My, Oh, My Monroe
The local’s travel guide to Northeast Louisiana’s best
Growing up, I bought into that familiar teenage idea of one’s hometown: Monroe was boring, there was nothing to do, on went my list of youthful grievances. While my days were certainly filled with unexpected “happies” here and there, I thought Monroe itself had shown me all I could see. And so, I packed my bags for Louisiana State University, and thought confidently about never coming back. In Baton Rouge, I was excited by the bustling city life. Five years separated from that rush, however, and settled back in Monroe where I began, I’ve started to see so much that I hadn’t before. It turns out this little Northeast Louisiana town is full of stories, rich in history, surrounded by gorgeous landscape, and infused with pride. Returning home has felt like a Renaissance, a rediscovery. And I want nothing more than to share it.
It turns out this little Northeast Louisiana town is full of stories, rich in history, surrounded by gorgeous landscape, and infused with pride.
Where to Stay
Hamilton House Inn
I cannot bring anyone to Monroe without recommending Hamilton House Inn in West Monroe. Originally the Webb Hotel, this Romanesque Revival-style bed and breakfast began operating under the name Hamilton House in 2011 and has served as both lodging and an event space for locals and tourists alike. I brought my husband Tim here for a staycation on his birthday, and we absolutely loved it. All rooms—each with its own unique personality—are incorporated under one roof on the second floor, which leads to a posh shared kitchen and dining area complete with a beautiful balcony. The owners ensured we enjoyed the luxury of a modern hotel stay with the quality and care of the sweetest B&B we’ve ever been to.
The best part about staying here, though, is the location. You’re right on Antique Alley in Downtown West Monroe; the first stop on your journey.
Day 1
Breakfast
Caster and Chicory
Once you wake up, you have the option to enjoy Hamilton House’s complimentary breakfast, but I actually recommend walking over to the bright red food truck down the street.
At the Caster and Chicory bakery truck, you’ll find a piping hot cup of coffee ready to complement their homemade beignets. Owners Jordan and Joel Myers began their food truck endeavor in 2015, and I have vivid memories of people eagerly scrolling through their early morning newsfeeds to see if the food truck would be parked somewhere close to them. On those lucky occasions, we’d all scramble over to try and snag some of their coveted pastries. Now their brick and mortar, which opened in 2019, also offers a myriad of delicacies, like creamy cinnamon rolls, breads, and one of the most coveted king cakes in North Louisiana from Christmas to Mardi Gras.
Antique Alley
Once you’ve kicked off your morning with a sugar high, you’ll be ready to tackle Antique Alley. Starting at the top with Cotton Port Antique Mall, you’ll discover the impossibly-vast buildings filled with a hybrid of both old and new items from local booth owners stationed inside.
As you peruse each store, take the time to wander aimlessly between the mazes of furniture, books, vinyl, postcards, teacups, and everything in between. I always find myself enchanted when inside, imagining the detailed histories and stories behind each item, stories that now I—even if just for a moment—am a part of. I’ll never forget the collection of birthday cards I once found, chronicling the passing years between a loving husband and wife, each one ending with “love you always”; or the sets of cookbooks with writing from owners past, annotating their secret family recipes. In my house hangs a stained-glass Coca-Cola I once found here, my own little treasure from Antique Alley.
Enveloping you with robust combinations of scents and flavors from the moment you set foot in the building, The Spice & Tea Exchange presents wall-to-wall-to-wall spices, sugars, herbs, and teas; along with a plethora of delicate and adorable teapots and cups, soy candles, and spice blends cultivated in the area.
Besides antique stores, “The Alley” also hosts a few sports boutiques and local shops, including a favorite of mine: The Spice & Tea Exchange. Enveloping you with robust combinations of scents and flavors from the moment you set foot in the building, The Spice & Tea Exchange presents wall-to-wall-to-wall spices, sugars, herbs, and teas; along with a plethora of delicate and adorable teapots and cups, soy candles, and spice blends cultivated in the area. The kind staff is always willing to take you through each and every corner of their store, so be sure to let them know it’s your first time.
Before leaving the Alley, make sure to pick up a pamphlet on The Herons on the Bayou, found in many of the store fronts. If you haven’t noticed yet, people-sized painted heron sculptures are popping up all over Ouachita Parish. The public art project features sculptures sponsored by local businesses and designed by local artists, and genuinely adds a fun surprise to my day each time I find a new one displayed in town. The pamphlet notes where each heron can be found at the time of printing, adding an extra element of adventure during your time in Northeast Louisiana.
Two Warriors Meadery
Now, before lunch, I must mention (and perhaps boast of) Louisiana’s only meadery, which resides right off of Antique Alley. Two Warriors Meadery was created by two Army veterans, Curtis Sims and Cameron Myers, who wanted to bring the forgotten art of mead brewing to the area. Mead, or “mjod” … as the Vikings once called it, is a delicious brew distilled from fermented honey and water, which archaeologists believe might have been the first kind of alcoholic beverage intentionally created by man.
