1993: Olive Oil, America's New Craze is 5,000 Years Old

This story was selected by the Country Roads magazine editorial team as the representative piece for 1993 in the archival project "40 Stories From 40 Years"—celebrating the magazine's 40th anniversary on stands. Click here to read more stories from the project.

One lazy Sunday morning I was reading the paper and glanced over the household hints column which is always amusing to me…don’t these people have anything better to do with old panty hose? (Throw them away!)

This one, however, caught my eye with a headline, “How Long to Keep Garlic and Olive Oil.” I’ve always kept a bottle of oil full of garlic cloves within easy reach of my stove. 

According to this article, it seems I’ve been making a life-threatening mistake, risking bacterial growth and possible food poisoning. It recommended storing garlic and oil in the refrigerator for no more than 24 hours, and listed the authority as none other than the International Olive Oil Council. There’s even an olive oil hotline number (1-800-232-6548) to call if you’re facing an olive oil crisis. I decided to call. Soon, I received a packet of information–but nowhere did it warn me about the 24 hour hazard. Why were they trying to scare me? 

I decided to do some homework. Recently I attended a food show for culinary professionals and picked up some recipes from booths featuring the Italian olive oils of Bertoli and Filippo Berio, “Oils of Aloha” Macadamia Nut Oil from Hawaii and a variety of oils–rice bran, sunflower, safflower, peanut, sesame and walnut made by Loriva Supreme Foods. So the packet I received combined with the literature from the show, gave me more information about oils than I’ll ever need to know. 

Louisiana cooks have always loved olive oil. Possibly because of its low content of saturated fat, it’s the fastest growing segment of cooking oil in supermarkets across the country. Sales have more than doubled in the last two years. 

Olive oil is not just a recent “yuppie” discovery. It’s been consumed in the Mediterranean countries for 5000 years. The “Mediterranean Diet” has been touted by the Harvard School of Public Health because the rate of heart disease among Mediterranean people is among the lowest in the world. Still, recent studies have shown that most people make dietary choices based on taste rather than nutritional value, so it may be the only condiment that tastes good and is actually good for us. Olive oil was also used in ancient civilizations as a body ointment and to heal wounds. The early Egyptians used olive oil to ease the movement of the great stones used to build the pyramids. Ancient Greeks burned olive oil in lamps as a source of light and throughout the Mediterranean Basin the luster and beauty of wood from the olive tree was prized by cabinet makers. Of course, at today’s prices, we may choose to limit the use of our olive oil to more edible pleasures. 

[Find a more recent recipe for olive salad from Chef Donald Link of Pêche here.]

Olives are like grapes, except with olives, the green olive is actually the unripened fruit. There are different kinds. They grow in different solids and climates. Like wines, therefore, olive oils vary according to the olives used. And, like wines, you have to taste them to know them. 

Try tasting a cross section of olive oils–from several countries and from these different grades: 

“Extra Virgin”– obtained from the fruit of the olive tree under controlled temperature conditions in a single pressing. It offers the most robust flavors and aromas, is green/gold in color and has less than 1% acidity. 

“Virgin”– obtained the same way as Extra Virgin. Good flavors and aromas – slightly less robust. Slightly higher in acidity. 

“Olive Oil” or “Pure Olive Oil” is a blend of refined olive oil and Virgin Olive Oil. 

“Extra Light” Olive Oil – is a lighter taste, not less in calories, to provide more versatility in frying and baking. 

“Olive Pomace Oil” Pomace is the portion of the olive that remains after the first pressing. Additional oil is then extracted and blended with Virgin Olive Oil. It is produced at a lower cost than “Olive Oil.” 

As a general rule, the deeper the color, the more intense the “fruitiness” or taste of the olive. Therefore, fry or bake with “Olive Oil” or other more neutral tasting oils; season or drizzle with “Extra Virgin” olive oils, nut oils, or herb infused oils when food is served. 

STORING OILS 

Oils should be kept in a cool, dark, cupboard. As it’s unlikely that you can find a cool, dark place anywhere in Louisiana, good oils may be kept in your refrigerator. Any cloudiness which occurs during refrigeration quickly disappears when the oil returns to room temperature. You can even freeze olive oil in a small plastic container and when it thickens, use as a spread. Oils purchases in plastic bottles or tins should be transferred to dry, sterilized glass jars or bottles then stored in the refrigerator. 

HERB OR GARLIC INFUSED OILS 

Now, enlightened, I can share with you how to avoid poisoning yourself. It’s easy. Just add your choice of herbs – rosemary, tarragon, basil, garlic cloves – to a “pure olive oil” (save the ExtraVirgin stuff for drizzling, remember?), in a sterile glass jar or wine bottle. Seal with plastic wrap and rubber bands. Store in the refrigerator for 10 days to a month to allow flavor to develop. 

Strain the oil through a coffee filter, return to a dry sterilized glass jar, and refrigerate. Your herbed or garlic olive oil will keep for several months. 

If you’d like to think about making some of these delightful oils for holiday gifts, now is the time to make them so they can be flavorful by Christmas. You might refer to Marinades (The Crossing Press, $14.95), a large paperback cookbook by Jim Tarantino, which is full of recipes for dry rubs, infused vinegars and oils and dozens of marinades. 

