Sip, Nibble, Repeat

The Northshore's bounty of bar bites

by

Recently, in a darkened pub, slatted afternoon sunlight filtering through the windows over the tables, some friends and I  were savoring our hour escape from our weekday jobs over a lunch of juicy Buffalo wings, a crispy softshell crab poboy, and homestyle meatloaf and mashed potatoes. At some point, the conversation shifted to how good the food was at our Northshore bars. 

In most major cities, cheese fries are a fixture on the bar menu, as are cheeseburgers—often in the stale, tasteless variety—staples that are all par for the course in a party setting, tolerable paired with the strength of the alcohol to wash it down. But fresh seafood, home-cooked meals, brunch, and hors d’oeuvres you would expect to find at an upscale party or bistro? Generous flavors that pair with your drink, rather than necessitate it?  Turns out, the menus of Northshore drinking establishments are littered with such not-so-hidden gems. So, on a mission I went, a personal bar crawl of sorts, to discover another tenet of this foodie paradise north of the lake.

Columbia Street Taproom/Seiler Bar (434 North Columbia Street, Covington): Columbia Street Taproom is a bar in every sense of the word, with live music most nights and tempting drink specials. This area pub, where our story and crawl begins, is casual and unpretentious, with well-worn tables, brick walls, and concrete floors. The bar may take up much of the space in the taproom, but this Downtown Covington fixture is also a popular lunch spot for casual tourists, local professionals, and Covington’s working class. Good, hearty food ranges from burgers and wraps to daily specials of meatloaf, softshell crab, and a delicious baked salmon with a side of buttery, fresh veggies. On Wednesdays, you can grab a beer along with 75 cent wings, but I elected for the Thursday night special: a half rack of tender ribs slathered in a piquant sauce, accompanied by a refreshingly sweet coleslaw, paired perfectly with the citrusy twinge of Bayou Teche’s flagship LA 31 brew. 

Situated right next door, the Seiler Bar is the Taproom’s upscale alter ego, serving up swanky drinks and dinner to the dressier crowd. The intimate, dimly lit setting, outfit recently made for a decadent, dressed-up dessert with friends. I ordered the Fruit and Cream dish, with local, juicy peaches and sweet figs dolloped with house-made whipped cream and a local, syrupy honeycomb to go with a Seiler Swizzles cocktail, made with Old New Orleans Amber Rum, fresh lime, Peychaud’s Bitters Falernum, and club soda.  I’ll plan my next visit—with an eye on the Corn and Softshell Crab Bisque—on a Wednesday, when bottles of wine are half off with any entreé.

The Southern Hotel/Cypress Bar (428 East Boston Street, Covington): One night after an art opening in Downtown Covington, I found myself in the moonlit, beautifully landscaped courtyard of The Southern Hotel’s Cypress Bar—drawn into a bygone era, sipping prosecco and nibbling on cheese and smoked meats, engaging in a lively conversation about art and life.  Elegant and historic, Covington’s trademark hotel just celebrated the fifth anniversary since its extravagant remodel in 2014, and boasts a lovely view and atmosphere in which to sip your drink and enjoy an appetizer. 

A glossy baby grand piano lends music to the space a few nights of the week, and muralist Grahame Ménage’s historic scenes of Covington’s past, stretching to the ceiling, transport one to blissful strolls along the lake and under shady moss-covered oaks.  The Cypress Bar has an extensive cocktail list, beer and whiskey tastings, and its fantastic small plate menu is crafted by the renowned Chef Jeffrey Hansell from the hotel’s chic southern bistro, Oxlot 9, featuring dishes like Pommes Frites, Fish-n-Chips, and Cheese & Charcuterie. 

[Read this: A wild and wonderful whistlestop tour of coastal Mississippi breweries]

Barrel Wine Bar (69305 LA-21, Covington): This Napa Valley-style wine tasting room and intimate bistro is nestled unassumingly in a strip mall along Hwy. 21, but don’t be fooled. Walk inside to a shaded and intimate French-inspired bistro adorned with local art on the brick walls and faux wood grained curtains that can be opened or closed depending on how dim or well-lit you would like your experience to be, the chic European feel enhanced by the decoupaged walls behind the bar. Barrel Wine offers nightly supper specials for $12 and plenty of weekly events like live music on Tuesdays and Thursdays, Special Sunday Brunch, and Foodie Fun nights on Wednesdays, which brings events like the bar’s popular Monthly Fried Chicken Dinners.

