Enter The Francis

The first thing you'll notice about The Francis, which opened Monday on the corner of U.S. Highway 61 and Commerce Street in St. Francisville, is that it’s big. With a façade towering forty-five feet above the intersection and seating for 250 inside and out, passers-by could be forgiven for assuming that construction had required felling the lovely live oak tree that was formerly this corner’s most prominent resident. But step to the restaurant’s rear and there it is, unscathed, sinuous limbs forming a graceful canopy above a superb outdoor terrace. “The whole project really revolved around that tree. It’s our centerpiece,” said Gregory Martinez, co-owner of The Francis with partner Jason Jackson. “Live oaks are such a symbol of Louisiana, so we wanted to do our best not only to preserve the tree, but also to make it beneficial to our use.” The building consists of two wings that literally wrap around the oak, with a central deck providing seating for sixty beneath its branches. Martinez explained that the 360-degree bar that encircles the tree trunk serves dual purposes: protecting the tree and providing a station from which to serve drinks and boiled seafood. Inside, The Francis offers seating for 150–200 on two levels, with additional seating on a front balcony for thirty more.

A big restaurant calls for a big menu, and here The Francis doesn't mess about either. Dishes reflect a well-executed “Southern table” approach with some contemporary twists. Start with duck confit eggrolls or blackened tuna served rare with wasabi Tabasco. Louisiana oysters served raw on the half shell or chargrilled are a first for St. Francisville. Soups include crawfish bisque (complete with stuffed heads!) as well as seafood and duck-and-andouille gumbos. Dishes like jumbo lump crabcakes and Bayou Sara shrimp scampi put Louisiana seafood front and center. Especially welcome: the salads here are flavorsome, creative, and anything but an afterthought. The menu also includes a barbecue section courtesy of the well-regarded Francis Smokehouse, which remains open just up the block. Flavors are robust; portions bordering on the heroic.

By Tuesday evening of day two, The Francis' tables were already full, with long lines for tables snaking away from the hostess stations; so we can forgive the fact that service was a little slow while the staff gets everything dialed in. But with a great menu and handsome dining settings, it’s safe to assume that competition for a seat upstairs, downstairs, and especially under that lovely live oak will be fierce for a long time to come. 6799 U.S. Highway 61. (225) 245-5046 or the Francis Southern Table & Bar on Facebook for updates.