Photo by Brenda Maitland
A legendary politician inspires a legendary dining experience.
Although a larger-than-life monument on the State Capitol grounds in Baton Rouge above his final resting place memorializes the late Louisiana governor and U.S. senator, Huey P. Long’s spirit appears to be alive and thriving in New Orleans. Sporting the nickname of the legendary politician, Kingfish Kitchen & Cocktails opened four months ago at 337 Chartres at the corner of Conti Street in the French Quarter.
Along with fiery oratory and political posturing, Long, without question, loved to have a good time. It’s been said that when Long was elected governor he extended, in a straight line, the ongoing construction of Highway 61 from Baton Rouge directly to the rear entrance of New Orleans’ Roosevelt Hotel so he could arrive at his favorite watering hole, the hotel’s famous Sazerac Bar, in time for cocktail hour. He also preferred to enjoy Louisiana cuisine and cocktails amongst family, friends, and associates. At Kingfish Kitchen & Cocktails, the atmosphere evokes the kind of social setting Long would have enjoyed.
Owned and operated by Creole Cuisine Restaurant Concepts, which owns seven other more casual French Quarter bars and eateries, the Kingfish represents the company’s foray into upscale dining.
Trent Verges, Creole Cuisine’s marketing director, explained, “We were looking for a new concept for this property. We knew we wanted a chef-driven restaurant.
“We had a competition among our general managers to come up with the best concept, and one manager suggested a tribute to Huey Long, the Kingfish.”
The idea evidently struck a chord. The management sought out and attracted superb talent in the kitchen, behind the bar, and on the floor to carry out the concept,
“We reached out to interior designer Brian Bockman,” said Verges, “who, after much research, presented his design plan to the corporation, complete with historical, thematic touches, and period surroundings reflecting Huey’s era.
“We wanted to keep it simple, yet retain the sophistication that cocktails symbolized in the Long era,” he added. “We felt something was needed to complete the retro concept, so we added movies from the ‘30s and the full-sized grand piano at the front door.”
Verges explained that the restaurant name, Kingfish Kitchen & Cocktails, reflects both the simplicity and sophistication of its cuisine.
The team also added the tag, “Savour, Sip, Social,” to characterize Kingfish as an inviting, comfortable setting to socialize and share music, drinks, films, food, and fun with friends. General Manager Shad Stearns, who has served in the same capacity at other Creole Cuisine restaurants, directs a team of managers and associates that makes every visitor feel, as Huey might suggest, like a king…or queen.
Nationally recognized mixologist, historian, and fourth generation New Orleans bartender Chris McMillian heads the bar program at Kingfish with a capable crew of experienced barmen for support.
Many of the city’s best-known drinks such as the Sazerac, Pimm’s Cup, Vieux Carre, Brandy Milk Punch, and Absinthe Suissesse are noted on the Kingfish Sip List as are a slew of other choices. In addition, nearly two-dozen brews and more than sixty wines (thirty of which are offered by the glass) are also available.
“Along with the New Orleans classics, we are offering a selection of contemporary drinks and original cocktails,” said McMillian, a founder of the Museum of the American Cocktail, located in New Orleans.
Greg Sonnier, a 2005 James Beard nominee for Best Chef Southeast and a 1994 Food & Wine Ten Best New American Chefs recipient (among many other accolades) has stepped energetically into the executive chef role.
When Sonnier was approached, he was excited about starting a new restaurant from the very beginning. “The idea of creating a menu with New Orleans-style food, perhaps reinventing some tasty dishes from Gabrielle [his highly lauded restaurant], was so appealing,” he said.
Sonnier loved Kingfish’s French Quarter location since it was just steps away from where his cooking career really began, at K-Paul’s with renowned Chef Paul Prudhomme, and the place where he met his wife, Mary, who was also a cook there.
Although born in New Orleans, both of Sonnier’s parents were rooted in Cajun country. His mother’s family lived in New Iberia and his father’s in Scott, so Greg spent many summers and holidays visiting with both sets of grandparents in Acadiana.
Sonnier reveres his Cajun heritage. After college he enrolled in Delgado’s culinary program. K-Paul’s had recently opened, and Prudhomme hired the young neophyte as an apprentice.
