Downtown Upturn

New Orleans, viewed as an entity, is a diverse city. It is also a city of neighborhoods, each with its own customs. In some ‘hoods, the residents even have their own patois with a slightly different accent and slate of slang terms that define their ways of life. Often, succeeding generations of extended families live in the same neighborhood for many years. When Junior graduates from school, gets a good job, marries, and decides to buy a house, it’s often in the neighborhood where his “Momma-and-‘em” still reside.

For decades, the old neighborhoods of the Faubourg Marigny and Bywater appeared to maintain the status quo. Real estate values remained manageable, and generations of working-class residents treasured their enclave downriver from the city’s bustling center. In the mid-twentieth century, when French Quarter housing became too pricey, musicians and artists, alongside chefs and other restaurant workers, also moved into the area.

After Katrina and the levee failures, the neighborhoods began shifting. In the Marigny Triangle just below the Quarter—bounded by Esplanade Avenue, St. Claude, and Elysian Fields—the Frenchmen Street corridor had already become an attraction for its live music venues, casual dining, artsy shops, and galleries. Post-K, the corridor soared with the enthusiasm of young people who discovered anew what were frequently referred to as “hipster hangouts.” Add to the mix an influx of new residents, and suffice it to say, property values have skyrocketed.

Insiders will tell you that there’s a lot more going on in the colorful Marigny-Bywater neighborhoods than the hubbub on Frenchmen Street. For visitors and other outside observers, the refurbished, nineteenth-century architecture with wall-to-wall classic shotgun dwellings, camelbacks, Creole cottages, and a smattering of two-story, Victorian-style residences is a compelling reason to explore the area. There are also corner pubs and edgy dive bars, wine shops, street markets and festivals, art openings, quirky costume and antique shops, Markey Park, and the newly developed Crescent Park along the Mississippi River, which offers some of the most stunning views of New Orleans’ skyline in the region.

Amidst all the other entertaining sights and activities, a slew of fascinating dining options awaits hungry visitors. Following are some dining tips and information that can add to the pleasures of a Marigny-Bywater neighborhood adventure.

Begin with a cocktail or glass of wine or beer while choosing among the delicious appetizers: pan-seared crab cake with remoulade, crawfish fritters with Crystal aioli, truffled fries, tempura onion rings, oyster shooters, boudin balls, or fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade.

Featured sandwiches are a fried oyster BLT with house-made bacon; the Coonass, with slow-cooked cochon de lait and mirliton slaw; Frenchmen poboy with fried green tomatoes and fried shrimp; New Yorker with house-made pastrami and purple slaw on ciabatta; burgers; and more. Large plates offered include barbecue shrimp and grits, crawfish Marigny, red beans and rice with andouille, and a fish of the day. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Live music nightly; reservations recommended. 640 Frenchmen Street. (504) 945-4472.

MAUREPAS FOODS

Perhaps the place that kicked off the neighborhood-restaurant boom, Maurepas Foods is a centerpiece in the Bywater community. Chef-owner Michael Doyle offers a menu of primarily small plates sporting dishes composed of fresh, local ingredients.

Some recent favorites include goat tacos with green tomatoes and cilantro harissa as well as a chicken leg quarter with grits, market greens, and slow-poached egg. Several larger plates showcase flavors such as Gulf fish with smoked eggplant vinaigrette and pickled ginger; duck meatballs with cabbage and oatmeal porridge; and lamb and fries. The house-made ice creams are a special treat.

Brunch is served weekends with such delights as steak and eggs; cornbread French toast with ham and duck egg; breakfast tacos with scrambled eggs; and pork shoulder and eggs with a fried oyster biscuit and Hollandaise sauce.

Cocktails are hand crafted and a number of craft beers are available on tap. Open weekdays 5 pm–midnight. Brunch on Saturday and Sunday, 10 am–3 pm. Weekend dining 3 pm–midnight. Closed Wednesday. 3200 Burgundy Street. 504 267-0072.

