Chef Richard Markert’s restaurant Taste is just one of a handful of local businesses suffering under a misconception: that farm-to-table has happened in Baton Rouge. The ink is dry, and there’s no more for the city’s dining population to do than offer the occasional eyeroll when a menu gives way to listing local producers. Haven’t we seen this before? This farm-to-table line?
But business isn’t booming the way it should be were farm-to-table actually mainstream. In the two years since Markert became chef-owner of Taste, located just inside the Main Street Market, he’s struggled with selling his enthusiasm for the area’s bounty. And Markert has enthusiasm in spades. “I’ve learned that locally produced is the best,” said Markert of his tenure at Taste, where the vendors upon which he relies are often just outside the door at the Saturday farmers markets. “But it’s also the hardest.” Of the various strategies he’s tried in the last couple of years to justify his ongoing investment—ventures include housemade boudin, gourmet hot dogs, and elaborate plate lunches—nothing has quite swayed a majority of Taste’s weekday customer base into wanting more than a quick, cheap sandwich or salad. But Markert can’t abide by someone else’s playbook.
He admits the culture has improved in the past few years, with more diners expecting and demanding fresher ingredients. “A larger majority, for sure, and a larger vocal majority,” said Markert. “But I’m worried that it’s more of a vocal majority. They’re talking about about it more than they’re actually doing it. But that’s good! People are hearing about [farm-to-table] more. And that shifts into more people actually doing it.”
The energetic chef has his devotees, and they plan to follow him when he closes Taste and moves across town to Olive or Twist. Known for its craft cocktails and beer selection, the Perkins Road bar owned by Josh Duke and Scott Gremillion has made Markert’s commitment to Baton Rouge’s taste buds central to its upcoming expansion.
The Boo-Ray at Taste (boudin, ham, pepper jack, and pepper jelly) will be included on Chef Richard Markert's new menu at Olive or Twist.
The wall between Olive or Twist and its neighbor, Painting and Pinot, is coming down. And no, acrylics and anti-oxidants will not be dribbling into your Moscow Mules. Painting and Pinot will relocate a few spots down in the Perkins Palms development, and Olive or Twist aims to use the new breathing room that will more than double the current capacity, with a full-scale restaurant in operation.
Markert provided a peek of the menu, built in a style he refers to as "modern Louisiana kitchen": Dirty Risotto Arancini; Pork Belly and Shiitake Pasta; Andouille, Sweet Potato, & Goat Cheese Ravioli; and Boudreaux’s Peacemaker Poboy, an update on the half-oyster, half-shrimp classic that will include Markert’s very own boudin.
Favorites from Taste will have their place as well; along with the BLT (pictured above) the Boo-Ray (ham, the housemade boudin—in justifiably constant employ—smoky mayo, pepper jelly, and pepper jack) has been brought on and promoted to the Bourré PoBoy. “It’ll be spelled right this time,” laughed Markert.
The kitchen should open later this spring, he estimates; and Markert, akin to other chefs going beyond lip-service in local sourcing, hopes for even more like-minded competition down the line. “It’s a self-sustaining cycle,” said Markert. “It’ll help everybody.”
Olive or Twist is located at 7248 Perkins Road. Read our January 2016 article about the craft cocktail bar here. Taste will close at the end of February 2016.
