Gary Michael Smith
The Delacroix Lodge Main Cabin
In 2018 I attended the screening of a documentary by three Canadian filmmakers titled Rodents of Unusual Size at the Zeitgeist Multi-Disciplinary Arts Center in New Orleans. The film featured the lives of the hunters and fishers of Delacroix, Louisiana. A family of four sitting in front of me seemed familiar not only with this place, but with those on the screen as they frequently leaned toward one another, whispering and pointing.
After the film ended and we filed out of the theater, I asked them if they knew someone in the movie. “Pretty much everyone,” the father answered. He asked if I’d ever been there, and when I said I had not, he strongly suggested that I visit. A day months later, the air was cool and the skies sunny—perfect for an hour-long road trip.
As soon as I passed through the monolithic flood protection wall and crossed the intersection of LA 46/625 Florissant Highway and LA 300 Delacroix Highway, I was mesmerized by the single lane roadway, which was bordered by a waterway alive with pelicans, seagulls, and teal ducks. I’ve returned a handful of times to share the enchanting experience with friends, and sometimes alone just for the meditative solitude of the area.. This strip of sandy meander belt, peacefully positioned on the Mississippi River Delta, was first settled by Canary Islanders in 1783. Originally named “La Isla” (The Island), in 1894 it was renamed “L'île de la Croix” after its landowner, the Countess Pauline Stéphanie de Livaudais du Suan de la Croix.
In addition to the charm and intrigue of the historic unincorporated fishing villages in this part of the region, the lodges, cabins, marinas, and RV parks reveal its status as an unrivaled spot for sportsmen.
In Louisiana, the word “camp” often leads to thoughts of no-frills plywood structures that serve hunters’ and fishers’ bare essential needs. But here in St. Bernard Parish, the structures along the water are more akin to “lodges,” tastefully adorned and functionally furnished—more glamping than camping.
The lodges on LA 300, known as Delacroix Highway—are a mere two hours from Baton Rouge and just under an hour from New Orleans. Once past Chalmette, which is the nearest town for groceries, the highway weaves through the pastoral area known as Violet, originally part of Livaudais Plantation. After traversing fields of green, you’ll exit the security of massive steel and concrete flood gates, reminding you that evacuation is mandatory when storms threaten.
Pelicans Roost Resort
Gary Michael Smith
Pelicans Roost Resort is one of the higher-end options for luxury hunting and fishing experiences in Delacroix.
Moments after crossing the Florissant Highway intersection, you’re flanked on the right by the shimmering waters of Bayou Terre aux Boeufs, with bulkhead rocks bordering much of the roadside, and intriguing wilderness on the other, which separates you from Grand Lagoon. Nestled on the bucolic bayou is the pearly-white floating lodge, Pelicans Roost Resort—an all-inclusive luxury hunting and fishing experience placidly positioned in mesmerizing marsh country. Several 400-square foot Sportsman cabins are huddled in a wooded clearing across the street, which are used to house everyone from on-demand chefs and staff to out-of-town guests who want the independence to cook for themselves.
Although technically the lodge (which houses up to twelve people on its own) is a barge, I easily forgot this even after stepping across the small gangplank. Steward Chad Niell, who bought Pelicans Roost Resort in April 2023, told me there are three patios, and he and I lounge on one of them in gothic chairs around a massive coffee table as the occasional pair of teal leisurely glide by. The roadway had so little traffic that we were able to hear fish splashing about looking for treats. As we relaxed comfortably under the gentle breeze of several fans, the Jonesboro, Arkansas native explained what first attracted him to the Delacroix community. He is clean-cut, yet outdoorsy, with a competent demeanor, a relaxed sparkle of confidence in his eyes, and a passion in his voice for his new project.
“I used to come here often and found it easy to love the area,” he explained. When property became available, he jumped at the chance to spend more time in Delacroix. He pointed out that the full kitchen in the lodge is staffed by chefs as needed, and provides gourmet cuisine for guests in the highly-polished, deep-toned wooden dining area, which seats twelve on glossy antique Chippendale chairs around a custom thirteen-foot sinker cypress table, all a few steps from a full bar.
The Delacroix Lodge
Gary Michael Smith
The boat slips at Delacroix Lodge.
Further down the single-lane, crab trap-lined road, The Delacroix Lodge sign hangs mysteriously from a tiny, single-room hut, which I later learned is the lodge’s office. Adjacent are numerous boat slips that welcome fishers to a vast covered area with a handful of well-spaced picnic tables interspersed with hanging porch swings and some fish cleaning stations.
Leah Melerine, with a mane of curly red hair, is daughter-in-law to one of the owners, and was my guide through a newer and an older cabin—two of the twelve red, beige, and green cottages. Afterwards, we climbed the thirty or so steps to the elevated man house, which can be rented to large groups. Both sets of cabins sleep up to five; the six “Standard” cabins come with uncovered boat docks and wet slips, and the six "Deluxe" cabins include covered wet slips.
[Read Gary Michael Smith's story about the origins of the Jambalaya Writers Conference, here.]