“It was such a great learning experience,” he said. “Chef Paul was making everything from scratch and changing the menu daily.”
Sonnier travelled with Prudhomme, cooking for eight thousand people at a presidential inauguration ball; opening Prudhomme’s one-summer-only New York outpost at 77th Street and Columbus Avenue in New York City, essentially placing Cajun cuisine in the forefront of desired dining experiences across America. “[Chef Prudhomme] was a celebrity, and it was such a fun time,” recalled Sonnier.
Eventually, the Sonniers found the place on Esplanade Avenue —named for their daughter, Gabrielle—that would become one of the top eateries in the city, attaining national prominence over the next thirteen years until Katrina.
The Sonniers then bought and operated the Uptowner Reception Hall where the couple hosted numerous parties, dinners, and other functions. Sonnier also joined the Windsor Court as executive chef for a stint several years ago, but felt that hotel cooking and catering were not necessarily his forté.
At Kingfish, Sonnier has the leeway to cook the kinds of foods he loves; and he enjoys working with such a conscientious staff. While the menu features Sonnier’s creativity with many local ingredients and preparations, it presents a broad base of choices, flavors, and original creations. The menu is separated into sections called “lil’eats,” “big eats,” “sides,” and ”sweet eats.”
Beginning with some “big eat” treats, a place called Kingfish better have a pretty good offering for their signature dish; Chef Sonnier’s “ ‘Every Man A King’ Fish” fulfills that promise.
An exquisite slab of fresh-seared Gulf pompano is served to patrons aboard a Himalayan salt block, which can withstand temperatures of up to 700° F. Sliced lemons and collard greens nestle under the fish, which is topped with roasted pecan butter and red onion marmalade.
The seafood cassoulet is another favorite. Taking a cue from southwestern France, Sonnier plumbs sources in and around the Gulf to create this dish. Sautéed shrimp, fish, crawfish, and alligator sausage mingle with flavorful, saucy flageolets and a light cheese crust resulting in a super local specialty.
Another stunning dish, duck à la Saulnier, begins with a crab- boiled boneless duck, which is then slow-roasted and served over ramen noodles with roasted peppers, mushrooms, preserved lemon sauce, and garnished with duck cracklings.
Sonnier likes to have fun in the kitchen, and several dishes showcase his styling at its playful best.
“Junky chick” rotisserie combines the Cajun marinated and injected bird with a dusting of French herbes de Provence, served with Applewood smoked bacon bits, cebollitas, and smashed potatoes.
Smoked Applewood suckling pig is central to the “superette” cochon de lait, served with a crackling crusted boudin cake, collard greens, and sweet potatoes with orange sauce.
In the “lil’eats” section of the dinner menu, a dozen selections, some featuring oysters, crabmeat, shrimp, alligator and crawfish, present a variety of dishes.
Other choices include smoked rabbit gumbo, cracklins’, buffalo sliders, bacon wrapped stuffed jalapeños, tempura-fried deviled duck egg, and the always delicious house made smoked andouille served with collard greens, sassafras catsup, and lavender honey mustard.
The lunch menu showcases even more layers of Sonnier’s creative takes on Louisiana cuisine. For example: stuffed quail, duck hash with hollandaise and a fried egg, boudin-stuffed andouille in a puff pastry, Eunice stew with pork and grits, fish tacos with Napa cabbage slaw, and more.
In just a very short time, Kingfish has been warmly embraced by locals as well as visitors—a fitting tribute to Huey who would have turned 120 years old at the end of this month.
Recipes from Chef Greg Sonnier of Kingfish: BBQ Shrimp Gaufre with sweet potato spread; Caramel Apple Bread Pudding; and Roasted Quail with cornbread & pickled mirliton dressing.
Details. Details. Details. Kingfish Kitchen & Cocktails 337 Chartres Street New Orleans, La. (504) 598-5005 Open seven days; Lunch: 11 am–2:30 pm; Dinner: Sun.–Thurs. 5:30 pm–10 pm, Fri.–Sat. 5:30 pm–11 pm
