A Stroll Down Oak

Exploring New Orleans's historic Oak Street

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“From little acorns grow mighty oaks,” one proverb reads, aptly describing the flourishing of New Orleans’s Oak Street from the 1800s to present. From the Krewe of Oak’s Midsummer Mardi Gras celebration in August to the fifteen-years-strong Poboy Festival in November—not to mention all of the friendly entrepreneurs and local businesses dotting the street, Oak has been a valued piece of the Carrollton neighborhood for many years. Let’s take a walk, shall we?

The levee parallel to River Road makes for a scenic start. Many walk and bike this path, passing the occasional horseback rider. Eventually, the trail leads to  the storied Southport Hall. Southport opened as an illicit casino in the early 1900s and went on to harbor mafia connections and Freemasons before becoming the live music venue it is today. Inside, patrons can still see theoriginal counting room and antique keno board—all while enjoying performances by local bands.

Next, pass High Vintage, a high-end thrift frequently hosting sidewalk sales of one-of-a-kind garments. Call twenty-four hours ahead for an appointment to see their entire collection of vintage high fashion. Other quirky thrift-and-vintage shops on the route include Graffiti Graphics, Uptown Home Shop, and Glue Clothing Exchange. Of these, Glue and Graffiti Graphics offer the largest selection.

From the Krewe of Oak’s Midsummer Mardi Gras celebration in August to the fifteen-years-strong Poboy Festival in November—not to mention all of the friendly entrepreneurs and local businesses dotting the street, Oak has been a valued piece of the Carrollton neighborhood for many years.

Walk a little further on this side of Oak and you’ll reach a little free library (8717 Oak Street), ready to receive or give new titles to those wandering by. Euphorbia Kava Bar, a quiet spot that vends kava food and drink, sits across the street. Spend a few hours indulging in the assortment of board games there, either in the cozy lounge area or out in the courtyard. The kava root grows in the Pacific Islands and is a mild, though bitter, intoxicant that consumers say alleviates stress and anxiety, among other conditions. Follow up the kava with a belly-full of the offerings at Breads on Oak, an organic and vegan bakery with a VRBO guesthouse for rent. Keep walking and you’ll meet your first fusion meal option, Ajun Cajun—beloved for its delicious Japanese-Cajun creations and a BYOB, cafeteria-style dining experience.

[Read Samantha E. Krieger's story about the Chauvin Sculpture Garden here.]

Next, we’ll pass Yes Yoga, where I once attended a 105-degree class during a Louisiana summer. Stepping into the 90-degree weather afterwards, I thought, “Wow, this feels lovely, my brain must be broken.” This might have been a good time to pop into the neighboring New Orleans Zen Temple, which offers daily zazen (seated meditation) sessions and retreats. For those looking for something a little more upbeat, walk a little further and attend a dance class at Artivism Dance Theatre instead, with offerings for all ages, ranging from K-Pop Klubbin’ to Tango Fundamentals.

Now we’ve reached the most famed part of Oak, where two New Orleans institutions perch as neighbors: Jacques-Imo's Café and the Maple Leaf Bar. Part of the K-Paul’s “Nawlins-style” culinary legacy, Jacques Leonardi’s restaurant is one of the hottest tickets in town—offering classic entrées like étouffée, shrimp Creole, country fried venison, and, of course, blackened redfish.

Next door, “The Leaf,” as it’s often called, is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Since 1974, this live performance venue has served as an incubator for diverse local musical talent. The stage has range—you’re as likely to see a living legend, Grammy-award winning jazz performance as an up-and-comer performing their interpretation of the blues. Come on a Monday night to see Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award winner George Porter, Jr. and his trio.

If you drive by these two institutions at night, patrons are usually having such a good time that they’re standing in the middle of the street with no regard for cars. There’s even a permanently parked Jacques-Imo's truck out front, and the flatbed hosts a small table and chairs for the lucky couple who snags it first. If you’re really lucky, you might even experience the fruits of the massive streetside griddle: double-stacked paper plates cracking under the weight of a dozen charbroiled oysters. And sure, you could grab a drink from either bar, but if you’re seeking a more personalized recommendation, stop by Vino Fine Wine and Spirits. You can enjoy their complimentary tasting counter anytime you visit, in addition to paid wine and spirit tastings. Or reserve space in their wine cellar to watch sporting events on their eleven-foot television.

On this same block is also the can’t-be-missed Frenchy Gallery, featuring the quintessentially New Orleans works of painter Randy Leo Frechette, open by appointment.

About a block over is 14 Parishes, a restaurant named for the fourteen parishes of Jamaica—which also inspire the menu. Inside is a beautiful upstairs area called the Hummingbird Lounge which can be reserved for private events. If the lounge’s jewel tones and stained glass windows have you inspired, then hop on over to Eclectic Home next door—where you’ll find chic and modern furniture, decor, lighting, art, and accents.

