Photo by Denny Culbert
French onion soup from Justine's New Orleans.
For a Cuisine issue dedicated to all things French, this mouthwatering shot by Denny Culbert of France’s most emblematic dish was totally irrésistible as a cover contender. This soupe de pauvres has origins in Roman societies—when abundantly-available onions were simmered in water and served as a flavorful broth. Per the enduring lore, the soup’s status was elevated to something fashionable when the former King of Poland Stanislas Leszczynski discovered a version of the dish in an inn on his way to Versailles—where he convinced court chefs to prepare it. A later version, more similar to what is typically served at restaurants today, became a standard late night offering in Parisian restaurants. Its reputation as a hangover remedy earned it the name soupe des ivrognes, “soup of drunks”.
Like many other French dishes, the soup made its way to “the New France” in Louisiana, too. A version is included in the circa 1900 Picayune Creole Cookbook—the oldest official authority on traditional French Creole cuisine. Culbert’s photograph is of the New Orleans brasserie Justine’s version—not currently on the menu but forever preserved in all its cozy, comfort-food indulgence. Bon appétit.
