Where Big Hearts Meet

Here is everything I found in just one bar in in the Bywater:

A dressmaker to whip me up some copycat frocks; a bon vivant lawyer turned tour guide with a vast knowledge of NOLA lore; an Australian-born artist who recently had a show of local landscapes at a swanky Julia Street gallery; a guitar player who is also a wizard at restoring tarnished copper pots; a playmate for my dog Pearl named El Chapo, and an artist who painted the duo’s portrait, a piece of folk art that is one of my most treasured possessions. And on some Mondays, some of the best red beans around, prepared by one of the owners—a gentle giant of a man who cooks for the cadre of oddball regulars as well as anyone else who happens to wander in.

The repository for all of this astonishing neighborhood intel is Vaughan’s Lounge, just one of the winning tap rooms that stitches an eclectic community together in this historic slice of New Orleans, bordered roughly by the Mississippi River and the Industrial Canal, St. Claude Avenue and the railroad tracks that abut the Marigny rectangle.

In the early nineties, when I first discovered New Orleans, this section of the Upper Ninth Ward seemed like the hinterlands—even though it was less than two miles from the Marigny where I would eventually settle when I (finally) moved to the city in 2011 from Philadelphia. In the early days, I’d venture to see Kermit Ruffins at his then-regular Thursday night gig at Vaughan’s and worry, with good reason, about the likelihood of getting a cab to show up in this part of town at the end of the night.

[Read this story about how to explore the nearby neighborhood, the Marigny, here.]

Now, this ramshackle neighborhood along the river is beyond discovered, though its boho character is still, for the most part, intact. Folks tend to be drawn to the Bywater for its hodgepodge of Creole cottages and shotguns, keeping company with the small, locally-owned businesses that thrum with New Orleans vitality.

In recent years, real estate prices have skyrocketed, and locals fret about the area losing its NOLA-specific cache, as hulking condos and big apartment developments crowd out river views. I’m happy I bought when I did, almost five years ago, on a block that is a mix of long-time residents and transplants like myself.

Despite changes, the neighborhood’s funky charm endures. This is where the Krewe of Red Beans steps off on Lundi Gras and where its official Beanlandia krewe den and community center is located. It’s where Grammy award-winning musician Jon Cleary has long called home and where James Beard award-winning chef Nina Compton lives and opened her second restaurant, Bywater American Bistro.

Here are some of my favorite places in my neighborhood, spots that bring Bywater’s eclectic appeal into sharp focus.

Eats, Homey to Haute

Begin your feasting at Bywater Bakery, a deeply-embedded neighborhood hub thanks to Chaya Conrad’s irresistible cakes, Friday bagels, and menu of savories like shrimp and grits and a killer Cuban. But it’s her love of community and her husband Alton Osborne’s deep connections with local musicians that elevate the space to a community staple. There’s live music most weekends around midday.

At Alma, Chef Melissa Araujo pays homage to her Honduran roots with polished Latin fare. The pretty little café serves breakfast and lunch every day and stays open for dinner Thursday through Sunday. The homemade Fritas Hondureñas—fried flour tortillas with refried beans, crema and queso—is stellar; same for the Pastelitos de Carne (a Honduran take on meat pies) and the fried chicken sammie.

What’s not to like about the cheap eats at Frady’s, a hole-in-the-wall on the corner of Piety and Dauphine? What’s important is that the breakfast sandwiches and po-boys are made to order, and the sides are pure comfort (mac and cheese, deviled eggs, fries with gravy). Plate lunch options change daily, and the service is real deal New Orleans friendly.

Elizabeth’s has long been a brunch go-to for its terrific Bloody Marys, praline bacon, and copious portions. Try the “Red Neck” eggs with fried green tomatoes and Hollandaise.

Expect a crowd at The Joint, the popular barbecue lunch and dinner spot where lines can snake out the door along with whiffs of smoky, porky goodness. Dig into platters of burnt brisket ends, ribs slathered in house-made vinegar-based sauce—and heck, why not top that dinner salad with more meat?

