Mississippi is known for everything from Southern comfort food (soul food) to fresh gulf seafood and barbecue. Increasingly, Mississippi chefs are embracing farm-to-table, seasonal ingredients, and creative menu items at their restaurants. Chefs are embracing the recipes passed down by their elders while also taking inspiration from global cuisines to create a bountiful spread of healthful, innovative, and—yes—traditional menus. Nowhere is this shift more concentrated than the state's Capital City. Embark on a food tour of the “City with Soul” and explore the varieties of culinary selections.
Dishes like bouillabaisse with Gulf Coast seafood and duck confit cassoulet bring old-world Europe to modern Mississippi at Elvie’s. Helmed by Chef Hunter Evans, who named the restaurant after his grandmother, the rapidly-rotating menu is a homage to time spent with her in New Orleans, as well as travels throughout Europe and in New York. In spite of the restaurant’s global appeal, however, Evans sources his ingredients from Mississippi purveyors. The Jackson native serves seasonal fare that highlights Southern food growers and emphasizes sourcing the freshest ingredients possible based on seasonality. Located in Jackson’s historic Belhaven neighborhood, the cozy upscale joint offers seven-course tasting menus, in addition to the restaurant's standard "day and night" menus. From fisherman and oyster farmers in the Gulf, to organic produce and sustainably raised animals, Elvie's provides a farm-to-table experience reminiscent of French café culture.
At first glance, there’s nothing especially remarkable about the Big Apple Inn, but its walls have witnessed more history than your average diner. Located on the outskirts of downtown Jackson on historic Farish Street, part of what was once a thriving African-American neighborhood, fourth generation owner Geno Lee says the restaurant traces its roots back to BLANK. As documented by the Southern Foodways Alliance, Lee’s great-grandfather Juan “Big John” Mora arrived in the area from Mexico in the 1930s, launching his business with a tamale cart before opening his first brick-and-mortar in 1939—just across the street from the current location, which opened in 1952. He named the restaurant after his favorite swing dance, the Big Apple, and added hot dogs, bologna sandwiches, hamburgers, and “smokes”—buns filled with ground smoked hot sausage—to the menu. the origin of the restaurant’s unusual but beloved pig-ear sandwiches. Soon after opening the restaurant, Mora was offered a box of floppy, rubbery pig ears, destined for the trash heap, by his regular butcher. After experimenting with deep-frying, baking, and simmering, he came up with a method to make them tender as thick slices of ham: boiling for two days. Their oval shape made them perfect for sandwiches. The menu hasn’t changed since then, and the Big Apple Inn is still one of the few places in Jackson to serve hot tamales, a nod to the family’s Mexican heritage. But the pig ears—now tenderized via the more streamlined method of pressure-cooking for two hours—are the most popular menu item. Each ear is slapped into a slider bun; slathered with mustard, slaw, and homemade chili sauce; and priced at $1.10 apiece
During the Civil Rights Movement, the Big Apple Inn was frequented by historic figures including Medgar Evers, who had an office above the restaurant, and Fannie Lou Hamer. Leaders and activists were known to use the eatery as a gathering space to discuss strategy and planned protests, including the 1961 Freedom Rides. Big Apple Inn remains an understated, potent reminder of the street’s rich heritage.
For a guide to all of the restaurants and culinary offerings in Mississippi, go to visitmississippi.org/flavors.
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