OXALIS

Just around the corner, rustic does not begin to describe the Bywater vibe at Oxalis. This place could never happen anywhere else. The restaurant is very dimly lit with an overwhelming share of Lower Dauphine Street ambience. Past the first two rooms is a patio dining area, then into a back bar, and out onto a second fountain-featured deck. It is what it seems: a loose connection of old buildings converted into a dining, eating, and socializing emporium for the neighborhood crowd.

The emphasis here is first on cocktails, and there is a wide array of house-designed craft drinks. The wine list is certainly complete, with at least one bottle from most of the world’s fine grape-growing regions.

The cuisine at Oxalis is suitable for every taste. Without an infinite number of choices, the available options are fresh, creative, and tasty. The Korean wings and the house kimchi sauce are a revelation. The burger, while not large, is excellent and obviously made on site from the freshest beef.

Begin your drinking and dining experience with the Cajun-spiced hot buttered rum popcorn, the pickle jar, or the spiced bar nuts. The sweet potato poutine is a fine accompaniment to many menu items. Open seven days for dinner, 4 pm–11 pm. 3162 Dauphine Street. (504) 267-4776.

THE FRANKLIN

The Franklin, which opened in the past year, has already staked a claim as the Marigny’s best new bistro. Although a casual, neighborhood haunt, the place sets just the right tone with its elegantly designed interior, dim lighting, and dramatic art splashed on its high walls. The long bar beckons with crafty cocktails, brews, and an excellent wine list.

The Franklin’s menu primarily features small plates along with tasty, inventive entrée fare, often with a bit of whimsy for good measure. Some favorites: avocado tempura with lump crabmeat; coq au vin with lardons and fried onion rings; grilled shrimp and grits with smoked tomato and bacon; and seared pork loin with Brussels sprouts, bacon, and blue cheese. Oysters are available raw, fried, and grilled. In addition, an array of daily specials appears on a blackboard. Dinner and late-night dining from 6 pm–midnight. Closed Wednesday. 2600 Dauphine Street. (504) 267-0640.

MARIZA

Located on the ground floor of the spectacular, architecturally acclaimed, historic Rice Mill Lofts building, Mariza was named one of Esquire Magazine’s 2013 Best New Restaurants in America. Proprietor and Chef Ian Schnoeblen, one of Food & Wine’s 2006 Ten Best New Chefs in America, prepares inspired Italian cuisine created from fresh, local ingredients along with fresh seafood, house-cured Italian meats, house-made bread, and pasta.

Schnoeblen and partner/wife Laurie Cassebonne, passionate Bywater residents for more than a decade, have fashioned an inviting casual environment in the refurbished, yet rustic space. Most dishes are small plates, but many are offered in two sizes. Favorites:  duck ragout pappardelle; short rib rigatoni; lamb meatballs with poached egg, quail, and pancetta; and vegetable lasagna. Don’t miss the raw bar. Craft cocktails and a good wine list round out the offerings. Open Tuesday–Saturday: dinner only, no reservations. 2900 Chartres Street. (504) 598-5700.

OTHER COOL CHOICES

The Praline Connection—Creole soul food. 542 Frenchmen Street. (504) 943-3034.

Snug Harbor—Modern jazz, booze, and burgers. 626 Frenchmen Street. (504) 949-0696.

Three Muses—Live music, food, and drinks. 536 Frenchmen Street. (504) 252-4801.

Dat Dog—Hot dogs, any which way you can imagine. 601 Frenchmen Street. (504) 309-3362.

Sukho Thai—Thai to die for. 1913 Royal Street. (504) 948-9309.

Silk Road—The path to heavenly Indian food. 2483 Royal Street. (504) 944-6666.

The Joint—Best barbecue ever. 701 Mazant Street. (504) 949-3232.

Elizabeth’s—Good breakfast. 801 Gallier Street. (504) 944-9272.

Satsuma—Healthy eating. 3218 Dauphine Street. (504) 304-5962.

Bacchanal—Outdoor seating, great wines, and food with live music nightly. 600 Poland Avenue. (504) 948-9111. 

Pizza Delicious—The name says it all. 617 Piety Street. (504) 676-8482.

Bao Noodle—An Asian occasion. 2700 Chartres Street. (504) 272-0004.