Café Sbisa
Glen Hogh is a man of many passions. He adores stunning architecture; ardently absorbs various cultures and their history; is lured to lush landscaping; and is quite taken with travel. He’s also mad for music and hot for art; but most of all, he is fervently obsessed with food.
As the chef-owner of the enormously successful restaurant, Vega Tapas Cafe for the past thirteen years, the news that Hogh was reopening the beloved century-old Café Sbisa in the lower French Quarter evoked responses of absolute exhilaration.
The circumstances paint a bright picture for the future of the revered restaurant that had been shuttered since Katrina. Hogh heard from a good friend that the long-time owners of the property, Craig and Charles Napoli, might be open to an offer to sell the business.
Hogh’s friend, Regina Keever—co-owner of Bayona restaurant with super star chef Susan Spicer, also suggested Hogh partner with her son, Michael Mauberret and his business partner, Jake Frank, who would operate Sbisa’s bar. Keever even helped facilitate the sale.
The excellent staff Hogh assembled includes two top-notch chefs, Will Sampson, executive sous chef who cooked at Vega eleven years; and Jeffrey Wagner, sous chef, a seven-year Brigtsen’s alumnus who then went on to the executive chef position at Calas Bistro in Kenner.
The historic property, situated across from the French Market in what was then the financial center of the city, was constructed in 1820 as a ship’s chandler on the lower floors with the proprietor’s family residence occupying the upper floors.
Over time, the business changed but continued to cater to seafarers, reputedly as a bank where sailors could stash their pay and as a bar with a brothel upstairs. During the building’s long history, the interior was changed many times to suit the existing occupants.
The Sbisa family acquired the building in the late nineteenth century and opened the cafe in 1899. For more than one hundred years, the storied café, which has operated under several owners, has played host to diners from throughout the world seeking a memorable repast in historic and captivating surroundings.
The interior’s exposed beams, old brick walls, antique mirrors and other fixtures reflect “old New Orleans” at its most enchanting. Second and third floor balconies overlook the old French Market and the thriving Decatur street corridor.
Perhaps the restaurant’s most extraordinary physical feature and its centerpiece is the magnificent carved century–old mahogany, mirrored bar backdrop and the splendid work of art above it that’s visible from both the first and second floors.
An extraordinary, dramatic George Dureau triptych spanning the length of the long mirror portrays previous owners, staff, and friends of the artist (including the artist, himself) at Café Sbisa. The central painting takes a leap into fantasy with the addition of several interesting visitors, whom Dureau dreamed up. Dureau had not named the thirty-year-old canvas until recently, but likes the title, “Strangers in Our Midst: Café Sbisa, New Orleans.”
Café Sbisa’s tradition of serving satisfying Creole food is foremost to Hogh, a New Orleans native and an exceptionally talented culinary artist who takes pride in recreating the excitement that the restaurant has long held for its many devotees. The newest incarnation of the restaurant serves both classic as well as contemporary Creole cuisine.
Although Hogh’s long-term restaurant, Vega Tapas Café, is Spanish, he is equally at home with Creole as well as a variety of other cuisines.
But his earliest culinary inclinations were to follow his Mom in the kitchen with gumbo and other Creole food, taking inspiration from her cooking and that of his two grandmothers.
“The kitchen was the most fascinating room in the house for me. My grandmother made the most fabulous crawfish bisque,” he recalls. His home was the site of many family gatherings and celebrations and he assisted his mom in the preparations and getting everything ready on time.
Many of those flavors and aromas from his childhood stayed with him all these years. For example, the flourless chocolate cake he makes at Café Sbisa is adapted from one his maternal grandmother made, and the sweet potato bread pudding at Vega Tapas is a slight modification of one from his paternal grandmother.
In addition to his kitchen duties at home, young Glen spent time helping out at his uncle’s Metairie restaurant, Vincenzo’s, and also working as a bus boy and dishwasher at the old Sal and Sam’s on Veterans Boulevarrd.
Although he spent a lot of time in his Mom’s kitchen and in restaurants when he was growing up, he said, “I got a little taste of what being a chef was like, but as a kid, I just didn’t think that would eventually become the line of work I would choose.”
Always attracted to plants and greenery, Hogh majored in horticulture at LSU. After graduation he moved to Washington D.C. where he did commercial landscape design for about five years. He also worked for several architectural firms. But he missed New Orleans, both the food and the vibe, and came back.
He was encouraged by several of his friends who were buying old properties, renovating them and reselling, so he entered the field.
But he couldn’t stay away from food. He joined Anne Stouse, former Chez Nous co-owner, who operated Louisiana Reel Catering, a film catering company that prepared meals on location for film crews and production companies. A consummate artist, he also did food stylings for national clients.
But after four or five years of buying, renovating and selling houses, and working as a chef besides, it got to be too much and he decided to just go with his first love.
Alison Vega worked with Owner-Chef Daniel Bonnot at Chez Daniel before founding her namesake restaurant in the same block, Vega Tapas Café. Hogh joined Vega—initially part-time, but that quickly became full-time. Then Vega went on two maternity leaves, back-to-back, and Hogh eventually bought the restaurant.
