Photo by Nalini Raghavan
A food-focused series on the established places around the area whose flavors and atmospheres keep us coming back for seconds (and twenty-seconds).
When visiting in New York City once, it took all of one day to perceive the classic tell of a good ethnic food joint—a line of yellow taxi cabs parked out front around meal times. There's a tell in Baton Rouge, too—not for ethnic food necessarily, but for joints that are beloved by locals for whatever reason. It's hair color. And if that fails, look for age spots.
Please don't misunderstand, this is no ageist perpetration; it just is. At Jay's Bar-B-Q the other day, a quick glance around the utilitarian dining room placed the lunchtime patrons' median age at around 50. They aren't looking for small-plates and cocktails; they only want a familiar and predictably good lunch. At some point in life, we all give in to comfort more often than not.
Honestly, the things that I look forward to at Jay's are its bracingly tart barbecue sauce and the curly fries—paired, if you will. A few pints of sauce often find their way into my freezer at home, and I'm not the only curly fry devotee—there was a gentleman at the next table who ordered just that. Myself, I tend to stick to the same, basic selection: a chopped beef poboy. I've seldom swerved from this formula but can attest that the ribs are tender.
At least I can finally claim to understand how to navigate the obvious-to-everyone-else (is it obvious to everyone else?) ordering system. For too long, I would walk in, place my order at the walk-up counter, and try to pay before sitting down. I would forget between visits that if you want to dine in, you don't have to order at the counter. Just sit down. They will come to the table and take your order. And you pay after. As per usual.
Jay's Bar-B-Q 4215 Government Street Baton Rouge, La. (225) 343-5082
