Alexandra Kennon
Basel's Market is set to open a location in St. Francisville this March.
We're excited to be reviving an old Country Roads tradition, Soupçon—a column of briefs noting some of the latest developments in the local food scene. Know some food news we need to be on top of? Let us know at editor@countryroadsmag.com.
Introducing . . . BABS
In perhaps one of the quickest turnovers in New Orleans dining history, Chef Nina Compton's beloved Bywater American Bistro officially entered a new era this past January after a three-week hiatus in service, re-emerging as the revamped BABS. The restaurant's aesthetic reincarnation lays a rustic elegant flair over the industrial-chic space of the Rice Mill Lofts. And while many of Compton's best-loved dishes survived the transition (Wagyu beef lasagna, for instance), she's leaning into her Italian training for this new menu—presenting guests with an exciting selection of pasta-forward comfort food, prepared with her signature touch of elevation. Think carbonara with andouille and truffles, arancini with caviar and blackened octopus, covered in a sweet potato coconut pureé. Located at 2900 Chartres, BABS is open for dinner Wednesday–Sunday with seatings from 5 pm–10 pm. babs-nola.com.
Regional Chefs Clean Up at the James Beard Awards
We in the South are well aware year-round that we are blessed with some of the best chefs and restaurants in the country—but when the James Beard Award semifinalists are announced at the end of January, we get the validating reminder that taste making gourmands across the nation tend to agree.
This year, New Orleans was represented with five semifinalists in the Best Chef: South category: Melissa Araujo of Alma Café, Amarys and Jordan Herndon at Palm and Pine, Sophina Uong of Mister Mao, Arvinder Vilkhu at Saffron, and Marlon “Chicken” Williams of Chicken’s Kitchen in Gretna.
Shreveport's Hardette Harris also earned a semifinalist position with her takeout/catering business Us Up North, and Jackson, Mississippi's Hunter Evans of Elvie’s claimed a spot on the list, as well.
[Read our stories about Us Up North and Elvie's here.]
Louisiana and Mississippi chefs made appearances in other major categories, too. Jewel of the South in New Orleans is up for Outstanding Bar; while French Quarter grande dame Arnaud’s is in the running for Outstanding Hospitality. Chef Serigne Mbaye’s Senegalese restaurant Dakar NOLA is on the list for Best New Restaurant, and Robert LeBlanc of LeBlanc + Smith—who owns Sylvain, The Chloe, and The Will & the Way—is up for Outstanding Restaurateur. Vestige, our 2020 Small Town Chefs winner Alex Perry’s restaurant in Ocean Springs, is a semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurant.
[Read our stories about Dakar NOLA and Vestige, here.]
The official nominees will be announced on April 3, and the winners will be announced at the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards Ceremony at the Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 10. jamesbeard.org.
Basel’s Market opens in St. Francisville
Kalyn Lindsly Anderson’s fresh-forward restaurant Basel’s Market has plans for a grand opening on Commerce Street on March 8. Anderson grew up immersed in the world of food, as her family owned and operated beloved Baton Rouge grocery store Calvin’s Bocage Market. Her concept Basel's Market, named for her Australian Shepherd, started as a food truck, later opening as a brick and mortar on Highland Road in Baton Rouge.
When it came time to change locations, Anderson struggled to find a new home for the restaurant in Baton Rouge that captured the cottage-y, homespun feel she had cultivated in the Highland Road spot. Thus, she landed in St. Francisville—quickly discovering the small-town charm that continues to delight visitors and locals, and realizing it suited her business and family perfectly. The menu at Basel’s offers gourmet sandwiches, salads, dips, and other health-conscious staples in a bright, airy space decorated with vintage touches (like a wall containing Anderson’s personal collection of decorative plates).
Basel’s Market in the Country will hold its Grand Opening on March 8. Hours are Tuesday–Saturday from 8 am–4 pm. facebook.com/baselsmarket.
Chef Cory Bahr Does Sushi
Chef and restaurateur Cory Bahr, who won the Food Network show Chopped in 2012, has announced his next venture: a high-end sushi bar and omakase restaurant called Sushi Koko. Opening in a Monroe strip mall across the street from Bahr’s flagship restaurant, Parish, Sushi Koko’s kitchen and sushi bar will be helmed by Head Chef Shuji Hirose, who is originally from Kyoto and previously made sushi for a Michelin-starred restaurant. Avoiding the kind of gimmicky, deep-fried specialty rolls popular in American sushi restaurants, Bahr says Sushi Koko will offer a legitimate omakase (chef-curated) experience, live-fire yakitori cooking, and fresh Gulf seafood alongside specialty ingredients (like A5 beef) flown in from Japan twice weekly. Learn more from the announcement by Chris Jay at stuffedandbusted.com.
[Read Chris Jay's July 2022 profile on Chef Cory Bahr, here.]