While getting to experience the diverse collection of smooth and aromatic drinks myself, Sims emphasized that their primary focus is to keep it local: each mead is sourced from local bees’ honey, every fruit infusion is from a local farm, and furthermore, a portion of their proceeds goes toward local veteran charities. Be warned—you will definitely be leaving this fun pit stop with a bottle to take home.
Lunch in NELA
For lunch, both Monroe and West Monroe’s downtown areas offer plenty of options. If you’re looking to stick on the West Monroe side, you can’t go wrong with a classic chili cheese dog at Coney Island or seafood nachos at Trapp’s on the River, which resides on the Endom Bridge and offers a great view of the river. If you go ahead and cross the Ouachita River, Downtown Monroe (or DOMO) has seen immense growth in the past few years with new shops, bright murals, and several new favorite restaurants like 2Dude’s Brew & Que and Nolan’s Pop Up Bistro. Don’t forget to look out for a few painted herons while you’re there.
If you’re willing to drive a little out of downtown, some of my favorite lunch haunts include La Catrina, a newer, authentic Mexican restaurant with tacos that my friends and I dream about for days afterward; Not Just Pie, whose chefs make a mean roast beef po-boy and pies you’ll miraculously find yourself making room for; and the Coffee Bean, a bustling cafe that is home to my all-time favorite chicken salad (get the Waldorf wrap, you can thank me later).
facebook.com/West-Monroe-Coney-Island -21465847199
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facebook.com/Not-Just-Pie-100859779958558
facebook.com/cafethecoffeebean
Museums
The Biedenharn House and Gardens
The Coca-Cola Museum
The Bible Leaflet Museum
All housed on Riverside drive, these three institutions are interconnected through a shared history. Joseph Augustus Biedenharn was the first to bottle the bubbly drink that had previously only been made in soda shops with carbonated water and syrup. Armed with a family business in the confectionary world and a growing bottling company, “Mr. Joe” as he was known, bought a Coca-Cola bottling factory in Monroe—the beginning of the Coca-Cola franchise we know today.
Beginning at the Coke Museum, you’ll get a history of the Biedenharn family from their resident “Soda Jerk” Gary Salazar. Make sure to bring a nickel to get your very own glass-bottled soda! From there, you’ll move to the Biedenharn house and gardens, which emulate those found in Europe. You’ll get a tour through the house that Mr. Joe’s daughter and world-famous opera singer, Emmy Lou, developed and styled based on her travels while on tour. Remarkably, many of the items found in the painted portraits on the walls are usually sitting right in front of the image.
To me, this gave the whole experience a “history jumping into life” quality that has stuck with me. Emmy Lou, a devout Christian, also began a Bible collection during her lifetime. After the house, you’ll have the opportunity to experience how that collection has grown into an impressive museum filled with figures, religious artworks, and Bible leaflets, including one from the Gutenberg Bible.
Masur Museum of Art
The museum still holds onto its Southern charm in the original and incredibly ornate fireplaces and mezzanine flooring, but, through lighting and the efforts of the dedicated staff, possesses an elevated aura of a modern gallery.
From the Biedenharn, head down South Grand. This is a quick but beautiful drive that displays glorious architectural structures like Layton Castle and the G.B. Cooley House, which Director of the Masur Museum Evelyn Stewart informed me was designed by Walter Burley Griffin and is one of the only Prairie School style buildings in the South. Additionally, she recommended making the block from the museum down South Grand around to St. John to see over ten different architectural styles all in one area. The museum itself is Modified Tudor style—originally a residential building that was donated to the City of Monroe to be an art gallery in 1963.
The museum still holds onto its Southern charm in the original and incredibly ornate fireplaces and mezzanine flooring, but, through lighting and the efforts of the dedicated staff, possesses an elevated aura of a modern gallery. Throughout its history, the museum has presented a vast and eclectic series of exhibitions, featuring diverse styles and mediums. Depending on the time of year you visit and COVID-19 restrictions, the museum puts on several events, including a silent auction fundraiser called Off the Wall in the spring and a block party called Party 318 in October. Additionally, Stewart informed me the museum provides art classes, both for children and adults, and other events that relate to the exhibits they are currently featuring. While the museum itself is currently under repairs caused by a tornado during the spring of 2020, they will hold their Juried Competition, the largest exhibition of the year, in late February through a partnership with the Northeast Louisiana Delta’s African American Heritage Museum. Exhibitions will (hopefully!) be held at the Masur again beginning in May, so be sure to check their website for updates and upcoming events.
Dinner Downtown
Let me tell you, it took everything in us to refrain from licking the plate at the end.
After a day of exploration in every sense of the word, you’ve earned yourself a proper dinner. I invite you to try Parish, a fine dining experience from the mind of Chef Corey Bahr, a Monroe native and avid advocate for local culinary development. When my husband and I visited in October, we were blown away by not only the care that had gone into curating a seasonal menu, but the knowledge of the staff who educated us on every dish to further immerse us in the experience. While I sipped on a spiced apple martini, Tim enjoyed the hearty flavor of an Oktoberfest beer as we devoured our duck wraps doused in a perfectly sweet, tangy sauce. Let me tell you, it took everything in us to refrain from licking the plate at the end.