It’s a lovely setting for a romantic night out or a “wine” down with the girls—all the more fun during one of the establishment’s signature weekend Pop-Up Kitchens, which bring in talented local chefs to prepare a special culinary experience. Even better that we chose to attend on Bastille Day, to experience Chef Charmaigne Benson’s  French-inspired menu. We enjoyed the refreshingly crisp Cabernet Franc, Louis de Camponac Rosé from Southern France, and imagined ourselves transported to Paris for the weekend. The Champagne Chicken consisted of a pan sautéed chicken breast topped with wild mushrooms in a delicate, champagne-laced a la Forestiere sauce. The Quiche of the Day featured two personal-sized fresh-baked, creamy cheese and egg custard pastries served with Pommes Frites—fried potatoes salted with black truffle oil. For dessert, there was a choice between two delicious French delicacies: traditional Crepes Suzette and chocolate éclairs. We elected for the crepes, generously served and dripping with a boozy orange sauce set ablaze. The experience was enhanced all the more by Chef Charmaigne’s explanations of how and why each dish was crafted as it was.  

The Barley Oak/Old Rail Brewing Company (2101 Lakeshore Drive & 639 Girod Street, Mandeville): Located right on the lakefront in Mandeville, the Northshore’s only German-style pub fosters indulgent evenings sipping on a brew against the remarkable views of the sunset over Lake Pontchartrain. The balconied Barley Oak Bar is known to get hopping on Friday and Saturday nights, and its casual feel invites dressed-down outings with friends in the name of good food and beer. I gathered with friends on the balcony of the Barley Oak one recent Saturday night; we chose to split the German Sausage platter, featuring a tantalizing collection of grilled bratwurst, knockwurst, beef frank, thick slices of brie, hand sliced strawberries, and fresh sauerkraut served with Dijon mustard for dipping. My beer of choice is usually an Abita Purple Haze, but with a sudden impulse to branch out, I ordered the Terrapin Watermelon Gose.  The tangy hints of watermelon made it a refreshing summer choice. 

[Read this: A New Orleans Guide to Apéritifs]

As the night wore on, the balcony at the Barley Oak grew more and more packed, and—melting even under a setting Louisiana sun—we moved our party over to another Mandeville venue down the street from the Barley Oak,  Old Rail Brewing Company. As Barley Oak’s sister bar, Old Rail only serves beer brewed onsite. The old converted train station features booths made to look like train cars; it’s a quieter setting than the raucous Barley Oak. The nightly beer specials are written on chalkboard on the bar, with quirky names like the “Stories We Could Tell” Belgian Trippel—my choice for the evening. My friend ordered the “Cow Catcher” Chocolate Milk Stout. Of course, I tasted it, polished off my Trippel, and ordered my own Cow Catcher post-haste. Executive Chef Brett Monteleone’s menu features salads and pasta options as well as signature entrees like the Old Rail Burger and the Brisket Sloppy Joe, made with Old Rail’s own Hobo Helles beer-infused sauce. Leveling up from the charcuterie we had just enjoyed at Barley Oak, we ordered the Randazzo’s Pretzels and Boudin Balls with an ESB Mustard and house pickles, 

Abita Brew Pub (72011 Holly Street, Abita Springs): Abita Beer started here! The Abita Brewing Company opened in 1986, brewing and bottling their beer in this location until 1994 when it moved up the road to a dedicated and larger facility, where beer enthusiasts can still go on a guided tours and tastings. The brewery also has a taproom of its own, but the original site, now the Abita Brew Pub, became the 100-seat pub and a full-service restaurant that we know and love today. The bar is situated at the front of the pub, beckoning guests to sit down for a cold one, and the space contains suggestions of local brew culture in every corner—from the local art adorning the walls to the recycled Abita beer bottle candle holders to the beer keg pendant lamps above the bar. 

My recommendation for an appetizer? The Pub Pretzel— large and soft with butter and kosher salt, served with Abita Amber beer cheese. For dinner though, don’t bypass the Killer Burger, a thick, juicy burger grilled and topped with onion rings, pepper jack cheese, Abita’s own hot wing sauce, lettuce, tomato, and pickle, served with hand cut fries. For fruity beer lovers like myself, I’d suggest the Strawberry Lager, a Harvest Series beer on the menu made with real Louisiana Strawberry juice—yet another example of superior food and drink swirled together in delicious alchemy. Cheers! 

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