Pair craft beer with Chef Anh Luu’s trademark Viet-Cajun cuisine at Bywater Brew Pub, where even the gumbo delivers a hint of her family’s homeland, with flavor notes of fish sauce, lemon grass, and ginger.

For a date night, Bywater American Bistro is a must. At the stylish bistro, Chef Nina Compton brings the likes of rabbit curry, charcuterie, fresh pasta, and classic cocktails to a former rice mill by the railroad tracks.

On St. Claude Avenue, Saint-Germain offers a modern take on French cuisine. One side of the double shotgun is a reservation-only sixteen-seat bistro with a chef’s tasting menu; the other is devoted to the wine bar and small plates—which you can also enjoy on the lush backyard patio.

Located in a circa-1884 Italianate manse, The Country Club is another neighborhood gem worth discovering. Executive Chef Chris Barbato (formerly of Commander's Palace) energizes the locally-inspired menu, with its nod to Italian French and Creole-Southern heritages. Try barbecue shrimp and grits, truffled mac and cheese, jumbo sea scallops, and debris and eggs.

For After Dinner

Potent cocktails flow at bar rooms all over the Bywater. Order one at Bud Rip’s, an old head bar turned hipster hangout that draws pool players, neighbors and their dogs, and the occasional DJ.

It’s easy to fall off the radar at one or all three of the dive bars that form a veritable Bermuda triangle of taverns within stumbling distance between Dauphine and Burgundy streets. It’s cash only at Vaughan’s, where drinks are strong and cheap, and Cory Henry and the Treme Funktet play late night on Thursdays. There’s a robust music program around the corner at B.J.’s, which also offers ample outside seating. At J&J’s, conversation is always lively and there’s a resident cat named Cheddar Bob, who has his own costume closet.

T. Cole Newton, the cocktail guru who opened Twelve Mile Limit in Mid-City, is the man behind The Domino, a casual dive with terrific drinks on St. Claude. Stocked with games (yes, including dominoes) this chill spot also features a rotating menu of trivia and live music.

For wine by the bottle or glass and one of the best cheese plates in town, head to Bacchanal on Poland, beloved for the festive yard party out back, with live music most days starting around noon—expect anything from gypsy swing to jazz. You are right next to the train tracks here, so expect some locomotion beyond what might happen on the grassy dance floor. Across the street, Bar Redux serves good bar food late and offers a variety of entertainment, from burlesque to live music, outside in the tiny courtyard.

Strolling About

You can’t get the measure of a place without a walkabout. A pub crawl is one way to see it all, while staying well lubricated. Or just wander the Bywater’s streets to stumble upon historic markers, quirky street art and oddball shops like Tiger Rag Vintage, where vintage duds keep company with a resident luthier and his stringed instruments.

Cross the curved rusted rainbow bridge at Piety Street to Crescent Park for a 1.5 mile stretch ideal for walking and biking—with great views of the river to boot. You’ll end up on the edge of the Quarter at the French Market.

Wandering the neighborhood, you’ll undoubtedly come across the stop-you-in-your-tracks murals by artist Brandon “BMike” Odums. On Royal Street, you can immerse yourself in his work at Studio BE, a 35,000 sq. ft. warehouse where the artist works his magic, usually using spray paint to create brightly colored, wall-sized works that depict historical figures, contemporary creatives, and everyday people. Be sure to walk across the tracks where five blocks of Press Street are called Homer Plessy Way. A plaque tells the story of Plessy, who challenged a segregationist law in Louisiana in the late 19th century.

On Chartres, tour Dr. Bob’s art studio, a place for Be Nice or Leave! signs and large folk art Louisiana landscapes by the famously cranky artist. His work is also all over Elizabeth’s.  JAMNola is an immersive series of seventeen exhibits that showcases the iconic art, music, food and theatrics of the city through the eyes of more than thirty local artists.

[Read more about JAMNola in this story from our July 2020 issue.]

And all this is just the tip of the Bywater iceberg. What about Chance in Hell Snoballs, Pizza Delicious, Piety Market at Beanlandia, pop up street parades…? You’ll just have to come see for yourself.