THE NEW “UNBUTTER” SPREADS

For years, the most original way of serving french bread was with garlic butter. That’s old. What’s new are the unbutter spreads served by fine restaurants all over the place. Customers are speaking these tasty butter alternatives on their bread, or dunking crackers and crudites into ramekins containing all sorts of olive oil-based concoctions which are healthier, tastier and easy to make. Here are recipes for just a few:  

CURRIED CARROT SPREAD 

The carrot of the '90s. No longer just a vegetable course, it’s showing up as an appetizer. 

2 cups sliced carrots

2 cups diced onions 

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ cup chicken broth 

½ teaspoon chopped fresh ginger 

½ teaspoon curry powder

salt and white pepper to taste 

Saute carrots and onions in oil for 5-8 minutes. Add chicken broth and ginger, and set to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until carrots are very tender. Stir in curry, mixing well. Puree the carrot mixture and adjust seasoning. Cool and refrigerate. Serve with pita, crackers or bread. Makes 2 cups. 

CANNELLINI BEAN DIP 

Reprinted from the Bertolli Olive Oil Handbook 

1 can (19) ounces white kidney beans, drained and rinsed

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 

3 teaspoons Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil 

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried oregano

pinch of salt 

Combine beans, lemon juice, 2 teaspoons of the olive oil, garlic, half of the oregano and salt in food processor. Process until smooth. Spread in a small shallow bowl and drizzle with remaining olive oil on top. Sprinkle with the remaining oregano and serve on toasted French bread or as a dip with vegetables.  

EGGPLANT CAVIAR

2 eggplants

¼ cup minced scallions 

1 clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon dried basil 

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut 2 eggplants in half lengthwise, place on baking sheet, cut-side down and bake for 20 minutes. Scoop out pulp and puree food in food processor. Add other ingredients to blend. Chill and serve.  

SUN-DRIED TOMATO TAPENADE

Recipe by Flippo Berio Olive-Oil 

Makes 2 cups 

1 cup loosely packed unsalted sun-dried tomatoes (not oil packed)

2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil or 1 ½ teaspoons dried

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped Italian parsley

2 teaspoons capers, drained & rinsed 

4 anchovies, rinsed and coarsely chopped

⅛ teaspoon Tabasco Sauce

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 

Pour ½ cups boiling water over sun-dried tomatoes in a small bowl. Let stand 30 minutes, until completely soft. Drain well, reserving liquid, and transfer to blender or food processor. Add garlic, basil, parsley, capers, anchovies. Worcestershire and Tabasco. Process until coarsely chopped, adding four or five tablespoons of the reserved soaking liquid as needed to make a thick paste. Blend in the olive oil for flavor, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately or chill. 

WHOLE WHEAT OR ROSEMARY FOCACCIA 

Focaccia is a delicious flat bread made with yeast. Topped simply with herbs, sauteed garlic, chopped olives, or other toppings like the spreads above, it is popular all over Italy where it is served as a snack. With our warm weather, let it rise on the porch or a sunny window, free from drafts. 

1 cup warm water

1 tablespoon water

1 envelope dry yeast

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cups all-purpose flour or more as needed 

½ cup whole wheat flour 

1 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary

1 garlic clove, finely chopped 

In a large bowl combine water and sugar, sprinkle with dry yeast. Let stand 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil, flour and salt. Sit, adding more flour, if needed, to make a soft dough. Knead dough on a lightly floured board until it is smooth and soft, about 8 minutes. Rub olive oil around the inside of a large bowl and add the dough. Cover and let stand in a warm spot until double in bulk, about 1 hour. 

Meanwhile, preheat the oven 400 degrees. Combine the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, rosemary and garlic in a small skillet; heat, stirring, over low heat until garlic begins to sizzle. Set side and cool. When dough is ready, punch down, place in center of a non-stick baking sheet and stretch or roll into a 12-inch circle. Brush with the rosemary and garlic oil mixture. Bake on bottom oven rack until browned and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool on wire rack, cut into 2-inch squares.  

OIL AS MARINADES WITH WINE AND HERBS

Almost any meat or fish can be enhanced by letting it rest for about an hour in a flavorful combination of oil, wine and fresh or dried herbs. The combined acids in the oil and wine tenderize the meat. Small amounts of the marinade can then be used to saute or baste or as the base of a sauce. 

Cookbook author Jim Tarantino restates that wines that don’t taste good to drink should not be used as marinades, but he has other good advice, as well. If using a red wine, he suggests young full-bodied reds, such as Rhones, Châteauneuf de Papes, Riojas and Chianti Reservas. THey don’t have to be expensive, just young. He also suggests dry white wines such as Sauvignon Blancs and light wines such as Rieslings and Sauternes, which work particularly well as a substitute for rice wine vinegar - in marinades as well as salad dressings. Good Chardonnays and champagnes wasted in marinades as their distinct flavors get lost in the blending of aromatic herbs and oils. Save them for drinking. Some fortified wines, such as port, sherry, madeira and marsala make good marinades, but they’re sweet and their strength can be domineering, so should be used judiciously. 

WINE & OIL TASTING AT SHADETREE

For those of you who are interested in comparing the different olive oils with other oils and sample some Italian and Mediterranean recipes made with olive oil, including Focaccia, Flagon’s is holding a tasting of Italian wines and a variety of oils on October 26 at The Shadetree in St. Francisville.