On the Dock of the Bay

A gulf coast town rediscovering its mojo

by

When I was a girl, everybody’s grandparents had a weekend place in Bay St. Louis. Although ours was across the bridge in Pass Christian, we spent many a summer day crabbing in the Bay and running barefoot through the town sucking down snowballs and corndogs. Bay St. Louis circa 2024 is a bit more sophisticated. But the quintessential y’all-come-back-now-ya-hear friendliness of its residents has held fast. 

As long as anyone can remember, the Mississippi Gulf Coast served as a summer playground for New Orleanians longing to escape the city. That is until 2005, when Hurricane Katrina slammed ashore, all but erasing the tiny coastal communities from the earth. The sixty-two miles of coastline along the Gulf of Mexico was left unrecognizable with nary a home or business standing. In many cases, even the beaches themselves were washed away. 

Yet, in the years since, tenacious Gulf Coasters have crawled out from under the wreckage to rebuild their towns and, in many cases, redefine them. Today, places like Bay St. Louis, Mississippi are more charming, more funky, and more nuanced than ever. And judging by the national headlines declaring the Bay the “Best Girlfriend Getaway”, “Best Honeymoon Destination”, one of the “Best Small Towns in the South”, and “Best Coastal Towns” I’m not the only one who thinks so. 

Festivals in Bay St. Louis

When trip planning, it’s hard to find a weekend on the calendar when there isn’t a festival in Bay St. Louis—often requiring a costume. The second Saturday of each month, the city hosts an art walk that has been organized by the Old Town Merchants Association for over thirty years and features food vendors, street musicians, and gallery openings. 

Coming up, there’s Frida Fest, scheduled for July 13 this year, where townsfolk and visitors break out their best Frida Kahlo costume. The day is jampacked with Frida-themed fun including a Frida 5Kahlo run, special Frida food and drink, a Frida look-alike contest and parade, and art demonstrations with all proceeds going to charity. 

The first weekend in September, the historic 100 Men Hall hosts Booker Fest—honoring the musical genius of James Booker. Then, fall festival season comes to a head in October with Cruisin’ the Coast—drawing hundreds of nostalgic hotrods to Bay St. Louis for “America’s Largest Block Party”. 

[Read our February 2023 story on 100 Men Hall, here.]

A few weeks later, just before Halloween, the antique cars are replaced by witches and warlocks for the Witches Walk. In November, 100 Men Hall hosts a Veteran’s Day fundraiser called “Cigars Under the Stars” featuring local cigars for sale and live music performances. Celebrations continue through January, when, in honor of Dolly Parton's birthday, the town fills with Dolly lookalikes for Dolly Should (because Dolly should spend her birthday in the Bay one year). May brings in offroad enthusiasts for Jeepin’ the Coast and a host of buccaneers for Pirate Day in the Bay, a weekend festival hosted by the Mystic Krewe of the Seahorse in which “pirates” invade and host a series of events including live concerts, parades, costume contests, and more. And June brings Caftans and Cocktails, a popular bar crawl which sees the town flowing in floral fabric and gaudy accoutrement as girls and guys dress as Mrs. Roper from Three’s Company.

On Beach Boulevard

Less than an hour from New Orleans, this soulful little waterfront community has always associated itself more with the Crescent City than with the rest of Mississippi, echoing New Orleans’s spirit in its architecture, cuisine, music, and nightlife. (Cocktails in go-cups? No problem.) The Bay today offers live music seven nights a week in its bars, restaurants, and casinos. Golf carts are parked bumper to bumper along Beach Boulevard, dogs welcome everywhere, and most of the crowd holds a libation in their hand. Come the weekend, you’d be hard pressed to find a bar or restaurant that isn’t hosting a bachelor and bachelorette party. And of the summer cottages and bungalows that did survive Katrina, many are now bed and breakfasts, at least part of the time, welcoming guests from around the globe. 

