The Craft Beer Revolution in Louisiana
Prior to Prohibition, New Orleans was the king of the south when it came to hometown brews. More than thirty breweries populated the city including Dixie, JAX and Falstaff. Most eventually fell into bankruptcy; brewing giants took over the industry and American lagers populated store shelves across the country. The late 1990s and early 2000s saw a resurgence of smaller breweries. These microbreweries began producing many full-flavored and distinct beers that paired well with food, with seasonal beers and special limited edition beers on offer, too.
With the exception of Abita, one of the granddaddies of microbrews, Louisiana found itself largely outside the craft beer movement. But over the past couple of years, all of that has changed. Breweries have been popping up all over South Louisiana, crafting unique beers with distinct local flavors.
Louisiana has a rich culinary heritage, so the fact that microbreweries have been slow to materialize is puzzling. Andrew Godley, owner and brewmaster of Parish Brewing Company of Broussard says, “It definitely wasn’t the demand for craft beers that held production back in Louisiana.”
Kirk Coco, president of NOLA Brewing, says state laws make it hard for a brewery to start really small and gradually build production. In other states, homebrewers and brew pubs can sell beer directly to customers. “To make a profit breweries must start production at a level where a distributor would be willing to represent the brewery,” Coco said. He also initially had trouble finding financial support for his brewery because no one thought he could compete with Abita. “What they didn’t realize is that craft beer drinkers are incredibly promiscuous and like to constantly try new things. In reality, there’s room for Abita, but there is also room for many other breweries.”
Karlos Knott, the brewmaster for Bayou Teche Bière gives a much simpler explanation for the slow growth of the craft beer movement in the South, “The food is bland in other places. You have to have a nice beer to have a decent meal. Here the food is so good, beer wasn’t needed to make a great meal.”
Whatever the reason for the initial slow growth, the tide has turned and there are many local options for the craft beer drinker.
Abita Beer
Abita Springs, La
Founded: 1986
Yearly Production: 125,000 barrels of beer; 8,000 barrels of root beer
Distribution: Available in 46 states and Puerto Rico
Popular Brews: Abita Amber; Purple Haze; Jockamo
Abita is definitely the old man on the block compared to Louisiana’s other craft breweries. They now brew seven flagship beers, five seasonals, three harvests made with homegrown ingredients such as strawberries and satsumas, four “big beers” in 22-ounce bottles, root beer, as well as a special select series. With such an overwhelming resume it is hard to determine Abita’s greatest accomplishment during their 26-year history, but company spokesperson Beth Harris still remembers way back when they were small, “In 1996, I came to Louisiana and you could only find Purple Haze on tap. It was a special treat when you actually got to enjoy a pint.” Following the trend of many microbreweries, Amber, Purple Haze, and Jockamo are now available in cans, which better suit the outdoor South Louisiana lifestyle. Abita and local restaurants also partner to host beer dinners. Harris says, “Our beer really stands up to the food pairings and doesn’t back down or become overwhelmed like some wines.”
Parish Brewing Company
Broussard, La
Founded: 2008; selling beer 2010
Yearly Production: 3,000 barrels
Distribution: Available in Lafayette, Baton Rouge and New Orleans
Popular Brew: Canebrake
Andrew Godley was a chemical engineer by day and a craft beer enthusiast by night. After ten years of working for “the man” he decided it was time for a change, and founded Parish Brewing Company. He is the owner, brewmaster, mechanic, and janitor. He took his passion for beer and his love of chemistry and began brewing beers so unique it is hard to fit them into specific categories. Parish’s signature beer, Canebrake, is an American wheat with notes of honey, spice, and citrus on the finish. This beer is brewed with local Steen’s cane syrup and pairs best with spicy seafood. Canebrake is so popular; it is hard for Godley to keep up with demand, but he has still managed to grow his brewery. While he focuses mostly on supplying kegs to local eateries and bars; he has just started bottling in limited amounts and will begin selling South Coast, an amber ale, in a couple of months. He is also cooking up a Grand Reserve Ale for the holidays. It will be a 10% alcohol by volume beer available in 750 ml champagne bottles, limited to about 2,000 bottles.