[Read Arts & Entertainment Editor Alexandra Kennon's guide to Shreveport restaurants here.]
While Parish is dazzling, it does come with a sizable price tag, so if you’re looking for something more budget-friendly, I’ve got you covered. Also found downtown is the Warehouse No. 1, a historic building right on the edge of the Ouachita River. Here, you’ll witness a rainbow of sun and color dance over the river while enjoying a classic elevation of Louisiana cooking.
If you’d like a drink before or after dinner, Brass Monkey Pub & Patio and Five19 Tap House are side-by-side bars that have a very cool, steam-punk kind of feel right down Desiard. Then there is Enoch’s Irish Pub: this fantastic pub is filled with locals who treat each other like family, and they are always more than welcoming to anyone willing to join. They have burgers, cheese fries, and be sure to check out their schedule for local music ranging from indie to rock to what I can only describe as unicorn pop.
facebook.com/Brassmonkeymonroe
Day 2
Breakfast
Lea’s of Lecompte
On Fridays, my friends and I always (try to) wake up early enough to meet at Lea’s of Lecompte before work. After only a few such visits, they started to treat us like regulars. Lea’s has incredible coffee, orange juice in a frozen glass—which, believe me, makes all the difference—pancakes the size of your head, and savory, spicy hash browns that are to die for.
Outdoor Adventures
Black Bayou Lake National Wildlife Refuge and Kiroli Park
Order whatever you want; you’ll undoubtedly work it off with a day exploring Monroe’s beloved outdoors facilities. Black Bayou Lake National Wildlife Refuge is north of town heading towards a growing village called Sterlington. Black Bayou has several gorgeous walking trails, complete with educational placards along the way. Lighting at any time of the day is breathtaking and truly exhibits the beauty of Louisiana. You can also rent or bring your own canoes to get a closer look at some of the wildlife and foliage not seen from the piers.
If you’re looking for a quicker outdoor exploration, the 150-acre Kiroli Park out of West Monroe also has several beautiful walking trails that are exactly the enchanting escape from the city you never knew you needed. Growing up, I adored visiting the green house they maintain, as well as the train caboose that delighted my imagination.
fws.gov/refuge/black_bayou_lake
Landry Vineyards
This family-owned-and-operated vineyard welcomes visitors for wine tastings and tours to showcase their numerous wines, including some that expertly compliment Louisiana cooking like the Blanc Du Bois, or others like the Sweet Dixie White Muscadine, which highlight a grape native to the region. Be sure to check out their website for hours and fees, and if your timing’s right, you might also find yourself at one of the concerts the vineyard often hosts for locals.
More Museums
University of Louisiana at Monroe Museum of Natural History
If you’re still up for more exploring, head further down Desiard towards the University of Louisiana at Monroe, where you can check out the Museum of Natural History on campus. This museum displays a large collection of artifacts and specimens ranging from modern day to prehistoric. Before you leave, be sure to take in the bayou and cypress trees surrounding campus, which are adored by the students and faculty alike.
Chennault Aviation and Military Museum
Residing in one of the last school buildings from the Selman Field Navigational School, this museum “honors veterans and soldiers from WWI through Iraqi Freedom” and highlights the efforts of General Claire Chennault and the Flying Tigers during WWII. The museum emphasizes the importance of Northeast Louisiana’s involvement in military aviation and the development of Delta Airlines from a crop-dusting operation to one of the largest airlines in the world. This stop is adored by locals, and a veteran recently told me how much the experience meant to him.
Lunch on the Bayou
From the University, grab lunch at any of the places residing on the bayou—I suggest Waterfront Grill or Catahoula’s. An old favorite, Waterfront Grill has been serving Monroe Louisianan cuisine since 1997, and the view from the balcony seating is incredible at any time of the day. Catahoula’s sports burgers and sandwiches are perfect for a quick grab-and-go lunch, or to accompany an optimal view of the river. Further down resides Danken Trail—whose classic barbeque I grew up eating—featuring beef, pork, chicken, a plethora of sides, and a thin, tangy barbeque sauce my siblings and I used to practically drink. For coffee or even a lighter lunch, stop at Bayou Brew House. During the summer, my friend Katy and I lived at this place, and the staff’s friendly nature perfectly complements the space’s homey feel. We loved that we could walk in and post up in a corner booth for hours, enjoying each other’s company with perfectly-crafted lattés and muffins. They also offer lunch options, including soups and a highly-recommended club sandwich.
Sometimes, we’ve got to take a second look at the places around us to realize that even the smallest interactions, events, and histories can be treated as such uncovered treasures.
Returning home to Monroe was returning to a city that has not only grown, but a city that has always been resilient and filled with history and creativity. And this isn’t even all of it! Sometimes, we’ve got to take a second look at the places around us to realize that even the smallest interactions, events, and histories can be treated as such uncovered treasures. I want to leave you with this: Monroe is an ever-changing city filled with endless eateries, shops, boutiques, and ultimately wonderful people who love their city, and it will honestly serve you best to come and discover it for yourself.