Barcadia
Curbside Burgers finds a home between Pac Man and pinball
No one ever really grows up. They just do a better job of hiding their inner Peter Pan. Part of a small chain (which has its first location in Dallas, after Katrina delayed plans for a New Orleans flagship), the newly opened Barcadia at the North Gates of LSU gives would-be adults a chance to play some of their favorite childhood video games while enjoying a pint and the best bar food in town.
At the door, patrons are greeted by red and black damask wallpaper that richly drapes the venue and gives the establishment the feel of an 1890s supper club. Posters of 1950s pinup girls preside over the bar. Outside on the porch, customers play giant Connect Four games or build Jenga towers out of segments of two-by-fours that climb toward the ceiling. But the crowning touch to this sophisticated man cave is the vintage arcade games that line the perimeter. For a couple of quarters, visitors can relive the joy that comes from being able to help Pac-Man successfully navigate his maze or throw down some hand-to-hand combat moves in the street fighting game Tekken.
The long bar flows down the entire side wall and features twenty-four beers on tap as well as a signature cocktail menu. Offerings include mango sangria, strawberry moonshine lemonade, and the staff favorite, The Melon Mule, which features melon vodka, ginger beer, and lime—a crisp carbonated drink with a fruity finish.
Despite the aforementioned well-tweaked nuances, the real jewel in the Barcadia crown is the menu, presided over by Nick Hufft, executive chef and founder of Baton Rouge’s standout food truck Curbside Burgers. Hufft’s menu takes the idea of basic bar food and elevates it to a gastronomic pub-goers dream. “We focus on scratch-made American food. We make our own bacon, smoke our own turkey. We make almost everything in house,” Hufft said. “We focus on food that pairs well with a pint.”
Their beer-battered, fried Wisconsin cheese curds leave all other forms of fried cheese in the dust. Raw unaged cheddar is lightly battered and served with a slightly sweet marinara. “I had the opportunity to taste cheese curds in Chicago about five years ago,” Hufft said. “They just make a great little bar snack.”
Barcadia’s take on Buffalo wings results in an updated, more complex version of the bar favorite. Perfectly fried, the wings are then tossed in a traditional hot sauce that has been augmented with hints of Asian flavor, including Szechuan peppercorns, sesame oil, and soy sauce.
The true showstoppers of the menu are the Curbside burgers. After a two-year absence (Hufft left Baton Rouge to run the kitchen in New Orleans’ Barcadia), Hufft has brought his iconic food-truck burger menu back to Baton Rouge. Everything from the buns to the produce is locally sourced. Meat is ground in house and their distinctive condiments, like pork belly preserves and praline bacon, are made on site. Favorites include The K.G.B., which is topped with cheddar and praline bacon, then crowned with a perfectly cooked over-easy egg. The Brian 2.0 features Curbside’s signature pork belly preserves, blue cheese, and onion strings. All burgers are cooked to order and are paired with fresh-cut fries and house-made pickles.
Hufft curated the sandwich menu with the same attention to detail. The prime rib French dip is composed of twenty-eight-day dry-aged prime rib that is roasted, thinly sliced, and topped with Swiss cheese, onions, pepper, and Parmesan and served au jus. The Manager’s Special starts with marble rye bread and is topped with house-made pastrami, aged Swiss, and Abita Andygator deli mustard.
Healthier options are included on Barcadia’s salad menu. The Asian tuna salad features sesame seared tuna and wonton strips served over a bed of mixed greens, carrots, red peppers, and cilantro; it is completed with freshly made sesame ginger dressing.
Technically, Barcadia does not have a dessert menu, but there is one appetizer that more than fits the bill. The King’s version of Billy’s Fried PB+J is a strong contender for best dessert in Baton Rouge. Peanut butter, bananas, honey, and bacon are incased in a thick white bread, deep fried, cut into four wedges, topped with powdered sugar, and served with an eight-ounce carton of vitamin D milk. It is a childhood delight all grown up.
Both professionals and students are taken with the delights of Barcadia and have welcomed the new venue with open arms. “We are in a great part of town,” Hufft said. “It is nice to see the north side of campus develop and showcase so many different, cool, local food venues.”
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3347 Highland Road • Baton Rouge
601 Tchoupitoulas Street • New Orleans