NOLA Brewing Company
New Orleans, La
Founded: 2009
Yearly Production: 7,000 barrels
Distribution: Available as far east as the Florida panhandle and northeast Alabama
Popular Brews: NOLA Blonde; NOLA Brown
Kirk Coco, one of the founders of NOLA Brewing, describes his first experience drinking a craft beer as “an awakening.” He was an LSU student with ten dollars in his pocket when he ordered a Chimay at The Chimes in Baton Rouge. After that microbrews quickly replaced the Miller ponies and Dixie he used to swipe from his dad. NOLA now brews an entire line of beers, but Coco’s favorite is the NOLA Brown because it is light for a brown ale and can be consumed in the summertime, which he notes is about nine months out of the year in New Orleans. In early fall, NOLA plans to release Mechahopzilla, a double IPA, and down the line there are also plans for a high gravity line of beers with a higher alcohol volume.
Bayou Teche
Arnaudville, La
Founded: 2009; selling beer in 2010
Yearly Production: 3,000 barrels
Distribution: As far east as Atlanta and Florida
Popular Brews: LA 31 Bière, Pâle; Boucanée
When Karlos Knott, the brewmaster at Bayou Teche, is asked about the biggest accomplishment of the brewery, he says, “We have a family business. We built a little utopia.” Knott developed a taste for craft beer while stationed in Germany and the Pacific Northwest in the Army. After his discharge, he returned to Acadiana and began brewing. Bayou Teche beers are meant to pair with food. Knott suggests their Boucanée, a cherry smoked wheat beer with Spanish blue cheese. For a more classic pairing, try a LA-31 Biere Pâle with a really good gumbo. When asked how the brewery developed a following he said, “Meeting people works best. In Louisiana, we are a social people. The family goes to beer events and we just go meet people.” The Knott family has also been busy building a new brewery that will be on line in 2013. In August, Bayou Teche will release an homage to their homeland, Acadie. It is a French-style Bière de Garde that loves food. Further down the road, Knott might like to produce an English style beer. But he does warn, “Brewing an English beer might send my grandparents, who spoke only French, rolling in their grave.”
Tin Roof Brewing Company
Baton Rouge, La
Founded: 2010
Yearly Production: 1,500 Barrels
Distribution: As far north as Monroe and as far west as Lake Charles
Popular Brews: Perfect Tin Amber Ale; Voodoo Bengal Pale Ale
Childhood friends Charles Caldwell and William McGehee dreamed about starting a brewery in Baton Rouge for years. After several years of hard work, they started to sell their first batches of beer in November 2010. Their flagship beers Perfect Tin Amber, Voodoo Bengal Pale Ale and Tin Roof Blonde are now all available in cans. Their newest seasonal creation, Watermelon Wheat can only be found in kegs this year, but the demand has been so strong that next year they will begin canning it as well. Their next endeavor is a coffee porter, a dark English beer flavored with CoolBrew coffee from New Orleans. This partnership formed when both companies found themselves doing a tasting at Whole Foods. McGehee says he’s been pleased to see the company quickly build a name for itself. “Seeing our tap handles at local bars and restaurants is incredible,” he says.
Heiner Brau
Covington, La Founded: 2005
Yearly Production: 5,000 Barrels
Distribution: As far east as Alabama
Popular Brews: Kolsch; Covington Brewhouse Strawberry Ale
Heiner Brau has continued the proud tradition of brewing on Louisiana’s German Coast. Their owner and brewmaster Henryk “Heiner” Orlik is one of a handful of German brewmasters working in the U.S. In addition to flagship and seasonal beers; they also brew special restaurant beers for Chef John Besh and Zea’s. While Kolsch, a classic light German beer started Heiner Brau’s tradition, their Strawberry Ale has become their most popular brew. It pairs best with salads and light foods but also shines with spicy boiled seafood. Despite their commercial success, Rob Mingo, a member of the owner group says the biggest achievement lies close to home. “Our greatest accomplishment is becoming a part of downtown Covington,” he says.
With most of these beers available (or soon to be available) in local stores, the future seems bright for craft brewing in Louisiana. Coco of NOLA Brewing says he expects the number of brews offered will only increase. “In five or ten years, buying craft beer will almost be like buying wine, you will walk into a store and there will be hundreds of options available,” he says.