Transfixed, I stared at the map. Sprawled across the desk table in my room, it showed a satellite image of southeastern Louisiana; and studying the labyrinthine canals, bayous, lakes, and bays that comprise the southern part of the state had been a favorite pastime for the best part of a year—an eternity in the life of a twelve-year-old boy.
Next to the map, on top of an empty spool of fishing line, sat a cold cup of coffee. The time was 4 am, and I hadn’t slept; in a few hours my dad and I would be going fishing with a friend of his. When daylight finally dawned, the trip we took became the catalyst for a passion that would affect my life in profound ways in years to come.
Although I spent much of my twenties far from the water, it was inevitable that I would find my way back. When I did I had company: one late fall morning, I found myself guiding a paying customer on his first trip into the heart of the Louisiana Delta. From our perches atop ten-foot fishing kayaks, the combination of windless conditions and a silvery mist rising from the water gave the impression that our boats were suspended on a sheet of softly smoking glass. The placid scene didn’t last long. Knowing what was coming next, I beamed a Cheshire grin as my client set the hook on his first redfish. The water erupted as the big bull red turned and made a fast, violent run for deeper water. My client let out a shriek of excitement and held on for dear life as his small, light craft embarked on the quintessential “Cajun sleigh ride,” setting off across the shallow backwater pond propelled solely by fins and tail. Watching him go, I thought to myself for the umpteenth time that mine must be the perfect job.
Rivers and the inhabitants of the watery elements are made for wise men to contemplate and for fools to pass by without consideration. —Izaak Walton, The Complete Angler
The breadth of options available to the kayak-fishing enthusiast in our part of the world is substantial. At short notice and minimal expense, one can safely and effectively pursue bass, redfish, and speckled trout and have a terrific time doing so. In certain brackish locations, all three species are known to cohabitate. Throughout Louisiana and Mississippi, accessible bodies of freshwater are also close at hand; and for those wanting an introduction to kayak fishing, there is no better way to get your feet wet, so to speak, than in the pursuit of largemouth bass. Rugged, thick, unrelentingly strong and aggressive, they are in a class all their own. Given their physical characteristics and the wild beauty of the waters they inhabit, the marsh bass of South Louisiana are the epitome of what a game fish should be, and stalking them in a kayak makes for pure fishing bliss. The north shore of Lake Pontchartrain abounds with sheltered kayak-friendly waters: Bayou Lacombe, Cane Bayou, Bayou Liberty, and the waterways of Manchac Swamp are all readily accessible, and their bass populations have rebounded from the one-two punch dealt by hurricanes Katrina and Rita. Here, anglers can begin teasing out the challenges and rewards that tidal fisheries present, all while staying close to home and close to shore.
Redfish are by far the most popular species with kayak anglers across the state, and Delacroix Island is the epicenter of the sport. Vast, shallow ponds and lakes are connected through a maze of canals, forming the perfect habitat for these kings of the Delta. This section of the marsh, located a few miles southeast of New Orleans, has been receiving a healthy dose of fresh water via the Caernarvon Diversion—the manmade canal that connects the estuary directly to the Mississippi River—since 1991. The result is a healthy marsh with lots of aquatic vegetation that filters sediment normally suspended in the water, making it gin-clear in certain conditions.
Speckled trout inhabit more saline regions along our coastal bays. Their movements in brackish habitats are seasonal, but they can be found year-round in many kayak-friendly locations. Grand Isle is a very popular place to start. Since spotted seatrout—simply ‘trout’ to locals—are the most sought-after table fare in our waters, information on where to locate them and how to catch them isn’t hard to find.
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The kayak is an unassuming vessel, by its nature removing the angler from techy gadgets that seem to have made their way into most of modern fishing. But in the absence of fish-finding sonar and GPS, the angler’s instincts flourish. The experiences of navigating waterways, finding fish, and catching them all become more visceral. I liken traveling Louisiana’s waterways in a fast, loud, motorized watercraft to seeing the Grand Canyon through the window of a plane: You see the big picture, but it isn’t the same as standing at the edge of the abyss. Spend a day on the water sans internal combustion and your ears are treated to the uninhibited leitmotif of South Louisiana’s swamps and marshes. You spot fauna that would have fled at the motor’s approach, hear the splash of surfacing fish and plunging birds, and smell the rich, earthy scent of the marsh any time your paddle stirs the mud or aquatic vegetation.