“I was drawn to Spanish culture. I’m not Spanish, but I know Spain,” said Hogh, who’s traveled throughout that country on many occasions. “I grew up with south Louisiana cuisine but I appreciate and enjoy emulating other cultures so I wanted to solidify my approach at Vega by taking New Orleans’ indigenous foods ‘Spanish.’”
The menu at Café Sbisa, he notes, “represents our understanding of New Orleans’ food using lots of local products and ingredients.” Sbisa’s cooks make their own charcuterie in house, including andouille and house-cured duck pastrami. In fact, for duck lovers, the menu offers a number of alluring choices
An appetizer, the duck pastrami with orange mustard flavored with fresh juniper, brown sugar and black peppercorns, is served atop Susan Spicer’s WildFlour bread that’s been toasted and buttered.
The menu features classics like shrimp Remoulade and the Sbisa crab cake, which is anything but the old pasty, bready crab cake many may remember from lesser dining establishments. These are not really cakes, but compositions of lump crab and just the right amount of seasonings that seem to be held together by air, served with a mixed cabbage slaw and whole grain mustard sauce.
Oysters Sbisa, a dish from the restaurant’s previous menu that Hogh reconstructed, showcases lightly crisped Gulf oysters tossed in an essence of Pernod over creamed spinach with Applewood smoked bacon.
Hogh’s stuffed eggplant is half of a Japanese aubergine, roasted down with a bit of miso, then stuffed with duck confit cooked until it falls off the bone, with a melted foie béchamel and basil pesto.
The seared Hudson Valley foie gras, served with a rhubarb apple chutney and green tomato marmalade with croustades is one of the best in town and a fine value as well.
Appetizers also include steamed mussels in white wine butter with capers and shallots, fresh dill and a side order of crusty pommes frites; and sautéed veal sweetbreads with wild mushrooms, onions, crispy prosciutto and sherry butter.
Salads featured are an apple and brie with leeks and greens; roasted beet and goat cheese with baby spinach and candied walnuts; iceberg and Stilton with Gorgonzola-peppercorn dressing; and a seared scallop with greens, almonds and dried tomato vinaigrette.
The smoked duck and andouille gumbo, a classic by anyone’s standards, is a taste of history. The ducks are smoked outside in Café Sbisa’s patio, and left to drip off much of their fat before being added to the dish.
Hogh, in his inimitable style, created a new Creole soup for Sbisa’s menu: red wine crab bisque, made with the liquid from crabs that were deglazed with a bit of red wine, great seafood stock, crabmeat, seasonings and a bit of cream.
The tantalizing parade of Creole specialties continues with entrée selections that include a cold smoked, then breaded and fried soft shell crab; pan roasted fresh Gulf fish over a black-eyed pea ragout; glazed semi-boneless Louisiana quail stuffed with pecan Chorizo wild rice over sweet potato mash; and a vol-au-vent filled with exotic mushrooms and Madiera cream.
There’s also bouillabaisse with Gulf Shrimp, fish, mussels and scallops in a savory saffron-tinged broth; roasted rabbit leg; seared diver scallops with wild mushroom ragout and roasted corn grits; New York strip steak with Stilton mornay sauce; and Gulf shrimp epice’—jumbo BBQ style shrimp in a spicy andouille cream around a focaccia biscuit.
In addition, evening specials abound. On a recent evening, grilled trout on a wilted apple and celery slaw with fig butter; escargots Bordelaise; and marinated wild mushrooms with truffle oil and shaved granna padano were among the six hot and three cold special dishes offered.
Besides Hogh’s grandmother-inspired chocolate sin cake and sweet potato bread pudding, other desserts diners can choose are bananas Foster coconut tart, crème brulée, and a cheese plate.
The food-loving Hogh said running a restaurant certainly entails a lot of work but returns many rewards. “This is a ‘feel good’ business. I consider myself fortunate. It’s such a plus: people who come in want to be entertained; they want to be happy; they want a wonderful experience.”
Hogh understands that a successful restaurant requires high quality products, good value and consistency. Having great style and presenting creative cuisine doesn’t hurt either. “You just gotta’ love it; it’s got to be your passion,” he said.
Both with Vega Tapas Café and now, Café Sbisa, Hogh knows that having a singular concept and being true to it is important. In fact, Sbisa’s popular brunch will return soon.
“With a place like Café Sbisa in the French Quarter that is as locally known and venerated, I want to cultivate the aspects that people always loved about it: an approachable menu and staff, a good casual dining experience; and friendly pricing,” he said.
“The vibe is the same, but the quality is definitely elevated,” he added, and so far, guests’ reactions have indicated total agreement.
Details.Details.Details.
Café Sbisa 1011 Decatur St. New Orleans, La (504) 522-5565 Open Wednesday—Sunday 5:30pm–1 am. Closed Monday & Tuesday Most cards accepted. Reservations recommended but not necessary.