Paul Christiansen
Light displays at Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri.
For two months each year, the mountain town of Branson, Missouri is said to light up the sky, transforming into a magical wonderland deep in the heart of the Ozarks, rivaling the most dazzling of Hallmark’s carefully crafted holiday settings. Last year, my husband and I slipped away to find out if all the hype was true, and we discovered an enchanted city alive with the spirit of the season.
We kicked off our first night out at Dolly Parton’s Stampede, a family-friendly, rodeo-style dinner show. As soon as we settled into our seats, the horses launched into the arena, the trick riders standing in their saddles and directing their steeds to jump, apparently effortlessly, through flaming hoops. On cue, the waiters entered in a choreographed phalanx, working their way down the rows with the precision of soldiers going into battle. Within minutes, we had the evening’s first course of vegetable soup and a hot biscuit, with the directive: “There’s no spoons at the Stampede. You have to grab, dip, and sip.”
The food and entertainment flowed from that point onward, mesmerizing our senses with equestrian feats and daring aerial shows intermingled with comedy bits and a culinary centerpiece of a full rotisserie chicken for each person (and yes, I nearly ate it all!). We stomped our boots in support of our South Pole horse racing team and finished the evening watching the costumed actors present a Christmas pageant second to none.
After the long day of driving, followed by a whirlwind of entertainment, we unwound before bed on our balcony at the Westgate Branson Woods Resort. Our one-bedroom grand villa was pure luxury, with a king-size bed and jacuzzi tub tucked away beside a full kitchen, dining room, and den complete with a fireplace. The resort is a destination in itself, 145 acres with an abundance of activities, including two pools, basketball and shuffleboard courts, a game room, and hiking trails. The Activities Center offers daily crafts, Bingo, comedy shows, and more, while full-day excursions showcase the best of Branson. There’s even a pizza joint and a marketplace (serving up Starbucks coffee) inside the Wilderness Lodge.
Friday dawned with cool, crisp mountain air, and we enjoyed pastries by the outdoor firepit before setting off for Branson’s premiere attraction—Silver Dollar City. Today an amusement park known for hosting world-class festivals, the 100-acre park had much humbler beginnings as a “hole in the ground.” Marvel Cave, one of the tallest caves in the United States, lies directly below Silver Dollar City and was the area’s original draw when it opened to tours in 1894. The village opened in 1960 as a place for visitors to explore while waiting their turn to view Marvel Cave.
Paul Christiansen
Modeled on the idea of the 1880s pioneer town that once existed at the entrance to Marvel Cave, Silver Dollar City is renowned for its 100 resident demonstrating craftsmen, who forge steel, carve wood, create lye soap and candles, and whip up taffy, chocolate, and other candies.
Aside from the cave and theme park, Silver Dollar City also offers a water park, campground, and dinner cruise known as the Showboat Branson Belle. Designed after an 1800s grand paddlewheeler, the Branson Belle loops around man-made Table Rock Lake, affording unparallelled views of the Ozarks and one of the country’s top bass-fishing destinations. We started the morning here, watching a bald eagle take flight as we pulled away from the dock.
The boat’s interior opened into a large dinner theatre, where we gorged on another outstanding three-course meal while laughing off the calories. Christopher James, who touts his show as “Funny Hyper Magic,” encouraged full audience participation as he captivated the crowd with magic feats and side-splitting comedy acts. Meanwhile, professional dancers took us on a journey of the top hits and accompanying dances from the 1960s to today. During intermission, we ascended to the boat’s deck to lounge in Adirondack chairs and enjoy more expansive lake views.
After returning to dry land, we browsed the specialty shops at the White River Landing before setting off for Silver Dollar City proper. From November 2 to December 30, the theme park hosts an Old Time Christmas with a sing-along steam train, seasonal treats, and more than 6.5 million lights. 1.5 million of those twinkling bulbs light up every inch of Midtown, with fifty-foot light tunnels, flying angels, and galloping reindeer. Nearby, at Town Square, an eight story animated Christmas tree shines center stage as Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer leads a nightly parade of illuminated floats and costumed characters.
Modeled on the idea of the 1880s pioneer town that once existed at the entrance to Marvel Cave, Silver Dollar City is renowned for its 100 resident demonstrating craftsmen, who forge steel, carve wood, create lye soap and candles, and whip up taffy, chocolate, and other candies. Affectionately called “citizens,” many of the workers are Silver Dollar City lifers, who each earn a shop named for them after twenty-five years and a dogwood tree planted after fifty years.
The main path winds past the citizens at work and more tasty treats than you can imagine, including the park’s famous skillet meals. Meanwhile, spur roads jut off to reveal a plethora of thrilling roller coasters (check out the newest, record-setting Fire in the Hole), rides that spin and plunge, and family-friendly alternatives for the younger crew (and those faint of heart like myself!). A favorite is Grandfather’s Mansion, an upside-down world with slanted floors that will hysterically destroy your sense of equilibrium.
Did I mention the forty live shows held daily at the park? We opted for A Dickens’ Christmas Carol and were fully amazed by the Broadway-caliber cast, falling in love with Tiny Tim and rooting for Scrooge’s transformation. The show let out just in time for us to make it to Town Square, where we joined the crowd cheering on the passing Christmas parade.
Not ready to leave, we hurried to catch the tour of Marvel Cave, which initially descends 300 feet into the largest cave entrance in the United States. The stairwell is quite daunting, and I couldn’t imagine the original explorers who came in with nothing more than lanterns to illuminate their path. While we wove our way through the cave, the guide regaled us with stories of early spelunkers who sought to mine marble here but found only valuable bat guano. The journey out was nearly as exciting as the cave itself, as we all boarded a cable train that pulled us back to the surface.
Paul Christiansen
The Showboat Branson Belle at Silver Dollar City.
Saturday started with a homestyle country brunch at Billy Gail’s Cafe, home of fourteen-inch pancakes and famous fried chicken, before we set off on Westgate’s waterfall trail, which follows a tributary of Roark Creek along the backside of the property. We started at the viewing platform, watching the water trickle over the edge of the moss-covered stones to the clear pool a short distance below. Then we descended to the creek, walking the leaf-strewn water’s edge as we followed the trail back to our room.
We decided to explore historic downtown Branson next, traveling to Main Street, where we bought gifts for the kids in Dick’s 5 & 10, browsed the elegant clothing in the Victorian House, and picked up an afternoon coffee in the neighboring Victorian-themed Pie Safe. Our final feast brought us to Guy Fieri’s Branson Kitchen & Bar. We nearly fought over the final chip of the Trash Can Nachos and left with enough of our pulled pork sandwiches to provide a delectable lunch for our return home the following day.
The night wasn’t over yet, though. We set out to walk the lakeside mall at Branson Landing, window-shopping at Bass Pro Shops and debating whether I’d really wear those gorgeous embroidered cowboy boots at Boot Barn. Heading back to Westgate, we veered off to see the “Lights of Joy” Christmas Drive-Thru, a mile-long light trail offering a whimsical display of colorful LED characters flickering in the evening’s darkness.
The town was fast asleep as we headed out early Sunday for our long drive home to New Orleans, but the season’s magic was still palpable in the air. Glancing back at the scenic town below, we bid farewell to this wholesome winter fairyland, shimmering behind us like a holiday dream in the morning mountain mist.
Disclaimer: This trip was hosted and partially funded by Westgate Resorts and Silver Dollar City, though the opinions of the writer are entirely her own and formed independently of this fact.