Our accommodations at the luxurious Pearl Hotel included a showstopping sunrise over the harbor directly across from our balcony. Along the lively Beach Boulevard, restaurants like 200 North Beach, Cuz’s, The Thorny Oyster, The Blind Tiger, and Beachside at Bouy’s offer Gulf-to-table cuisine including crabs, oysters, and many types of fish fresh from the waters only feet from where you sit, with Royal Red Shrimp reigning as king.

[If you're planning a trip to the Mississippi Gulf Coast, brush up on your restaurant know-how with this story from our 2023 Cuisine Issue: "There's Something in the Water—A foodie’s guide to the Mississippi Gulf Coast"]

Downtown

When you visit The Bay, plan to leave extra space in your suitcase or car. The highly-walkable downtown is crammed with art galleries, antique shops, gift shops, and clothing boutiques. The Shops at Century Hall feature three rambling stories of antiques, gifts, and original artwork. In Gallery 220, find creations by multiple Gulf Coast artists and artisans. If you’re looking for a playful gift for friends back home, don’t miss Social Chair, an Old Town staple filled to the brim with jewelry, home décor, and one-of-a-kind gifts. And Fleurty Girl’s Bay St. Louis location adds some South Mississippi flavor to its popular NOLA gear and googa. 

My niece from Atlanta and daughter from New Orleans swear they find the same clothing brands they love in the Bay, but for considerably less. We especially enjoyed Bay-Tique, with its upscale resort-wear collection, and California Drawstrings, a cotton, linen, and silk clothing line with origins at the 1984 World’s Fair in New Orleans. The circa-1928 L & N Train Depot is a must-stop. Inside, discover a Mardi Gras museum (There’s that NOLA influence again.), as well as the delightful Alice Moseley Folk Art & Antique Museum on the second floor, with over eighty works by the iconic Mississippi folk artist and humorist. Both are free.  

Walking Tours

During my stay, my sister and I enjoyed two walking tours. The “Taste of Time Food Walking Tour” took us through Old Town and the Depot District while we listened to tales of Bay St. Louis from the Civil War era until now, popping into predetermined locations for samples of the food and drink of the area. The tour included sample portions of roast beef po-boys from the Butcher Shop, sausage and chicken gumbo from The Blind Tiger, and pralines from Popcorn Plus—followed by coffee at PJ's Coffee.

That night, we met our ghoulish guide on the waterfront for the Mystic Ghost Tour, which unveiled some goosebump-worthy tales, such as that of the Union soldier who’s often seen under a massive oak in a certain courtyard and the last man hanged in Mississippi, who peers from the old courthouse windows at night. We were disappointed not to see any specters ourselves, but it was a lovely night and amazing to realize that three women could stroll around town in the dark with no fear for our safety.

Historical Sites

Begun in 1894 by a group of local African American men, 100 Men Hall was originally established as a death and burial association (DBA). It emerged as a place for the local Black community to come together, pool their resources, and take care of one another during a dark time in the state’s history. Over the years, 100 Men Hall has been many things, including a dance hall and juke joint that helped launch the careers of music greats such as James Brown, Ray Charles, Etta James, Ernie Kato, James Booker, Sam Cooke, Tina Turner, and B.B. King. Today, the hall is open for live music events, weddings, tours, and an eclectic assortment of festivals.

Just a short drive from the Hall is St. Augustine Seminary, founded in 1923 by the Brothers of the Divine World Missionaries with the sole purpose of educating African American, and later Vietnamese and Hispanic, men to enter the Catholic priesthood. Even today, many of the Black priests and brothers in this country obtained their training at St. Augustine, and nine of its graduates have become Catholic bishops. The chapel, buildings, and extensive grounds now operate as a retreat center. Just across town is another such significant site, St. Rose de Lima Catholic Church, which was originally established in the 1860s as a school for African American children. Weekly mass is still celebrated there. 

Beyond the shopping and historical sites, you can also enjoy Bay St. Louis’s many outdoor amenities. Schedule a sunset champagne cruise, rent a kayak, charter a fishing boat, visit the casino, play some golf, or just enjoy a little downtime in a soulful coastal community.  Learn more at coastalmississippi.org.