Map painting by Kourtney Zimmerman
The Atchafalaya River Basin is a wild place. No roads, hardly a human, the occasional houseboat—just seemingly endless miles of twisting bayous and cypress-filled lakes, the home of black bears, eagles, and alligators. The area is comprised of one million acres of boggy forest—and, amazingly, about half of it is public land, accessible to all.
The best way to view the wild basin, in my experience, is from the bow of a canoe or kayak, gliding just a bit faster than the current. At that pace, I can hear birds gathered in the trees, fish splashing on the water’s surface. Even the smells of the swamp—pollen from flowers and the aroma of the mud—are perceptible. Blazing through the Basin in a motor boat dampens that irreplaceable experience. As a paddler, the feeling of solitude is ubiquitous—often, I’m the only one out there. There are scores of waterways to explore, but here I’ve gathered together a few that are easily accessible and accommodate paths for a wide range of skill levels.
Atchafalaya River
The basin’s life-source is the Atchafalaya River. A tributary of the Mississippi River, it branches off near Simmesport, then meanders south for 140 miles before spilling into the Gulf of Mexico via the Atchafalaya Delta and Wax Lake Outlet.
Cory Werk, experienced kayaker and owner of Bayou Teche Experience, normally starts his River paddle at the boat landing in Krotz Springs, then follows the current south to Butte La Rose. “The Atchafalaya River really doesn’t have that much boat traffic on it,” he said. “The solitude is my favorite part. You’ll see eagles and all kinds of wildlife.”
The journey from Krotz Springs to Butte La Rose is approximately a twenty-mile trip, which can take two or three days, depending on water levels and the speed of the current. If you want a longer trip though, keep going to Berwick, which will make for an approximately sixty-mile trip, lasting five days or more. Look for campsites along the batture, the area between the river and the levee, where—when the water is low you’ll see sandy beaches exposed (visit atchafalaya.org/camping for a list of designated public campsites).
Werk noted that only experienced paddlers should take on the river due to its unexpected currents, cold temperatures, and sheer power. Paddlers should always wear a life vest and navigation lights when visibility is low. Since cell reception can be spotty, an emergency communication device is a helpful tool, too.
But, all in all, the river is a relatively easy paddle, Werk said. The current is swift, meaning you can cover some serious mileage without too much effort. There aren’t any surprise turns as the route simply follows the river channel, with a single hang right as the Whiskey Bay Pilot Channel continues south while the smaller, historic Atchafalaya River channel meanders toward Butte La Rose. However, if continuing onto Berwick, side channels begin to develop that shoot off the principal one. So, be sure to carry a map to know what to expect farther south.
Bayou Benoit
For beginners, Bayou Benoit is a great option due to its accessibility and the requirement of just a few technical skills to spend a day on the water. “Almost as soon as you launch you’re paddling in cypress trees,” Werk says.
The Bayou Benoit boat launch is north of Lake Dauterive, just adjacent to the Atchafalaya River Basin levee. From the landing, paddle north for as long as you’d like before retracing the path. Although a popular destination for motorized boats, too, once paddlers enter the cypress forest to the north, traffic all but ceases.
Indian Bayou
Just west of Henderson, within the Basin’s levees, there are nearly 30,000 acres of public land owned by the Army Corps of Engineers called Indian Bayou. Within the boundaries, you’ll find Henderson Lake, recognizable from the drive across I-10. But there’s much more to be explored—little-known coulees and sloughs snaking through the bottomland hardwood forests and cypress swamps.
As a paddler, the feeling of solitude is ubiquitous—often, I’m the only one out there.
North of Henderson along the levee lies the West Dixie Launch which provides access to the interior of Indian Bayou. Here, you’ll find a seven-mile loop trail, best for intermediate paddlers and perfect for a morning outing. Paddle east down the straight West Dixie Canal before taking a left on Bayou Fusilier. Continue clockwise with a right into Lake Fordoche, continuing into Bayou Fordoche, before veering right again onto Fusilier. The West Dixie Canal will appear on the left, taking you to the boat launch.
“Because it’s disconnected from a lot of boat traffic, you have more opportunities to see wading birds in the cypress trees,” said Ben Pierce, executive director with Louisiana Swamp Base. “Although—as the crow flies—you’re only about a mile from the levee, it feels like you’re in a completely different world.”
Along the way, Pierce said you’ll find a nice swimming hole on Lake Fordoche, which is around three hundred feet wide and a quarter-mile long. “It’s pretty narrow and long, but a great spot to stop and take a swim.” Pierce advised to keep an eye out for alligators, though, if deciding to take a dip. bsaswampbase.org/bayou-fusilier-swamp
Big Cypress Loop
McGee’s Swamp Tours is positioned on a tiny sliver of dry land near the Atchafalaya River Basin levee. From here, paddlers have easy access to the Big Cypress Loop, a 3.6-mile trek through a cypress forest. Along the way, you’ll spot osprey nests atop the trees while the canopy blocks the wind, creating a sensation of utter seclusion.
“I love Lake Martin, but I have to put the Big Cypress Loop up there with it,” Pierce said.
With the low mileage and its proximity to I-10, this trail is ideal for beginners, or for anyone looking for a short afternoon paddle. From McGee’s, parallel the levee before taking a right into the forest. Pick your way around the trees before emerging into open water on the way back to the landing. Longer excursions are possible by simply continuing through the trees. bsaswampbase.org/big-cypress-loop
Grand River Upper Flat
On the east side of the Atchafalaya River Basin, closer to Baton Rouge, sits the Grand River Upper Flat.
From the boat launch near the levee, paddle west down Grand River and take a right that leads north to the flat. From there, you can explore the surrounding swamp. “It’s really big water but there are a lot of cypress trees out there,” Pierce said. “One of my favorite things about the Upper Flat are the massive trunks of trees, remnants from logging around one hundred years ago.”
Pierce recommended a 10.4-mile loop through the swamp, though it can easily be shortened or extended.
Two O’Clock Bayou
The launch for Two O’Clock Bayou is off of Highway 190 between Krotz Springs and Port Barre, accessible from the Highway 71 exit. Pierce said due to its location, he hardly sees any other boat traffic. “I’ll find fishermen once in a while,” he said. “There is a primordial jungle feeling to the paddle. There are big oak branches and cypress trees and wading birds.”
Paddle south down Two O’Clock Bayou, continuing to Close Lake for a four- to six-mile paddle, taking as long as you’d like. Along the way, you can explore Cowan Bay before taking the bayou back to the boat launch.
Editor’s note: While around half of the Atchafalaya Basin is owned by the state as public land, and public navigable waterways abound, those parcels are often abutted by private property. Due to fluctuating water levels, at times it can be difficult to determine if you’re trespassing or not. Consult the Louisiana Office of State Lands website (doa.la.gov) to find maps detailing property lines.