Good modern kayaks are inexpensive, easily portable, free to operate, and require very little maintenance, the formula that has made kayak fishing the fastest growing segment in the recreational fishing industry. No longer are power boaters startled by the sight of a kayak in the marsh, misconstruing paddle strokes as gesticulations signaling distress. And of course, for those who prefer to get a taste before taking the plunge on the initial investment, a proliferating number of affordable guiding services offer knowledgeable guides happy to help beginners test the waters.
Keep it simple. While the array of available products might seem intimidating, I’ve found that a basic ten-foot, sit-on-top kayak (SOK) is the best place to start. Any major outdoor retailer will carry a line of entry-level kayaks that come equipped with molded-in seat, rod holders, and a bow storage hatch. Add a paddle and a dry box to keep electronics safe, and you’re ready to go. As for the fishing gear itself, two spinning rod-and-reel combos are all you’ll ever need to tackle bass, speckled trout, or redfish. Prices vary widely, but the quality of modern gear makes splurging on top-end rods and reels unnecessary.
One item that should not be skimped on is the personal flotation device, or PFD. By law you are required to have one PFD on board for each boater. It should fit well enough to be worn all day and should not impede movement. Weather can change quickly on the water, so always check the forecast. Wind and waves are easily managed on protected bodies of water; lightning, however, is not. If you can hear thunder, it’s too close. Paddle to safety immediately.
It has been observed that part of the attraction of angling is that, like mathematics, it can never be truly mastered. Every day that I spend on the water—each different from the last—proves this point. Twenty years and hundreds of paddling trips since that first fishing trip with my father, the thrill of anticipation is as strong as ever.
Where to Get Started
Cane Bayou, near Mandeville, La. This picturesque bayou empties into Lake Pontchartrain and is at its best in the spring. Upstream, Cane Bayou offers access to freshwater species, including bass and sac-au-lait, and saltwater game fish near the lake. It’s a great spot to start since it is not accessible to large boats. There is an (unmarked) boat launch on U.S. Highway 190, approximately one mile east of the entrance to Fontainebleau State Park.
Bayou Sara, Saint Francisville, La. The upper end of this Mississippi River tributary offers great spotted and white bass fishing and is at its best during the spring and fall, depending on rainfall. But avoid it after heavy rains, which will muddy the water and shut down the fishing for a few days. When the water is high, putting in is easy near the Oyster Bar, at the bottom of Ferdinand Street. When it’s low, you might be better off putting into the Mississippi at the old ferry landing, then paddling up to the mouth of the bayou a quarter mile upstream.
False River, New Roads, La. March and April bring on the spawn at this large Mississippi River oxbow lake. Big bass that have spent the winter in its depths move to the banks and spawn, making spring the time to find them shallow and hungry. Fish the sheltered canals on the north and south ends of the lake. You won’t catch huge numbers of fish, but the few will be big.
Henderson Lake near Butte La Rose, La. This shallow backwater lake between Ramah and Henderson is postcard Louisiana, where the beautiful cypress flats are also loaded with bass, bluegill, and sac-au-lait during springtime.
Resources
BCKFC.org. One of the largest kayak fishing clubs in the state. BCKFC offers information on tournaments and paddling events around Louisiana.
Kayaktrader.com. New boats, used boats, fishing boats, and play boats. Possibly the largest online selection of kayaks and kayak accessories. A great place to compare price points and read reviews.
Louisianasportsman.com. Not kayak specific; however, most of the major fishing locations are discussed in the forums. Louisiana Sportsman magazine’s website is a great go-to resource for tide info, river stages, and other information pertinent to anglers and paddlers.
Northshorefishingreport.com. If you’re planning a trip to the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain, a visit to this website is a must. Be sure to check out the “Yak Attack” column.