Z’otz Cafe is next, the first of two coffee shops on Oak. For an intimate and eclectic vibe, settle in on the secret back patio with a mug of locally-roasted, fair trade, organic joe; and indulge in the small collection of books and board games. If little coffee-sipping gargoyles, high ceilings, and classical music are more your speed, you might try Rue De La Course at the other end of Oak instead. You’ll find it in the massive historic building that formerly housed the Marine Bank and Trust.

[Read Samantha E. Krieger's story about pick-your-own strawberry farms in Louisiana here.]

Don't miss the the kid-and-dog-friendly Oak Street Brewery, which partners with rotating food trucks and also invites customers to BYOF(ood). The microbrewery taproom is the retirement passion project of Kevin Greenaae, whose long history homebrewing has now culminated in Oak Street’s offerings of everything from lagers and wheats to Hefeweizens and IPAs. Enjoy a variety of activities here, such as pinball, trivia, darts, and board games.

Walking along, a pop inside More Fun Comics is a must—if only to say hello to Osteo, the resident leucistic ball python who calls the countertop his home. Explore this celebration of nerd culture with a wide selection of action figures, comic books, and video games (which you can play in the back). Across the street, grab a (walk-friendly) bite at Juan’s Flying Burrito, the city’s own “Creole taqueria.”

In a narrow alley nearby, you’ll find a tiny building filled to bursting with local artisans’ wares: we’ve arrived at Dimestore Cowgirl Trading Post. Jewelry, stickers, pottery, bags, greeting cards, art prints, skincare, oh my! The Post also recently partnered with Mary’s Rack to expand their offerings to curated, secondhand clothing and styling. I love coming here to idly browse or find gifts for friends.

Next, we’ll hit the izakaya establishment Sukeban. Japanese in origin, an izakaya is an informal hangout spot with drinks and small bites, and a sukeban is a “boss” or “delinquent girl.” The restaurant’s moniker is an homage to girl gangs who resisted societal norms in patriarchal Tokyo of the 1970s. These groups of women often patronized izakaya establishments, much like Sukeban, to grab a meal with friends. Sukeban’s owners also own the specialty Japanese knife and culinary shop Coutelier on the other end of Oak.

Nearby, Oak & Ale represents the recent merger between neighborhood institutions Oak Wine Bar and Ale on Oak—the two bars joined by a covered patio. And just across the street, you’ll find the woman-owned-and-operated Blue Cypress Books, an indie bookstore with a curated selection of secondhand and new modern literature, local writers and stories, children’s books, science fiction, cookbooks, and more. Be sure to say hello to bookstore cat Kitty Meow, have a chat with the booksellers, and mark your calendars for upcoming book clubs and author visits. You can also buy, sell, or trade books here.

A short detour to the right brings us to classic NOLA-Italian eatery and deli Cibo, whose sandwiches are the stuff of legend. After that, cross the streetcar tracks and walk on until you reach the New Orleans Photo Alliance, a teal and yellow cottage bursting from the sidewalk. In addition to organizing the eighteen-years strong PhotoNOLA photography festival, NOPA also offers periodic photography contests, educational programming, and use of their darkroom and gallery. Step inside to see their current exhibitions of local photographers.

We’re nearing the end of our walk, which means we must be at Snake and Jake’s Christmas Club Lounge, the late chef and author Anthony Bourdain’s favorite bar. Its ever-twinkling red string lights beckon patrons inside… or is it the bar pups making the rounds for their pets? This dive also has a large foliage-covered back courtyard for when pleasant weather strikes.

Oak Street’s offerings are both diverse and numerous, far beyond the scope of a single walk. Had we needed a trim or new ink, we could have visited Family Barber Shop or Space Tiger Tattoos, respectively. Those seeking relaxation also have their choice of two spas: Body Bistro and Jade Magnolia, not to mention a handful of acupuncture and salon spots as well. Planning a wedding? One could order custom letterpress stationery from Eglantine Rose, then arrangements from Thibodeaux’s Floral Studio. Oak Street meets even our most basic needs, too, from Castellon Pharmacy to Canseco’s Market, as well as Haase’s, which has been selling baby clothes and shoes for six generations. Want to learn guitar? Visit New Orleans Guitar Studio for a lesson.

What is next on the horizon for this little acorn of a street? Six new businesses are preparing to make their home here: The Crystal Shoppe (rocks and crystals), The Old Alker Distillery (primarily distilling rum and whiskey, but also gin, vodka, craft cocktails, and a line of liqueurs), Plenty Planties (exotic plants and the hair/body products made from them), Aguasanta (Mexican and Latin American fusion cuisine), Flavio Dolce Art Projects (an art gallery), and Neutral Ground Coffeehouse’s relocation from its former Danneel Street building (known for their Sunday open mic nights and other music events). You’ll have to join me on another stroll once they arrive. Come hungry, and ready for plenty of adventures.