Photos by Lucie Monk Carter
“Beignets for Santa Claus!” called a voice from the open-air kitchen. Customers nestled around small bistro tables in the brightly lit dining room did not blink an eye as a plump man wearing a red shirt and sporting a white beard down to his belly walked up to retrieve two plates bearing large pillows of fried dough buried in powdered sugar. “You can’t get these in Texas,” he said.
Diners carried on their leisurely conversations, greeting one another as they walked through the door. This was just a normal exchange at Coffee Call, the popular Baton Rouge coffee shop where college students, business people, retirees, and yes, Santa Claus, all happily commingle.
Patrons frequent the local café for the fellowship as much as the food, with many people visiting on a daily basis. Walking into the vivid blue-and-white dining room feels like entering a cocktail party where people mill around, smiling and waving across the room. With ‘round-the-clock weekend hours, it has always been popular with the late-night crowd; but the nearly forty-year-old Baton Rouge institution caters to a diverse group of people, depending on the time of day. “Just like Cheers, you walk in here and you know somebody. You may not know their name, but you know them. You get to know people so well that when they pass, you go to the funeral,” said Lionel Hotstream, who visits the coffee shop with his wife Lynne daily—sometimes two or three times a day.
John Cannatella has owned and operated the local restaurant for the last fourteen years, taking over for his father Vince who opened the beloved shop in 1976 in its original location, where the neighboring Walmart now sits. He credits his business to a group of dedicated customers who come for the house-roasted coffee, beignets, and the tasty and economical lunch menu. It is very much a family affair. “We’ve been roasting our own coffee for twenty-five years now. I am a third-generation coffee roaster. My dad taught me, and five or six years ago, I taught my niece Brandi who now works as a manager,” said Cannatella.
Although best known for its signature café au lait and beignets, Coffee Call also serves a hearty lunch crowd Monday through Friday, specializing in homemade soups, sandwiches, and salads. For under ten bucks, you can select two of the three items along with an iced tea or small coffee. “Everybody thinks that they know the best little secret in town. We’ve got some great, loyal customers that keep coming back, so we actually don’t do a lot of advertising, which is why a lot of people don’t know we have lunch,” said Cannatella.
The ordering process might be a bit daunting for newbies, but it’s quite simple. Your path from the front door to the line makes an opportune pass by the soup-and-salad bar—the better to peruse the day’s selections. If a poboy is on your order, stop by the counter tucked in the back left corner and fill out the lunch form with your sandwich selection. Then make your way through the line, picking up a glass of iced tea or mug of coffee before reaching the cashier.
The all-you-can-eat soup bar features a rotating selection of four to five large pots of piping hot soups and a heaping pile of toasted croutons perfect for soaking up the homemade concoctions. Each day offers a good mix of broth- and cream-based soups, with a vegetarian option available. “Thursday is our most popular day. People love the chicken and sausage gumbo, and the chili is very popular,” Cannatella said. The gourmet salad bar provides a generous variety of fresh toppings along with homemade potato salad, tuna noodle salad, and a choice of five dressings. Fresh fruit and cottage cheese are always present, providing a light bite to finish your meal.
If you opt for the sandwich combo, you can choose from seven “mini” poboys made with roast beef, turkey, or ham, all large enough to call into question the accuracy of “mini.” Michelle Miles, who has been making sandwiches at Coffee Call for the last thirty-five years, reported that the dressed French dip is a crowd favorite. The freshly toasted bread, piled high with roast beef, creamy mayo, tomatoes, and lettuce, soaks up the savory au jus dipping sauce. “I tell people the sandwiches are so good because I make them with a lot of love. When you find a good relationship, you stick with it. That’s what it is for me. I get to know the customers, and they keep coming back,” said Miles.
Although employee longevity is considered rare at many businesses, it is not uncommon at this family-oriented establishment. “I was just at the hospital and the nursing home visiting two former employees, both who worked here for fifteen-plus years. Eddie D., who works on weekends, has been with us for twenty-five to thirty years. Everybody knows Eddie. He has a big ‘ole belly; he’s very jolly, and he knows all of the customer’s names. He is a real asset to our company,” said Cannatella.
You can feel the camaraderie among both the employees and the customers, laughing and joking around with each other. “This is my home away from home,” said Miles. “Once we take care of [our customers], they are going to tell someone else.”
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Coffee Call 3132 College Drive Baton Rouge, La. (225) 925-9493