Owners Brandon and Claude Jr. Melerine’s family can be traced back to Delacroix for generations, and Brandon told me the idea for the business came from his father, Claude Sr. “After seeing some small cabins for rent along a canal in Mississippi,” Melerine recalled, “he thought that would be great in Delacroix.” He remembers his father suggesting, “We could build them on a frame with wheels so they can be towed out for storms.”
“What’s neat about renting a cabin with a boat slip is that it’s like having your own camp, without the responsibilities of owning it,” Melerine noted. He can also recommend an extensive list of professionals to guide visitors through marsh tours, alligator hunts, and inland saltwater and fly-fishing excursions.
The Drake Lodge
Gary Michael Smith
Drake Lodge in Shell Beach is owned and hosted by charter fishing guide, Captain Jimmy Corley—who has lived in the area all his life.
After absorbing the magic of L'île de la Croix, the Drake Lodge is in the next village of Yscloskey, locally known as Shell Beach—another entrancing fishing community founded by Isleño hunters, trappers, and fisherman after the Civil War. To get there, head north on LA-300 until reaching Florissant Highway, take a right, and drive east a few miles before arriving at the historic wheel and cable lift bridge crossing the picturesque Bayou la Loutre.
Then, turn left onto Hopedale Highway and head back a hundred yards to Yscloskey Highway. When you take a right, you’ll see the single-family five-columned olive and beige lodge, which accommodates up to six people at a time.
“I’m from a family of commercial fishers," said owner and lifelong Shell Beach resident Captain Jimmy Corley, who started the business in 2008. “I’ve always had a passion for the outdoors.”
The Drake provides guests with a large double driveway for vehicles and boats. Up the sturdy steps and across walkways commensurate with most structures here, guests are embraced by the Southern veranda overlooking the bayou, with a side gallery providing captivating views of the marsh. A screened recreation/dining area is located on the first level, and above that is a sizable wood-, feather-, and leather-themed living room, a dining area, and a full kitchen. Fish cleaning stations are located in “Blackie” Campos Marina—and as indicated in his title, Captain Corley is an experienced charter fishing guide.
Reel Excitement Lodge
Up the road toward Shell Beach is Reel Excitement Lodge—an ocean blue four bedroom, four bath resort that sleeps up to twenty-four. Owner Captain Jonathan Sanchez, an experienced charter fishing guide, says “I focus primarily on fishing, since duck hunting is nothing like it used to be.” He added, “You might find some dos gris and teal, but mallards have been gone for ten years or more.” Nonetheless, he’ll take you to the best fishing spots in the area, and can provide the necessary accommodations for a couple dozen of your closest friends.
Gary Michael Smith
Pelicans roosting in Delacroix.
Pelican Perch Lodge
The last stop on LA-46 at Shell Beach is Pelican Perch Lodge. Safely and securely mounted on pilings and steel girders that bring to mind iconic images of Empire State Building construction, the simple outside design masks an interior that leans into the “glam” of glamping, more closely resembling a home in a gated community than a camp. Owners Margaret and Bradley McCoy were away during my visit, but remotely unlocked the doors so I could tour their beautiful home away from home.
The McCoys’ lavish resort has four bedrooms with fifteen beds total and three bathrooms overlooking a tributary of Bayou Yscloskey, which leads into Lake Borgne. The floor plan includes not one but two living rooms—one with an indulgently cushy sectional sofa, and the other a comfy three-seat overstuffed couch and four reclining captain chairs. Beyond is a fully furnished kitchen with four-seat wet island, dining table, and an exit leading to a side gallery balcony.
[Reads about Kristy Christiansen's jaunt to the Bayou Barataria town to Jean Lafitte here.]
“We also have a houseboat that we floated down the Mississippi River from Minnesota to Shell Beach,” Margaret said. The houseboat has a more intimate layout, with one bed on an upper deck and two more on the lower level. “We hope to have it available as a rental in the future,” Bradley added.
Bradley has hunted ducks in Shell Beach since 2012, and, wanting to spend more time there, the couple bought the houseboat in 2020, intending to use it as a camp. Enamored by the area, they pooled their real estate and hospitality backgrounds, and sold their house in New Orleans to fund their Shell Beach projects. Such endeavors include building an RV park in 2021, buying the lodge in 2022, and then two campers, which can accommodate four guests each.
Patriot Lodge
Just southeast of Shell Beach is the Patriot Lodge, which held its grand opening in late June 2023. Take LA-46 from Pelican Perch southwest to LA-624 and head southeast to Hopedale—another of the fishing communities established by Isleños fishers and trappers following the Civil War. Imagine you’re a couple centuries in the past with a screened porch, veranda, and various decks with Adirondack and rocking chairs, and large hammocks. The five-bedroom, four-bath lodge sleeps from nineteen to twenty-six depending on if you want your own bed or are willing to cozy up on double and queen beds.
Captivated by these communities as I’ve become, visions of the waterways, wildlife, and landscape occupy my dreams. Wherever you’re from, it’s worth the trip to visit.
