The weekend-long festivities of Vernon Parish’s annual MayFest celebration definitely represent a feast for the senses, but be sure to take a moment to slow down and appreciate where you are, too. In addition to the live music, arts displays, and memorable food—the festival that takes over the Vernon Parish seat serves as a showcase for historic downtown Leesville, too.
Exploring Historic Downtown Leesville
The charming downtown district has been recognized by the National Register of Historic Places for its fascinating, many-layered history. The region surrounding Leesville has been the site of major cotton plantations, served as a hub for the Louisiana lumber industry, and since 1941 has played host to the United States Army’s enormous Fort Johnson (formerly Fort Polk) military training camp.
Vernon Parish Courthouse, photo courtesy of Rickie Smith
You couldn’t ignore this history if you tried, with the grandiosity of the Vernon Parish Courthouse anchoring the downtown area. The circa-1910 Classical Revival structure is the only example of Beaux-Arts architecture in the parish, and is the town’s centerpiece. Peek inside to see the original mosaic tiling and spiral staircase. This courthouse is Vernon Parish’s third since its founding in 1871, and stands on the original property donated by plantation owner Dr. Edmund Ellison Smart.
Architectural Treasures and Landmarks
You’ll find Smart’s house still standing on the outskirts of the downtown district on the corner of Lula and First Streets. Built in 1855, this is the oldest building in Leesville, and an example of the Southern Planter architectural style. The private residence has been completely restored by James and Mary Gaye Turner (Fun fact: Mary Gaye is the daughter of famous Louisiana photographer Fonville Winans, who many believe took his very first photograph in Vernon Parish.)
Smart's House, photo courtesy of Rickie Smith
Other architectural remnants of Leesville’s early history include the Vernon Bank, which was established in 1899 as the parish’s first bank. The current building was constructed in 1907 as the first brick commercial building on the street. Just a few blocks down Third, the Lyons building was built the same year in an iconic Italianate style and is best remembered as the home of the “Happy Hour Café” and Lenahan’s Department Store. 1907 was also the year that the city’s two main hotels were built, the currently-being-renovated National Hotel and the Leesville Hotel—which has hosted the likes of WWII Generals George S. Patton and Douglass MacArthur, not to mention Bonnie and Clyde.
Good Eats in Historic Surroundings
At the north end of Third, in addition to the circa-1915 Dreamland Theatre building, you’ll find Joe Redd’s Coffee House. Stop in for a charcuterie cone or espresso affogato, and imagine the space as it was almost a century ago as the Red Hound Bar—a watering hole for soldiers training for the historic Louisiana Maneuvers at Camp Polk, which would later become the U.S. Army’s Fort Polk training facility, now known as Fort Johnson. Famous patrons have included Generals Patton, Omar Bradley, and Marc Clark.
Another example of a historic haunt made over awaits at Brenda’s Kitchen, where Rico and Brenda Sanchez serve up authentic Puerto Rican empanadas and carne frita in the old circa-1922 Leesville Sandwich Shop, which still boasts its original signage out front.
Such infusions of modern life into the historic building stock of downtown Leesville are abundant throughout the Main Street District—which is currently undergoing an era of revitalization. So while enjoying the festivities of MayFest, leave time for wandering through the parish seat’s many local shops, boutiques, and businesses that make up the historic district—representing the future of Louisiana’s vibrant “No Man’s Land” communities.
