 1803 Louisiana Purchase.

The city takes great care to preserve as much of its history as possible and to make these artifacts and architectural examples available to the public. What is considered the oldest standing structure in Natchitoches, the Tauzin-Wells House, built in 1776, stands on Williams Avenue. The second-oldest residence west of the Mississippi River, it is still a private residence today, but occasionally offers tours. Travel across the river and down to Fort St. Jean Baptiste to soak up more pre-Civil War history. A full-scale replica of Fort St. Jean Baptiste is located on Cane River Lake (formerly a part of the Red River) a few hundred yards from the original site. Take your time walking through the fort, marveling at the centuries-old craftsmanship and learning the fort’s historical significance as the Louisiana Purchase’s first permanent settlement. At Christmastime, the fort preservationists dress in period garb to celebrate the holidays as they would have done in the eighteenth century. 

The wrought iron gates of the American Cemetery on Second Street hold the remains of notable Natchitoches figures, such as folk artist Clementine Hunter, and monuments dating back to more than a century before the Civil War. There’s even a plaque that marks the spot where the famously emotional scene from the movie Steel Magnolias took place. If “laughter through tears” is your favorite emotion, go ahead and reenact the scene; it happens all the time. Steel Magnolias was originally written as a play by Natchitoches native and playwright Robert Harling and recounts the story of his sister’s short life. (Don’t be surprised if many a resident can quote the movie start to finish.) From cast to crew, the whole city of Natchitoches took part in the filming of Steel Magnolias in 1989. In fact, “before the movie was filmed” and “after the local premiere” are acceptable frames of reference to locals. If you’d like to soak up more of the movie or, simply, if “pink is your signature color,” you can stay in main character Shelby’s room at the Steel Magnolias House Bed and Breakfast. The house is within the heart of Natchitoches’ historic district and within easy walking distance of downtown. 

At Christmastime, Natchitoches becomes the City of Lights—okay, it’s not Paris, but it is impressive. Throughout the entire downtown, along riverbanks, and into the historic district, streets are lined with strings of old-fashioned twinkle lights. More than three hundred thousand Christmas lights and one-hundred-plus riverbank set-pieces will glow nightly from November 21, 2015, to January 6, 2016. The first weekend of December kicks off the festivities with the city’s annual Christmas Festival, a community celebration that’s been held since 1927. Hosted by the Natchitoches Historic District Business Association and the City of Natchitoches, this marks the festival’s eighty-ninth year and will have the town hopping Saturday, December 5, with more than one hundred thousand visitors. The daylong festival includes live musical entertainment, arts & crafts, local and traditional food vendors, a parade, and a magnificent fireworks display choreographed to holiday music over the downtown banks of Cane River Lake.

If you miss festival weekend, don’t fret. You can enjoy a fireworks show over Cane River at 7 pm every Saturday until New Year’s Eve. Throughout the holiday season, downtown attractions include carriage rides through the historic district. Shops and restaurants are open late, and several events are scheduled to take place along the downtown banks of Cane River. Santa Claus himself will even be on the riverbank in the evenings, from December 7—23, taking pictures (and gift requests) at no charge. Some riverbank events may require a small admission. 

Spread out from the riverbank activities to tour some of Natchitoches’ loveliest and most historic homes through the Holiday Tour of Homes, hosted by the Natchitoches Historic Foundation and held Wednesday to Saturday during two weeks in December. You’ll tour a selection of homes, including the Prud’homme-Rouquier House, built in 1790 and used by the Service League of Natchitoches today. Pick up a copy of the famous, long-standing Cane River Cuisine cookbook while you’re there. Speaking of … don’t forget about your Christmas shopping while rooting around these historical sites. Begin to pare down your list at Kaffie- Frederick General Mercantile. Open since 1863 and occupying the same spot since 1893, Kaffie-Frederick is the oldest business in the city and sells home goods for the modern—and the not so modern—home. During the holiday season, be sure to check out the second-floor Christmas Department. Soak in its smooth wood finishes, breathe in its old hardware-store aroma, and make sure you listen for the cha-ching of the 1910 cash register they use today for every sale. 

All this Louisiana history learnin’ will definitely make you hungry, so set off a couple of doors down from Kaffie-Frederick to the Pioneer Pub for some seriously fresh pizza and cold craft beer from nearby Louisiana breweries. Daily, the Pub serves up a wide range of dishes made with fresh ingredients from the owner’s garden a few blocks from the Pub. While the Pub itself is only a few years old, like most restaurants lining the aged, brick Front Street, it sits in a century-old building once used as a major resource-post for pioneers traveling west. From end to end, Front Street is full of eateries serving seafood to small plates as well as shops for all ages.

No trip to Natchitoches is complete without trying the city’s famous meat pies. The oldest restaurant serving them homemade is Lasyone’s Meat Pie Restaurant. For nearly fifty years, the Lasyone family has perfected its recipe, serving crispy, juicy meat pies to celebrities and regulars alike. Second generation Lasyones Angela Lasyone and Tina Lasyone Smith have kept their parents’ 1967 dream moving forward while still preserving its history in its location on Second Street next to the historic 1896 courthouse and across the street from the Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, which was established in 1728. 

The suggestions covered in these paragraphs are really just a small sample of the many places in Natchitoches that have stood the test of troubled times to make this town the charming and peaceful place it is. As you will see, much of Natchitoches’ three-hundred-plus-year history is still coursing through its veins; and visitors never fail to feel the pull of pride its hardworking residents have for their city’s significant history and the efforts they have made at preserving its art, architecture, cuisine, and traditions for future generations.

Details. Details. Details.

Fort St. Jean Baptiste State Historic Site
155 Rue Jefferson
(318) 357-3101

The Steel Magnolia House
320 Jefferson Street
(318) 238-2585
steelmagnoliahouse.com

Natchitoches Christmas Festival
natchitocheschristmas.com

Holiday Tour of Homes
Natchitoches Historic Foundation
For Tickets Call: (800) 259-1714

Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile
758 Front Street
(318) 352-2525
oldhardwarestore.com

Pioneer Pub
812 Washington Street
(318) 352-4884

Lasyone’s Meat Pie Kitchen
622 2nd Street
(318) 352-3353
lasyones.com